go to: aswelikeit.vox.com
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Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.
As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.
Beverly Hills, CA
Piccolo Paradiso *(18) !(3) $(22-70) Tel.=310-271-0300, Fax=310-271-1233 www.giacominodrago.com. 150 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, Lunch Monday-Friday, Dinner nightly.
We found this part of the Giacomino Drago dining empire (Panzanella, Il Pastaio, Il Buco Ristorante Paninoteca, Shu Sushi, Via Alloro) on our last trip to Beverly Hills and were very pleased with the ambiance, service and cuisine. The lively, contemporary decor sparks an upbeat energy to the place. We enjoyed the beet salad and the polenta with mushrooms. Terrific pastas included tagliolini with scampi and fettuccinis Bolognese and carbonara. The branzino (sea bass) and risotto with lamb chops were wonderful. We chose a young but delightful bottle of 2004 Gaja Sito Moresco Langhe at $132 (3 times retail) to complement the dinner. Corkage is a reasonable $15 if you bring your own bottle. Valet parking is $7.00.
http://aswelikeit.vox.com/
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.
As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.
San Francisco Bay Area, CA
San Francisco
Acquerello *(18.5) !(4) $(60-82) Tel.= 415-567-5432, Fax=415-567-6432, www.acquerello.com, 1722 Sacramento Street between Polk Street and Van Ness Avenue, Open Tuesday-Saturday from 5:30-10:30 PM.
An elegant setting with high quality Italian cuisine makes this our favorite destination for such fare in San Francisco. There is always a lovely central floral arrangement with romantic lighting and exceptional wine service and selection. Start with a delightfully refreshing salad of crisp greens and sweet Chioggia beets with warm, crusted Barilot cheese and toasted hazelnuts. We have difficulty choosing among the exquisite pasta preparations, which vary with the season. Perfect balances were present in the asparagus tortelloni scented with black truffles in an asparagus sauce. A fabulous rabbit-filled agnolotti was served with Taggiasca olives and prosciutto. Another favorite was the Sardinian saffron malloreddus (like a tiny pasta gnocchi) tossed with rich duck ragu. Ridged pasta with foie gras, scented with black truffles and Marsala is rich but delicious. We loved the Prosecco risotto with prawns, caviar and Venetian style (carpaccio) bay scallops on top with micro greens. The selection of Italian artisanal cheeses looked terrific, but we were too full to do anything but skip to desserts of: a toothsome huckleberry and pear tart with Italian triple creme as well as outstanding sorbets of roasted strawberry, raspberry and lemon & lime followed by addicting biscotti. Park on the street at a meter or at the reasonably priced Bank Of America parking lot across the street.
Petaluma
Cucina Paradiso *(17.5) !(3.5) $(22-55) Tel.=707-782-1130, cucinaparadisopetaluma.com, 114 Petaluma Blvd. N., Monday-Saturday: lunch=11:30-2:30, dinner= 5:00-9:00 PM, till 10=Friday & Saturday.
Our favorite local North bay Italian restaurant has moved, with its loyal clientele, from a simple store front in a shopping center to an elegant new venue in the center of town. With an attractive bar area against one wall and an open kitchen in the back, it has more than doubled its space and included a separate dining area with room for 35 people. Lots of wood and attractive wall art enhance the atmosphere. Start with a salad of organic spring mixed greens, red pears, endives, pecans and Point Reyes blue cheese. Pastas and risottos are always top notch. We loved the pappardelle con salsiccia (homemade noodles with fresh porcini mushrooms, Molinari sausage and light tomato sauce. The fine homemade ravioli was filled with fresh porcini mushrooms, parmigiano, butter, sage and light tomato sauce; though we would have preferred more substance in the filling. Risotto con granchio was fabulous: imported arborio rice with fresh crab, champagne and a touch of cream. The wine list and service are terrific, and corkage is $15 if you bring your own bottle. Free street parking is usually readily available.
Novato
Boca *(15.5) !(3)$(30-70) Tel=415-883-0901, www.bocasteak.com, 340 Ignacio Blvd. Monday-Friday lunch=11:30-2:30, Nightly dinner= 5:00-10:00 PM.
Stick to the flavorful, simply grilled steaks and you'll do just fine. Our favorites are the 8 ounce filet mignon and the ribeye. Add a simple baked potato, and you're in meat eaters' heaven. Sauteed prawns and salads are also enjoyable. Service is pleasant but inefficient.
http://aswelikeit.vox.com/
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.
As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.
San Francisco Bay Area, CA
Redwood City
Old Port Lobster Shack *(16) !(1.5) $(18-64) Tel.= 650-366-2400, Fax= 650-366-4658, http://oplobster.com/index.htm, 851 Veterans Boulevard, Open Monday-Saturday continuously from 11:30 AM till 8:30-9:00 PM, Sunday=12:00 Noon-8:00 PM.
Started by a lobster professional from Maine, the steamed 1.25 pound Maine lobster special is first rate (worthy of a *19 food rating), the best we’ve discovered locally, and a bargain at $32.75 (or $60.00 for 2). It comes with a nut cracker, lobster fork and bib. Next time we’ll bring our own special lobster scissors to facilitate dismembering. Garnishes include melted butter, fries, cole slaw and corn on the cob. Don’t bother with the surf and turf. Other pleasant courses included beer battered haddock and chips, grilled salmon, shack crab club and baked, stuffed lobster. Set in a simple storefront with unadorned wooden picnic tables, food and drinks are ordered at the front desk and brought to the table when ready by a pleasant staff, eager to please. A decent selection of appropriate wines and beers is available, though we suggest bringing your own Champagne or white Burgundy to complement the fabulous, simply steamed fresh lobsters. For a special treat, call in advance, and they can even order a 5 pounder for people who are nuts about lobster. Lots of onsite parking is available in this strip mall.
Sebastopol
Eloise *(17.5) !(3.5) $(32-55) Tel.=707-823-6300, www.restauranteloise.com, 2295 Gravenstein Highway, Lunch Monday and Wednesday-Friday= 11:30-2:30, Brunch Saturday-Sunday 10-2:30, Dinner= 5:30-10:00 PM Monday+Wednesday-Saturday, Sunday=5-9:00 PM.
The ambiance and service are that of a French country inn with food to match. They even have a few outside tables for sun lovers. A delightful but rich plate of pig trotters was drizzled with a walnut vinaigrette. Other appetizers included a super fresh green salad directly from their garden; tasty, in-season asparagus with a bit too much gribiche sauce (vinaigrette with hard boiled egg , gherkins and capers) and great texture to the ravioli with an egg yolk center and a bit too much sauce; perhaps the sauce should be placed on the side, to be used as desired by the patron. An excess of pepper marred the otherwise fabulous main courses of rabbit pappardelle and guinea hen with matzoh ball soup. The cassoulet was first rate as well. Leave room for the fine lemon curd with warm madeleines or house-made hazelnut-chocolate ice cream. Would that they bring back our favorite: lemon crepes! There is an appropriate wine list with a $15.00 corkage fee if you bring your own. Lots of onsite parking is available. A recession-special Wednesday night 3-course dinner is offered at $35.00, and corkage is waived.
Palo Alto
Il Fornaio *(14.5) !(3) $(15-41) Tel.=650-853-3888, 520 Cowper Street in the Garden Court Hotel, Mon.-Thu.= 7:00 a.m.-10:00 p.m., Fri.= 7:00 a.m.-11:00 p.m., Sat. 8:00 a.m.-11:00 p.m., Sun.= 8:00 a.m.-10:00 p.m.
This is one of the more attractive of the 20 locations in this corporate chain with lots of well spaced tables inside and out. The service is pleasant but not well informed. We enjoyed a lunch of tasty chicken salad and delicious meat lasagna with proper balances between pasta and stuffing. A mixed ice cream dessert provided the right finishing touch. A satisfying glass of 2007 ZD Napa Chardonnay ($18) was chosen from their appropriate wine list. Valet parking is available for $10.00.
Sausalito
Murray Circle *(14) !(3) $(27-60) Tel.=415-339-4750, Fax=415-339-4792 www.murraycircle.com, Cavallo Point, 602 Murray Circle, Fort Baker, Sausalito, Daily Breakfast= 7-10:00 AM, Brunch Saturday-Sunday=11:30-2:30, Lunch Monday-Friday=11:30-2:00, Dinner nightly from 5:30 PM.
Great reviews but disappointing food are what we discovered in this fabulous location on a decommissioned Army base. We figured we would give them a second try after being disappointed on our first visit. Fine natural ingredients are spoiled by “too much stuff” spoiling the natural tastes. A mediocre sweet pea gazpacho with serrano chilies and citrus ice was filled with raw instead of al dente cooked peas. A pedestrian course of Marin mussels with smoked paprika butter was served in an inappropriate vessel having no place to dispose of the shells. A fresh, pleasant day boat halibut was marred by excessive garlic on the plate. The grilled Sonoma pork chop with a detracting carrot-ginger emulsion was garnished with a fabulous textured farro risotto spoiled by its seasoning. Jersey ice cream accompanied a pleasant Boston cream pie. The wine list is amazing with an extensive list of half bottles. Corkage is $25.00 with a 2 bottle limit, though their fee will be waived for each bottle purchased. Lots of onsite parking is available.
San Francisco
Piperade *(18) !(4) $(29-61) Tel.=415-391-2555, Fax=415-391-1159, 1015 Battery at Green, Lunch= Monday-Friday 11:30-3:00, Dinner = Monday-Saturday 5:30-10:30 PM.
Gerald Hirigoyen is a chef who knows how to enhance his high quality ingredients without messing them up with unnecessary “stuff” on the plate as evidenced by delectable starters of: simply delicious cream of asparagus soup; butter lettuce and fresh herb salad; and superb cold poached foie gras with black pepper, sea salt and rhubarb-ginger compote. We loved our steamed Pacific snapper with spinach and fried garlic vinaigrette. Bluenose sea bass with wilted rapini, bacon, kumquat and meyer lemon was a beautifully balanced course. Save room for scrumptious desserts of: orange blossom beignets, warm apple tart with vanilla ice cream and cornmeal cake with strawberry-rhubarb compote and creme fraiche. The ambiance and service are reminiscent of a charming left bank restaurant in Paris. Street parking is easily available at dinner time.
http://aswelikeit.vox.com/
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.
As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.
Wine Country- Yountville, California
The French Laundry *(19.5) !(5) $(240-300 includes service) 707-944-2380 for reservations taken up to 2 months in advance. www.frenchlaundry.com. 6640 Washington St. at Creek. Lunch Fri.-Sun.11:30-1:00, Dinner 5:30-9:30 P.M. Nightly.
Having just returned from a gastronomic dining experience in Paris, we wanted a taste comparison with the pinacle of our local Michelin firmament. The essence of a Michelin 3-star restaurant dining experience is all about a place where each patron is treated like royalty and eats and drinks like a king; this definition fits the French Laundry perfectly. The hefty charge for dinner includes a plentiful, multi-course meal with lots of choices (including a tasting of vegetables in all their glory), so those people searching for a more simple experience should go elsewhere. Service is world class, beginning with their telephone personnel, front desk reception and pacing throughout the meal. One begins with a series of amuse gueules to enhance the appetite. These will frequently include some of the following: warm cheese gougeres, salmon tartare cornets, small tastes of exquisite soup combinations (perhaps green grape with garlic, cilantro and a purée of green garlic) and custard preparations (sometimes with truffles in an egg shell). At this point the actual menu courses begin to arrive. Refreshing salads might include roasted Hawaiian hearts of peach palm with green grapes, spicy pili nuts and Napa Valley verjus. Oysters and pearls show an exceptional balance between tiny oysters and oscetra caviar. A delectable sautéed Japanese blue fin tuna was served rare with a tomato compote and delicate greens from their garden. We loved the black cod with saffron foam sauce as well as the Louisiana white prawns with spaetzel and beets. These were followed by an outstanding foie gras, sautéed just right. Fortunately for us, black truffles were in season to perfume a fantastic al dente tagliatelle pasta; truffle courses incur a supplementary charge, but they are “to die for”!!! We loved the rich, sensuous courses of: quail with black truffle sauce, as well as the Elysian Fields Farm lamb with peas, morels and a bordelaise sauce. Next came the tasty cheese course followed by a ruby red grapefruit sorbet, “coffee & donuts” and a chocolate mousse with vanilla bean ice cream. We took the petits fours home to enjoy the next day. Their wine selection a nd service are world class as well. Corkage is $50.00 if you bring your own bottle. We considered the following to be a perfect wine complement to the food: start with the lovely house Champagne, followed by our own 1990 Latour Batard Montrachet and a half bottle of 1995 Chateau Rauzan Segla (Margaux). The decor of a converted manor home with delicate linens, wine friendly, elegant Riedel crystal, Bernardaud Limoges china service and Ercuis silver specially designed by Chef Thomas Keller complete the look and feel of elegance.
http://aswelikeit.vox.com/
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding beverage=$. Simple=appetizer + main course;
full= best available multi-course meal. France meal prices include tax and service.
As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.
Paris, France Dining
L’Ambroisie *(20) !(5) $(200-450) Tel.=01-4278-5145, www.ambroisie-placedesvosges.com, 9, Place des Vosges, 75004, Tuesday-Saturday: Lunch=12-1:30 PM, Dinner=8:00-9:30 PM.
We enjoyed one of the most outstanding meals in recent memory on a routine Thursday lunch service. The exquisite 17th century town house, decorated with a few large scale, stunning paintings and tapestries, is home to some of the most gracious service we’ve experienced. All table settings and linens are of the highest quality. A rouget fish amuse gueule with tapenade was wonderfully balanced. The fabulous seabass (escalopines de bar a l’eminance d’artichaut, nage reduit, caviar oscietre gold) and lobster (navarin de homard et pommes de terre de Noirmoutier au romarin) preparations were “to die for”. We followed with a double veal chop for two people (cote de veau double, coeurs de sucrine braises au jus, with delicate gnocchi); never have we had such a veal dish of pure perfection. Would that we could get such meat from our suppliers in the San Francisco Bay Area. We were too full to partake of the great looking cheese platter. Make sure to leave room for dessert; we loved the red fruit melba with chocolate cake as well as the dried rhubarb sticks with heavenly strawberry sorbet. A bottle of Brut 1er de Roederer Champagne, specially made for l’Ambroisie, ($140) was the perfect accompaniment to everything. Thanks to Michelin 3-star Chef Bernard Pacaud and his staff for maintaining such high standards over these many years. Valet parking is available.
Le Pré Catelan*(19.5) !(5) $(200-320) Tel.=01-4414-4114, fax=01-4524-4325, http://www.lenotre.fr., rte. Suresnes in the Bois de Boulogne, 75016, Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday.
This regal chateau is set in the magnificent gardens of the Bois de Boulogne and has all the accoutrements to match: from the voiturie (to park your car) to the furniture and table settings with lovely orchids and plush carpets. Michelin 3-star Chef Frédéric Anton lives up to his stars with outstanding preparations manifesting a nouvelle approach based on solid underlying principals, starting with a wonderful amuse-gueule of cream of onion with petit pois purée. A contemporary preparation of homard (lobster) Breton began with a gelée de homard au caviar d’Aquitaine, followed by pinces croustillantes (like a tempura of the legs) and a perfectly roasted body with garlic, capers and mushrooms. The turbot with almonds couldn’t have been better, and it was accompanied by a splendid, generous serving of risotto with pan roasted octopus; BRAVO!! Beautifully roasted quail with truffles and honey came with potatoes roasted in the jus and foie gras, as well as rillettes and toast. Exciting desserts included a perfect wild strawberry tartelette (sous une feuille de meringue aux amandes argentée, fine tartelette et creme vanillée, fraises des Bois juste sucrée) and a unique, marvelous apple creation (soufflée croustillante, creme glacée caramel, cidre et sucre pétillant). Even the breads and music selection were notable. From the excellent wine list, we chose a 1995 Pol Roger Blanc de blanc Champagne ($160) to complement our meal. We called on a glorious Saturday for lunch in the magnificence of the Bois de Boulogne and found that we were the only patrons in the restaurant for the first 45 minutes, after which time another couple arrived; however, the room was fully booked for the dinner service.
Guy Savoy *(19.5) !(4) $(160-370) Tel.=01-4380-4061, fax=01-4622-4309 www.guysavoy.com, 18 rue Troyon 75017, Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Friday, dinner only on Saturday.
Chef Guy Savoy’s long standing Michelin 3-star rating is certainly well deserved for his cuisine. It was nice to see this charming chef in the dining room despite his large restaurant empire. We started with a glorious preparation of artichoke and black truffle soup, layered brioche with mushrooms and truffles. Next came a masterfully executed split-portion of whole grilled sea bass with the skin, vanilla and sweet spices. We could not pass up the opportunity to try our favorite fish, young turbot on the bone with seaweed butter done for 2 people with braised potatoes, young leeks and spinach: a real winner. Desserts were a mixed bag; textures of strawberry were just okay, but rhubarb and flowers with vanilla syrup made for a terrific melange. We also enjoyed their trolley of ice creams, sorbets (especially the rhubarb), conserves, mini tarts and biscuits. A special bread cart arrives with a different bread selected by the chef for each course. We enjoyed a coupe of Billecart Salmon rosé Champagne ($32) as we studied the encyclopedic wine list to choose JN Gagnard 1er cru Chassagne Montrachet ($130) in half bottle to complement our fish courses. The decor of the room is quite modern with straight lines and many African sculpture pieces and artifacts. We found service at lunch time to be too rushed, more like a business lunch in New York than a relaxed meal in Paris. The menu has translations into English, Chinese, Japanese and Russian. Valet parking is available.
Taillevent *(19.5) !(5) $(140-420) Tel.=01-4495-1501, Fax=014225-9518, 15 rue Lamennais, 75008 Piccadilly, Mon.-Fri.=Lunch and Dinner.
Jean-Claude Vrinat, who proudly ran this establishment with an iron fist in a velvet glove for these many years, has passed away. Jean-Marie Ancher, his long time Maitre d’, has continued the high class tradition in the classic French way. The Michelin 2-star meal began with beautifully sauced asparagus de Provence with generous, scrumptious morel mushrooms. Bonbons croustillants of duck foie gras with a chestnut cappuccino was an interesting, cutting edge preparation, but a bit salty. A casserole preparation of lobster with chestnuts was amazing. Terrific veal courses included a mignon of milk fed veal with gray shallots and salsify, as well as a casserole-roasted cote de veau with morels. We loved the wild strawberry tart, but found the baba au rhum a bit alcoholic. We began with a coupe de Champagne, after which we chose a superb bottle of 1999 Volnay Santenots du Millieu, Comtes Lafon ($250)from their well chosen, fairly priced wine list. Valet parking is available.
La Table de Joel Robuchon *(17.75) !(3) $(65-235) Tel.=01-5628-1616, fax=01-5628-1678, latabledejoelrobuchon@wanadoo.fr, 16 Avenue Bugeaud, 75116, Open daily for lunch and dinner.
We have happily followed Joel Robuchon’s career and restaurants for many years and were most recently impressed with his NYC location; however, we don’t feel this Paris location merits its 2 Michelin stars for cuisine. We did enjoy the fact that they offer a “small plates” menu, so that each person can sample 3 or 4 dishes plus dessert. We enjoyed a refreshing, chilled spider crab (l’araignee de mer)in a vichyssoise preparation, as well as crab wrapped in thin turnip sheets. Chicken soup with foie gras raviolis was tasty but excessively herbaceous, and the morels with green asparagus were too salty. Langoustines en papillotes croustillantes au basilic resembled exquisite tempura prawns, and the Saint Pierre with lime was delicious. Quail with foie gras was again too salty, but the pigeon wrapped in cabbage, like a cannelloni, was delightful. A generous portion of Robuchon’s signature, overly rich but scrumptious mashed potatoes accompanied the bird courses. We certainly enjoyed the yuzu (Japanese citrus) soufflé with citrus sorbet, as well as Le Cafe Frivole (sphere of chocolate au coeur de Guanaja, bisquit dacquois, feuillantine pralinée with pear). The wine list was decent in all price ranges, and we found a Bruno Paillard blanc de blanc brut reserve Champagne ($135) to go nicely with the meal. The somber decor is modern with black chairs, banquettes and table cloths, a golden cast to the walls, large mirrors and lit crystal faces and wall sconces. Valet parking is available.
Benoit*(18) !(3.5) $(72-160) Tel.=01-4272-2576, fax=01-4272-4568, www.esprit-bistro.com, 20 rue St.-Martin. 75004, Lunch and Dinner daily.
Chef Alain Ducasse has taken this Michelin 1-star rated bistro and preserved its old world charm and appearance. It has been in existance since 1912. Even the rushed bistro service in the packed dinner time is to be expected. We loved the foie gras terrine with Port reduction, as well as the plump, green, poached asparagus de Provence with a sauce mousseline. The scrumptious fricassée of farm raised chicken came with a very generous coating of morel mushrooms, and the roast lamb with potatoes was a winner as well. We couldn’t pass up the in-season wild strawberries with fromage blanc sorbet and honey. Mini tarts of chocolate, lemon and rhubarb were lovely. We chose a 2006 René Monnier Puligny Montrachet les Folatieres ($160) from their decent wine selection. A special note about parking is critical. They are located on a pedestrian street, so garage parking is necessary. Parking St.-Martin can be accessed readily from rue Rivoli into rue St.-Bon directly into the garage. The entrance to Restaurant Benoit is located right across from the pedestrian exit of the garage.
Le Pergolese *(18.5) !(4) $(95-142) Tel.=01-4500-2140, fax=01-4500-8131, www.lepergolese.com, 40 rue Pergolese, 75116, Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner, for dinner only on Saturday, which is not mentioned in the Michelin guide.
This intimate, neighborhood venue sports a traditional decor with lots of mirrors and a few interesting contemporary paintings. A delicious creme of broccoli with chicken liver amuse-gueule prepared our palates for the quite exceptional prawn ravioli (traditionelles ravioles de langoustines en duxelle de champignons, émulsion de crustacés au foie gras) and plump, delicious asparagus vinaigrette with a bit of excess vinegar. The poulet de Bresse en ballotine de foie gras a la truffe with pot-au-feu de legumes was “other-worldly”. A rack of lamb was in perfect accord with its garnishes (carré d’agneau de nos terroirs en croute d’herbes with semolina a la Provencale). Leave room for scrumptious desserts of chocolate eclair with coffee glaze or ginger meringue sphere with red fruit soup and strawberry gelée. We missed out on the traditional grand Marnier soufflé, because we didn’t order it at the beginning of the meal; our server should have given us a “heads-up” on that one when we ordered. That will be the first thing on our agenda for next time. A coupe de Champagne and a half bottle of 2005 Bastide de Dauzac, Margaux ($50) were just the right choices to accompany this splendid lunch. One doesn’t often find such high quality at such reasonable prices elsewhere in Paris; not cheap, but great value for the price. Valet parking is available.
Au Trou Gascon *(16) !(2.5) $(80-166) Tel.=01-4344-3426, fax=01-4307-8055, http://www.autrougascon.fr, 40 rue Taine, 75012, Lunch and dinner Monday-Friday.
This Michelin 1-star rated restaurant specializes in serving hearty fare from Gascony (in the south west of France). Informal bistro ambiance with business men at their computers and rushed service to turn the tables make for a less-than-relaxed repas at dinnertime. We certainly enjoyed the gambas (jumbo shrimp) with foie gras flan and green pea foam sauce. Their green salad was pleasant. Pintade (guinea fowl) roasted with truffles under the skin was quite enjoyable, but it was garnished with sub-par vegetables. A braised, then roasted, leg of Pyrenees lamb was tasty but overspiced; it was garnished with an adequate mashed potato and watercress flan. Desserts were nothing to write home about: pear crumble with gingerbread, hazelnut and chocolate parfait and rice pudding; as well as a rose flavored macaroon cake with wild strawberries and lichees in gelée. From their excellent, reasonably priced wine list we chose a half bottle of 2004 1er cru Gevrey Chambertin ($75) to complement our meal.
L’Escarbille *(17.5) !(3.5) $(55-100) Tel.=01-4534-1203, fax=01-4689-0475, http://www.escarbille.fr, 8 rue Velizy in Meudon (a suburb 6 miles south of Paris), Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Friday, dinner only on Saturday, lunch only on Sunday.
Looking forward to a day in the countryside, we discovered this delightful mom & pop restaurant in an antique relic of a building shell next to the local train station with painted words outside in large print advertising “Hotel Restaurant Billard”; even though they only run a restaurant. But inside, this restaurant is a whole different world; it is the essence of “France in the provinces” with a family organization, farm fresh flowers, a delightful courtyard for al fresco dining and honest, home-cooking at reasonable prices for the locals rather than for the tourists. Even the periodic roar of the passing trains on the way to Paris did not disturb the peacefulness of the setting. Start with some delicious foie gras confit (aux épices douces, gelée de verjus) or warm lobster salad with artichoke hearts. Follow with excellent, done-just-right squab breast (supremes de pigeon) with leg confit or roast turbot with caramelised endives and a delicate citronelle creme. Leave room for the coconut sorbet with dark chocolate cake or raspberry shortbread with lemon-thyme creme. This Michelin 1-star chef, Régis Douysset, also has another 1-star establishment nearby in Versailles, l’Angelique, on 27 Avenue de St. Cloud tel=01-3084-9885, which is open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. We look forward to trying that one as well.
Chez Francis *(14.5) !(3) $(60-110) Tel.=01-4720-8683, Fax=01-4720-4326, 28 7 Place de l’Alma, 75008, Daily=12:00 Noon-02:00 AM.
This colorful, old time brasserie is located just down the block from the Theatre de Champs-Élysée; so convenient, that the conductor and the soloist with their entourage were seated across from us 30 minutes after the end of the concert. We shared a delicious mi-cuit foie gras with dried fruit chutney, followed by a nicely prepared sea bass for 2 people roasted whole. Dessert consisted of decent red fruits with good vanilla ice cream. Half a bottle of La Roche 2007 Chablis 1er cru les Fourchaumes ($61) went nicely with our late supper.
Cafe de Flore *(14) !(2.5) $(30-60)Tel.=01-4548-5526, 172 Boulevard Saint Germain, 75006, Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.
We feel the aura of history when we sit here (or in Brasserie Lipp across the boulevard), for this is where the artists and intellectuals hung-out in the early part of the 20th century. It is still a decent place to have a ham sandwich, slab of foie gras, fine cup of onion soup or tarte Tatin for dessert. The shining light on their simple wine list is an outstanding half bottle of Krug multivintage Champagne for the bargain price of $130. If you’re not in the mood for a meal, just sit outside with a beer or coffee and watch the world go by.
Au Pied de Cochon *(14.5) !(3.5) $(35-92) Tel.=01-4013-7700, Fax=01-4013-7709, www.pieddecochon.com, 6 rue Coquilliere, 75001, Daily=24/7, never closed.
We have been coming to this colorful, old time brasserie for the past 46 years, since before they relocated Les Halles, the produce district, when the butchers and others would come here for their onion soup (one of the best around, just the right balance of cheese, onion and crust) in the middle of the night. After all this time, we felt it only right to actually order their specialty: stuffed pied de cochon (pig’s foot) with sauce Périgourdine; we guess it must be an acquired taste, but at least we tried, even though we didn’t particularly care for it. The white asparagus was done beautifully with a sauce mousseline, and we loved their crepes flambées au Grand Marnier. Lots of mirrors with art deco, colorful chandeliers and other artifacts give the room a timeless appearance of old Paris. An appropriate half bottle of Michel Laroche 2005 Chablis ($28) was chosen from their simplistic wine list.
http://aswelikeit.vox.com/
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.
As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.
London, England
Gordon Ramsay *(19.5) !(4.5) $(125-185) Tel.=020-7352-4441 Fax=020-7352-3334, www.gordonramsay.com, 68 Royal Hospital Road, SW3 4HP, Mon.-Fri.: Lunch=12-2:30 PM, Dinner=6:30-11:00PM.
We loved his New York (Michelin 2-star rated) restaurant so much, that we had to dine at this venue, his Michelin 3-star rated crown jewel on his home turf. And we were not disappointed. Exquisite preparations of prime ingredients were served flawlessly in elegant dishes with regal tableware. Scrumptious starters included: ravioli of lobster, langoustine and salmon poached in a light bisque; quail and foie gras pithivier with wild mushrooms; butter-poached Scottish lobster tail with chestnut lasagne, trompettes de la mort, baby spinach and black truffles; sautéed foie gras with roasted veal sweetbreads; and pressed foie gras with confit chicken and Périgord truffles. Main courses were “to die for”, each dish delicately balanced to showcase the ingredients in perfect harmony: roasted fillet of line-caught turbot with langoustines, linguine and wild mushrooms; pan-fried, line-caught sea bass with steamed charlotte potatoes, cucumber, oyster beignet and caviar velouté; oven-roasted Bresse pigeon with grilled polenta, crispy lardons, braised shallots, baby golden beetroot and date sauce; Cornish lamb with confit shoulder, provençale vegetables, baby spinach and thyme jus; and roasted saddle of Highland venison with roasted pumpkin and quince. Next came a perfectly aged selection of cheeses, followed by our favorite dessert, and one that makes the trip to London or New York worthwhile, caramelised tarte Tatin of apples with vanilla ice cream (for two). The encyclopedic wine list contained the following selections that complemented dinner exquisitely: Bollinger Champagne ($105.), P. Pernot Puligny Montrachet ($105) and a Corton Bressande ($150). Call 2 months in advance between 10:00 AM and 3:30 PM to book a table, and be prepared to leave your credit card information (a good way to prevent no-shows), which will not be charged if you cancel properly. For those of you wishing for a less expensive way to share in the Gordom Ramsay experience, he operates these other London restaurants: Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s (Michelin 1-star), Boxwood Cafe, Maze (Michelin 1-star), Maze Grill, Foxtrot Oscar (bistro), Murano, York & Albany and 3 pubs (The Narrow, The Devonshire and the Warrington). It seems that you can spend a week and a half dining in different Gordon Ramsay places with varied styles and prices. We look forward to trying them all.
Brasserie Roux in the Sofitel Hotel *(17) !(3.5) $(30-65) Tel.=(0)20 7747 2200, http://www.sofitelstjames.com/brasserieroux/brasserieroux.html, 8 Pall Mall, Daily= 6:30 AM-11.30 PM.
This one hundred-seat restaurant offers classic French brasserie cuisine in an atmosphere of informal elegance. With its long hours, it is available whenever people are interested in eating. We enjoyed the French onion soup, pike quenelle with Nantua sauce, duck foie gras with fig chutney, organic Scottish salmon with smoked salmon, spit-roasted free range chicken, pot au feu and roasted woodcock with wild mushrooms. Save room for desserts of: creme caramel a l’orange or rum baba with caramelized pineapple. An appropriate wine list exists, and service is attentive.
The Wolseley *(15) !(3.5) $(15-68) Tel.=020-7499-6996, 160 Piccadilly, Mon-Fri.=7:00 AM-Midnight, Sat.=8:00 AM-Midnight, Sun.=8:00 AM-11:00 PM.
They offer a lunch and dinner menu as well as menus in the Grand Café tradition at different times throughout the day including breakfast, morning pastries, afternoon tea and an all day menu with sandwiches, salads, crustacea and plats du jour. It’s such a popular place, that we were only able to book a fine English breakfast there on one occasion; they were fully booked otherwise. The rather formal, elegant setting contrasts with the slow, inefficient service. Looks like a fun place for high tea, but we couldn’t get reservations, even with a week’s notice.
Richoux *(14.5) !(3.5) $(15-50) Tel.=0207-493-2204, 172 Piccadilly, Mon.-Fri.=8:00 AM-11:00 PM, Sat.= till 11:30 PM, Sun.=9:00 AM-11:00 PM.
The Richoux team runs 4 restaurants in London, but this location was around the corner from our lodgings, and it proved a reliable place for delicious English breakfasts with pancakes, eggs any fashion, sausage, meaty bacon, beans and black pudding. Lunch proved popular with spaghetti carbonara, curried chicken and risotto with chicken. Pick some delicious patisseries from the front counter to enjoy with your coffee. You don’t need to reserve, they alway seem to be able to seat you, even if there is a queue. The English equivalent of a brasserie decor make for a pleasant atmosphere.
Yauatcha *(17.5) !(3) $(24-75) Tel.=020 7494 8888, www.yauatcha.com, 15-17 Broadwick Street, Soho W1F 0DL, Mon.-Sat.=12:00 Noon-11:45 PM, Sun. till 10:30 PM.
This is part luxury dim sum restaurant and part tea-house with a French-Oriental patisserie counter. Unlike in California, the dishes don’t come around on a tray or cart, but you order them directly from the menu, along with the rest of the primarily Cantonese courses. And also unlike California, the servers are not of oriental origin, but rather attractive, young people who seem like they’re waiting for a Hollywood producer to discover them. The dim sum is first class with some modern variations, and it deserves its Michelin 1-star rating. We loved several variations of dumplings, pork rolls, venison puffs, smoked duck with Chinese pancakes, pot stickers, noodle dishes and selections from the upstairs pastry counter. The choice location to sit is downstairs with glass sparkly “stars” shining from the walls and ceiling and a huge fish tank over the bar.
Locanda Locatelli *(18.5) !(3.5) $(34-89) Tel.=0207-935-9088, www.locanalocatelli.com, 8 Seymour St., W1H 7JZ, Lunch=12:00-3:00 daily, Dinner from 6:45 PM nightly.
This delightful, Michelin 1-star rated restaurant nicely satisfied our desire for a special Italian-London dinner in an elegant, contemporary setting. Hearty soups included a vegetable-packed minestrone and a superb tortellini in brodo. House-made pastas were combined with perfect complements in the pappardelle with wild boar ragu and the tagliatelle with kid goat ragu. Quail risotto with grana padano cheese was another of our favorites, as was their preparation of kid goat with roasted vegetables. Leave room for scrumptious desserts of: tiramisu; apple tart with chocolate chip ice cream; savarin with coconut ice cream and pineapple; montebianco (moscovado sponge, vanilla whipped cream and chestnut ice cream); and tasting of “Amedei” chocolates. The service was top notch, as was their wonderful wine selection from which we enjoyed a 2001 Barbaresco Riserva Vigneti In Pora Produttori Del Barbaresco ($135) and a 2004 Barolo Bussia, Prunotto ($135).
Le Cafe Anglais *(15.5) !(2.5) $(35-74) Tel.=020-7721-1415, www.lecafeanglais.co.uk, 8 Porchester Gardens, Bayswater, W2 4DB, Open daily= 12-3.30 PM, 6.30-11.30PM.
This transformation of a second floor McDonalds branch into a British brasserie has its plusses (decent grilled halibut and chocolate soufflé) and minuses (inedible foie gras terrine and inefficient service). The oysters were good, and the chicken liver flan was enjoyable. Chicken with garlic and rosemary was just okay, as was the rack of lamb with rosemary, garlic and tarbais beans. A custard tart with prunes was pleasant, as was the pear belle Helene. There is a reasonably priced, appropriate wine selection from which we chose Louis Roederer brut Champagne NV ($100) and 2003 Patrick Jasmin Cote Roti ($100); they were a fine accompaniment to dinner. The restaurant is located in an interesting, commercial, multi-ethnic neighborhood.
Wild Honey *(17) !(3) $(41-66) Tel.=020-7758-9160, http://www.wildhoneyrestaurant.co.uk, 12 St. George St., W1S 2FB, Lunch daily from 12:00 noon, Dinner from 6:00 PM nightly.
This Michelin 1-star rated restaurant specializes in serving fresh seasonal produce at reasonable prices in an oak-panelled, old English atmosphere. We savored the soup of potato, organic hen’s egg and radish shoots. Ravioli of English veal, butternut squash and fresh sheep ricotta was stellar, but the chicken and duck terrine was less successful. A warm salad of winter vegetables with olive oil and rosemary highlighted their fresh, seasonal produce claim-to-fame. They certainly did a fine job with the grilled beef rib (for 2 persons) garnished with Anna potatoes. Roast young chicken and traditional Marseille-style bouillabaisse were well prepared. There was a properly aged cheese course to precede scrumptious desserts of: vanilla cheesecake with Yorkshire rhubarb; “pain perdu” (French toast) with apples and golden sultanas; warm chocolate soup with milk ice cream; and their namesake wild honey ice cream with crushed honeycomb. We chose a Billecart Salmon brut reserve NV ($80) and a 2001 Chateau Batailley, grand cru classé, Pauillac ($105.) from the well-selected, well-priced wine list.
The Capital Restaurant in the Capital Hotel *(18.5) !(4) $(75-105) Tel.=(0)20-7589-5171, http://www.capitalhotel.co.uk/restaurantbar.html, 22 BASIL STREET, LONDON SW3 1AT, Lunch and dinner daily as well as afternoon tea from 3-5:30 PM.
We had dined here 10 years ago and remarked about an inattentive sommelier, but on this visit the sommelier was omnipresent and the other servers should have been more attentive. They deserve their Michelin 2-star rating for their fine food preparation combining English ingredients with superb French technique in a relatively formal atmosphere. Start with the crab lasagne with langoustine cappuccino, or the pan-fried foie gras with rhubarb, or even a warm quail salad. That will get you ready for the fine entrees of: Grilled turbot with mushroom ravioli; saddle of rabbit ‘Provençale’, seared calamari and tomato risotto; Pigeon “d’Anjou” with garniture ‘Grand -Mère’; or fillet of lamb with cumin jus and spicy couscous. Intrigueing desserts included: iced coffee parfait with warm chocolate fondant; cheesecake with orange caramel and caramelized hazelnut ice cream; litchi baba with coconut sorbet and exotic foam; and vanilla pearls with roasted banana, rum pannacotta and mango sorbet. The international wine list is quite extensive and expensive.
Le Cafe du Jardin *(15) !(3) $(35-55) Tel.=020-7836-8769, Fax=020-7836-4123, http://www.lecafedujardin.com/, 28 Wellington St., Covent Garden, WC2E 7BD, Daily=12:00 Noon-12:00 Midnight.
Convenient to the Opera, this informal venue is fine for any time of the day for a simply prepared meal. The downstairs room is quieter for visiting with friends, but upstairs is more lively. Start with a warm salad of ham hock with a soft-poached free range egg, or deep fried crab cake with spring onion risotto, or even crayfish risotto with caramelised red onions and shaved parmesan. Interesting entrees included: beef Bourguignon with smoked bacon and cauliflower puree; char-grilled rib eye of Scotch beef with pommes frites, grilled tomato, mushrooms and béarnaise sauce; rare-grilled fillet of ostrich with sauted new potatoes and red peppers, mushroom duxelle and a port reduction; and crispy skin fillet of sea bass with caramelised fennel and brown butter. Pleasant desserts included: lemon tart, chocolate tart, fruit crumble, chocolate mousse and sticky toffee pudding. Service was adequate, as was their wine list from which we chose a Chablis 1er Cru Vau Ligneau (Domaine Thierry Hamelin) 2006 ($54) and a Chateau Lucas (Lussac, St. Emilion) 2004 ($45).
Arlington House Tel.=011-44-207-629-0021 from USA, 25 Arlington St. off Piccadilly.
We find this small building of flats in the Mayfair District to be a great location just down the block from the Ritz Hotel. There was always a taxi available when we needed one, and it’s only 2 blocks from the Green Park Underground tube station. The flats range from 1-3 bedrooms, and prices/availability vary with the season. Reservations can be made through regentsuites.com with a USA telephone=1-800-513-0010; they are also a good source of flats in other areas of London.
http://aswelikeit.vox.com/
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.
As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.
Las Vegas, NV
Picasso at the Bellagio Hotel *(19.5) !(5) $(95-140) Tel.=866-259-7111 or 702-693-7223, 3600 S. Las Vegas Blvd. Dinner Wed.-Mon.=6:00-9:30 PM.
One of the best restaurants in the world, this 2-star Michelin rated venue is definitely deserving of a third star. While other Las Vegas chefs originate menus and oversee operations, Julian Serrano is working hard in the restaurant to turn out fabulous dinners almost every night. The menu degustation began with a striking arrangement amuse bouche with Scottish smoked salmon, potato leek soup and golden osetra caviar. Maine lobster salad with apple-Champagne vinaigrette was ambrosia, and the langoustine salad with roasted zucchini, crispy artichoke, tomato confit and piquillo pepper vinaigrette was awsome. Pan seared U-10 scallop with cream of carrot and ginger was exciting. A memorable Kobe beef filet mignon with potatoes mousseline and seasonal vegetables can’t be beat. A well aged cheese selection preceded exciting desserts of warm chocolate fondant with chocolate caramel ice cream and warm apricot strudel with mirabelle plum parfait and apricot chamomile sorbet. We chose fabulous bottles (2000 Henri Clerc Bienvenue-Batard Montrachet and 1990 Chateau Pichon Longueville Lalande, Pauillac) from their outstanding, but reasonable, wine list. Knowledgeable, attentive service, museum quality picasso paintings, elegant table settings and a view of the fountains and the Eiffel Tower complete the picture for a perfect dinner.
Bouchon *(17.5) !(3.5) $(35-83) Tel.=702-414-6200, 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Breakfast daily= 7:00-10:30 AM, Dinner nightly 5:00-10:30 PM. Brunch Sat,-Sun.= 8:00-2:00.
They have recreated the perfect Paris Brasserie in Las Vegas, as well as its sister venue in Yountville. The raw bar is terrific, as are their rillettes, quiche, soups and salads. We loved their coq au vin, grouper and duck breast, and the kids were happy with the macaroni. Save room for desserts of bouchon chocolate cakes, pot de creme, doughnuts, profiterolles, creme brulee and chocolate mousse. A very appropriate wine list included the delicious Morey Meursault Perrieres at $199.00.
B and B in the Venetian Hotel*(13.5) !(3) $(35-105) Tel.=702-266-9977, 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Dinner 5-11:00 PM nightly.
As you walk past the gondoliers in this recreation of Venice, you look forward to a decent Italian meal from experienced restauranteurs Mario Batali and Joseph Bastianich. The dining room is attractive enough, but the inept servers had difficulty in even getting bread to the table, no less attending to the sophisticated menu that is presented. Minestrone soup is adequate as are their pastas (beef cheek ravioli and pappardelle Bolognese) and entrees (grilled quail, squab and veal chop), but we didn’t bother staying for dessert. There is a decent wine selection and an efficient sommelier.
http://aswelikeit.vox.com/
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.
As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.
New York City, NY
Gordon Ramsay at the London Hotel *(18.5) !(4.5) $(50-150) Tel.=212-468-8888, 151 W. 54th St. between 6th and 7th Ave., Lunch Mon.-Fri., Dinner nightly.
Call 2 months in advance at 9:00 AM to book a table at this 45-seat 2-star Michelin rated restaurant. White tablecloths and elegant table settings are included in its contemporary decor. A fine combination of sauteed Maine diver scallops with braised veal cheeks came with Tahitian vanilla and parsnip cream.
Pressed Hudson Valley foie gras (actually a mousse) was garnished with tapioca and calvados jelly, candied ginger and toasted sourdough. A stunning ginger poached Maine lobster with herbed linguini, baby leeks, trompette royale mushrooms and white port sauce was matched in quality by Caramelized duck breast with red wine glazed figs, beluga lentils and chicken liver rillette. The best Tart tatin we’ve ever had was a perfect finishing touch. Fine service and a comprehensive wine list made for a delightful dinner, so much so that we booked a dinner at the crown jewel Gordon Ramsay in London to be reviewed shortly.
Bouley *(19) !(4.5) $(60-140) Tel.=212-964-2525, 163 Duane St. at Hudson, Lunch daily= 11:30-3.00, Dinner nightly 5:00-11:30 PM.
This is one of the few places where we needed multiple wines for our diverse courses and trusted the sommelier to deliver a wine pairing with our degustation dinner. We began with enchanting starters of phyllo-crusted Florida shrimp, baby squid, Cape Cod scallop and sweet Maryland crab meat in an ocean herbal broth (CA sauvignon blanc), as well as 24-hour cooked Greenmarket tomato terrine with creme fraiche and walnut vinaigrette (Spanish white). We certainly enjoyed our fish: line caught Chatham codfish with baby violet artichokes, pak choi, salsify, Hawaiian hearts of palm local white corn and black truffle broth (Pillot St-Romain); and potato-encrusted Mediterranean rouget with Iranian saffron risotto, rose olive sauce and a parmesan cloud (Chenin blanc from Languedoc). The chef sent extra marvelous extra potato puree to accompany our: Maine day boat lobster with Honshimeji mushrooms, pencil asparagus, Hawaiian hearts of palm, pomegranate reduction and port-paprika wine sauce ( Marange, 1er cru Colin 2005); and Bobo Farms squab and foie gras wrapped in savoy cabbage with foie gras ravioli, yellow oyster mushrooms, port-glazed red pearl onions and artichoke puree (Australian red). A refreshing coconut soup with pineapple granité (Poiré sparkling Normandy wine) preceeded delectable desserts: strawberry-rhubarb gratin with creme de cassis, honey and white asparagus ice cream (Canadian late harvest wine); and Valrhona chocolate soufflé with Vermont maple ice cream, vanilla ice cream and chocolate sorbet (Spanish wine similar to Banyuls).
Le Bernardin *(19.5) !(4.5) $(107-185) Tel.=212-554-1515, 155 W. 51st St. between 6-7th Ave., Lunch=Mon.-Fri. Dinner Mon.-Sat.
What an interesting way for this Michelin 3-star rated restaurant to aggregate its courses: “almost raw” included fabulous combinations of tuna (layers of thinly pounded yellowfin tuna, foie gras and toasted baguette, shaved chives and extra virgin olive oil) or black bass (black bass tartare Mediterranean style, olives, citrus, fennel and marjoram); “barely touched” included spiny lobster (warm lobster carpaccio, young ginger-matsutake mushroom salad and vanilla-citrus oil) and Tuna (seared and marinated yellowfin tuna tartare sandwich with ginger and lime); and “lightly cooked” monkfish (nicely pan-roasted monkfish with an overpowering celeriac black truffle emulsion and red wine-brandy sauce) and wild striped bass-langoustine (stellar preparation of baked langoustine and striped bass with confit tomato agnolotti, bouillabaise consommé and curry emulsion). Perfectly ripe cheeses preceded very enjoyable desserts of rhubarb-citrus (sablé Breton, rhubarb compote, orange, grapefruit and creme fraiche sorbet) and carrot (rum scented carrot cake, golden raisins, Sicilian pistachio, condensed milk ice cream), followed by artistic, delightful petits fours. Frette linens, regal china and tableware, shogi screening of windows, hanging pale wooden beams, lovely floral arrangements and attractive oil paintings with maritime themes made for a warm contemporary atmosphere. Attentive service and an extensive wine list, from which we chose a 2005 Henri Germain Meursault Perrieres at $220.00 made the picture complete.
The Russian Tea Room *(14) !(3.5) $(35-100) Tel.=212-581-7100 russiantearoomnyc.com, 150 W. 57 St., Mon.-Sat. Lunch =11:30-3:00, High tea=2-4:30 and Dinner 4:45-11:00.
This colorful, romantic dining room with beautiful samovars scattered throughout the space and early 20th century Russian art works on the walls is a place to savor its history and enjoy the gracious tea service. Apricot and chocolate blintzes were pedestrian, as were the strawberries Romanoff.
Daniel *(19) !(4) $(98-185) Tel.=212-288-0033 Fax=212-396-9014 www.danielnyc.com, 60 E. 65th St. between Madison and Park, Dinner from 5:45 PM Mon.-Sat.
There was no room for us in the elegant, contemporary main dining room, so we were seated in the intimate, semi-formal atmosphere of the lounge, where they serve the same Michelin 2-star menu with great service. We loved the appetizer of Peekytoe crab with green and yellow curry, Hawaiian hearts of palm, pickled mango and cashew pistou. The pistachio crusted duck foie gras terrine with blood orange, fennel bavarois and arugula salad was unforgettable. We couldn’t resist a tasting of white asparagus from Provence, poached with crispy prosciutto, egg-mustard dressing, velouté with savory cream and espelette oil. Make sure to leave room for the striking chocolate upside-down soufflé. A 2002 Leflaive Bienvenue Batard Montrachet at $330.00 was chosen from their extensive list to complement our dinner beautifully.
Cafe Boulud *(18) !(3.5) $(45-89) Tel.=212-772-2600, 20 E. 76 St. between 5th and Madison in the Surrey Hotel, Lunch Tues.-Sat.=12:00-2:30, Brunch Sun.=11:30-2:30, Dinner from 5:45 PM nightly.
This is the place to go for a relaxed dinner in a serene setting. Start with the seared foie gras with quince or braised beef ravioli with mustard froth. Pan roasted halibut “Dieppoise” with Puy lentils, cauliflower, and saffron mussel emulsion is recommended for fish lovers, while seared muscovy duck breast or pancetta wrapped venison loin would excite the meat enthusiasts. Molten chocolate cake or honey crisp apple strudel with walnut ice cream will send you out in the world smiling.
Bar Boulud *(17) !(2.5) $(35-82) Tel.=212-595-0303, 1900 Broadway between 63rd and 64th St., Lunch Mon.-Fri.=12:00-2:30, Brunch Sat.-Sun.=11:00-2:30, Dinner from 5:00 PM nightly and open till 10:00 Sun.,11:00 Mon.-Thurs., Midnight Fri.-Sat. with cheese and charcuterie till 1:00 AM.
This is Daniel Boulud’s homage to classical French brasserie/bistro cooking with some of the best charcuterie around; paté grand pére (coarse country paté with foie gras, truffle juice and port) was our favorite. Follow that with some fine coq au vin or grilled sea bass, a bit of well aged cheese and memorable desserts of apple tart or ile flottante. Simple decor with closely placed tables reminds us of its French counterparts. Being located across the street from Lincoln Center makes this a perfect place for pre- or post-theater dining.
Adour (Alain Ducasse) *(19.5) !(5) $(56-150) Tel.=212-710-2277 Fax=212-350-8722 www.adourstregis.com, 2 E. 55th St. at 5th Ave., Dinner from 5:30 PM nightly.
This Michelin 2-star Ducasse restaurant continues to deliver the same wonderful dining experience that we have enjoyed in his other places previously. We were fortunately in town for their white truffle tasting menu, starting with exceptional grilled day boat scallops tartuffi, followed by their striking white truffle pasta impression and continuing with a marvelous milk fed veal loin with shaved Alba truffles. Amazing gustatory sensations were created by our dessert of Asian/Bartlett pear, soft almond cake, granité, vin jaune and white truffle foam. This elegant, timeless dining room in the St. Regis Hotel is equipped with the finest linens and table settings, and the service is informed and flawless. Naturally the wine list is world class, as are the prices.
l’Atelier Robuchon *(19) !(4.5) $(35-82) Tel.=212-350-6658 Fax=212-893-6882, 57 E. 57th St. between Park and Madison in the Four Season’s Hotel, Dinner 5:30-10:30 PM nightly.
We have been fans of Chef Joel Robuchon for many years and are happy to find his intimate 46 seat restaurant with its open kitchen to be so satisfying. Half the seats are at the counter, so you can watch the food being prepared; the others are at banquettes scattered around the room. Contemporary decor with Asian touches and elegant tableware are a fine setting for the menu which includes old favorites and interesting new adventures in food preparation. Start with some free range caramelized quail stuffed with foie gras or foie gras ravioli in warm chicken and oriental herb broth; perhaps you’d enjoy spaghetti with shaved parmesan, poached egg and black truffle? Entrees of sea bass and turbot each had a tantalizing taste of black truffle. Finish up with some rice pudding or a fruit of the season tart. The wine list is extensive, and service is knowledgeable and attentive.
San Domenico *() !() $() Tel.=none, 240 Central Park S. near Broadway.
This bastion of old style Italian cooking has closed, so we won’t bother detailing the delicious dinner we enjoyed.
Sarabeth’s *(14.5) !(2.5) $(29-56) Tel.=212-410-7335, 1295 Madison Ave. at 92nd St., Daily=8:00 AM-11:00 PM, Sun.-9:30 PM.
This multi-branched, popular American restaurant is fine for any time of the day for a simply prepared meal. Start with a salad or soup of the season and follow with some diver scallops, liver or rib eye steak before an uncomplicated dessert.
Omni Berkshire Hotel Tel.=212-753-5800, 21 E. 52nd St. at Madison.
We find this to be a great location for a relatively small New York hotel. The rooms are of decent size, and the prices are not too outrageous, depending on the season.
http://aswelikeit.vox.com/
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main
course; full= best available multi-course meal.
As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.
San Francisco, CA
Hayes Street Grill *(17.5) !(3) $(28-49) Tel.=415-863-5545, 320 Hayes between
Gough and Franklin, Lunch Mon.-Fri= 11:30-2:00, Dinner from 5:00 PM nightly except from
5:30=Saturday
This 30 year old landmark restaurant is the dining base for knowledgeable
patrons before performances in the Concert-Opera-Ballet venues. The staff
really knows how to move people in and out to get them to their respective
theaters on time. And the food is nourishing and delicious. Generous portions
of starters we have enjoyed include: green salad with sherry-shallot vinaigrette
(order sauce on the side and add to taste); fabulous mushroom-celery soup;
Caesar salad (one of the best around); grilled Hoffman quail salad with varying
fruit accompaniments, e.g., grilled figs, cherries, persimmons, or fuji apples
and chicories; autumn tomato salad with feta, cucumbers and olives; Oregon
bay shrimp and avocado salad with green beans and egg; cracked local half
dungeness crab (when in season) with avocado and citrus salad; grilled
scallops, asparagus and citrus salad. Grilled marinated Monterey sardines were
tasty but marred by the multitude of tiny bones, and smoked trout toasts were
overly dressed. They do an excellent job with grilled fish that are garnished
with fine French fries and a choice of sauce; we usually substitute a simple
white rice for the fries and order the sauce on a separate dish. They slightly
undercook the fish, so order them cooked-through if you prefer. We loved the
New Zealand blue nose sea bass, wild Quinault steelhead, Hawaiian long line
ono, Alaska coho salmon, Alaska Halibut, and California white sea bass. Other
main courses we have enjoyed include: Ft. Bragg petrale sole, grilled scallops
with white corn and vegetables, Eastern sole with new potatoes and Oregon
chanterelles, and Tuscan style Alaskan halibut with artichokes and potatoes.
Desserts are straight forward and delicious; we usually split a hot fudge sundae
with toasted pecans, but have been known to savor an apple-rhubard or applecherry-
pecan crisp with vanilla ice cream, or a Meyer lemon tart with
huckleberry sauce. There is a reasonably priced and appropriate wine selection
and corkage is $20.00. Their tables with white table cloths and butcher block
paper are packed together for maximum seating capacity, but the sound levels
are not intrusive. They fill up almost every night, so reserve in advance; they
take reservations 3 weeks in advance after 10:30 AM. There is also a first-come
first-serve bar area that serves the regular menu, but you usually have to come
very early to get a seat. They also offer a “prime time” prix fixe 3-course dinner
for $33 Sunday-Thursday after 7:30 PM.
Katia’s Russian Tea Room *(16.5) !(2.5) $(23-65) Tel.=415-668-9292, 600 5th
Avenue at Balboa, Lunch Wed.-Fri= 11:30-2:30, Dinner from 5:00 PM Wed.-Sun.
Start with some beet borsch or mushroom-barley-potato soup and follow
with little bites (zakuski) of piroshki, vareniki or pelmeni to pass around the
table. Our favorite is the blini selection with smoked salmon, etc. We also like
to bring our own caviar for the blini. Beef stroganoff, veal cutlets, lamb shashlik
and poached sturgeon are recommended entrees. Save room for the blinchiki or
Napoleon desserts. Street parking can be challenging.
Jardiniere *(17.5) !(3.5) $(54-125) Tel.=415-861-5555, 300 Grove St., at Franklin,
Dinner from 5:00 PM nightly.
This is a more formal restaurant for your pre- or post-concert meal, and
it is most conveniently located across the street from the Symphony and Opera
Halls with valet parking available. We savored the foie gras terrine with
caramelized pineapple and macadamia nuts to start. Highly recommended are
the Maine diver scallops with cauliflower, golden raisins, coconut and lemon
grass nage, as well as Liberty Farms duck breast with turnips, bok choy, blood
orange and tamarind-date puree. Enjoyable desserts included a dark chocolate
cake and a rhubarb-frangipane tart with pistachio ice cream and vanilla
custard. There is an expensive, extensive wine list, and corkage is $25.
Boulevard *(18) !(4) $(46-80) Tel.=415-543-6084 Fax=415-495-2936
boulevardrestaurant.com, One Mission St. at Steuart, Lunch Mon.-Fri.=11:30-2:00, Dinner
from 5:00 PM nightly.
The delightful art deco setting makes you feel like you are in a Paris
Brasserie. Make sure to reserve in advance, because it’s one of the most popular
places in town. Outstanding starters included squab breast (with potato ravioli)
and pan seared Sonoma foie gras with honey poached quince and toasted
chocolate spice bread. Also enjoyed were the Monterey calamari stuffed with
crab and lobster, as well as an heirloom Tamworth proscuitto course. Wood
roasted rack of lamb was fabulous, and the pan roasted guinea hen was
delightful. Leave room for some delicious apple terrine or quince cake. There is
a fine but pricey wine list with a $25. corkage fee. Valet parking is available.
Fleur de Lys *(19.5) !(5) $(90-150) Tel.=415-673-7779 Fax=415-673-4619, 777
Sutter St. at Jones, Dinner from 6:00 PM Mon.-Sat.
Romance oozes from every corner of this wonderful restaurant with its
beautiful decor, seamless service and world class wine list. You can’t go wrong
with a symphony of appetizers or the salmon soufflé “Paul Haeberlin”. The
boneless quail stuffed with ris de veau (sweetbreads) is “to die for” as is the
seared filet mignon with a lobster truffled “mac & cheese” en brioche. Duck
lovers will be happy to find a muscovy duck breast on savoy cabbage with
cream of celery root. An assortment of fine cheeses is the perfect complement
to those last few ounces in your wine glass. We go back and forth at to whether
we prefer the Grand Marnier or the chocolate soufflé for dessert. Corkage is
$35. Valet parking is available.
Dining Room at the Ritz Carlton *(18.5) !(4.5) $(45-125) Tel.=415-773-6198, 600
Stockton St. between California and Pine, Dinner from 6:00 PM Tues.-Sat.
This is the place to go for an elegant dinner in a serene setting. For
maximal conversational abilities ask to be seated away from the harp player. We
loved all of these appetizers: chilled pea soup, sashimi of kampachi, chilled
foie gras and abalone. Well executed entrees included foie gras medallions with
rhubarb terrine, potato crusted moi, black cod with suckling pig, Sonoma duck
breast, poussin and veal chop with sweetbread medallion. Desserts are usually
first rate. You can’t beat the wine selection or service, and the corkage is $35.
Valet parking is available.
La Terrasse*(15.5) !(2.5) $(22-48) Tel.=415-922-3463, 215 Lincoln Blvd. at Graham St. on the Presidio of San Francisco, Breakfast Mon.-Fri.= 7:00-10:45 AM, Brunch Sat.=11.00-4:00 PM, Sun. =10:00-4:00, Lunch Mon.-Fri= 11:00-4:00, Dinner= 5:00-10:00 PM nightly.
We find this to be a delightful bistro for lunch to enjoy their generous, flavorful foie gras torchon as well as the moules frites with Pernod, salad nicoise with grilled tuna, sauteed prawns provencal and onion soup gratinee. Pot de creme and vanilla millefeuille were fine finishing touches. We look forward to trying their breakfasts, brunches and dinners in the future. An appropriate but limited wine selection is available and corkage is $25.
La Folie*(18.5) !(4) $(75-110) Tel.=415-776-5577, 2316 Polk St. between Green and Union, Dinner only= 5:30-10:30 PM Mon.-Sat.
Who could resist beautifully seared Hudson Valley Foie gras with wild Oregon huckleberries or cauliflower soup with lobster knuckles and curried pears? We loved the pan seared Tai snapper with jus de bouillabaisse and thought the trio of rabbit (loin, rack and braised leg) with natural jus to be delightful. Black mission fig tarte tatin is a marvelous innovation on one of our favorite desserts. An exceptional wine list has something for everybody, and corkage is $35. Valet parking is available.
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San Francisco Eats Updated: Nov 6, 2009
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