NY City Dining 11/07

Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

    New York City

    Jean Georges *(19) !(4.5) $(100-200) tel=212-299-3900. http://www.jean-georges.com/. 1 Central Park W. between 60-61st St. in the Trump International Hotel.  Lunch Sunday only=12:00-2:30 P.M. Dinner 5:30-11:00 Mon.-Sat.
    We have followed this chef over the years from his NY start in the Hotel Lafayette to his latest Michelin 3-star mecca here. Jean George Vongerichten is the consummate entrepreneur-chef, who is able to create restaurants for all tastes, this one being his crown jewel. Previously we were only able to snag reservations in the adjoining bistro, which was very pleasant for a pre-concert dinner. After some tantalizing amuse bouches, we felt compelled to start with his “over-the-top” ($175.00 appetizer split-for-two) truffle dumpling of white truffles over a goat-gruyere cheese custard with a delightful counter point of frisee salad and toasted hazelnut. We loved the tastes and textures of the turbot with Chateau Chalon sauce (like a sweet crepes suzettes sauce made with vin jeune d’Arbois). Beautifully sauteed foie gras came with an overly smokey-sweet chestnut and brandy accompaniment. Marvelous entrees of halibut (steamed with Honshimeji mushrooms and lemon grass consomme) and poached lobster with saffron tapioca and Gewurztraminer foam preceded delightful Autumn and apple tastings of desserts. A bottle of Roederer Premier Brut Champagne was just the right choice from their great wine selection. The dining room has an understated, modern elegance with taupe leather booths and an 8-golden-globed light fixture stretching out like the tentacles of an octopus from the ceiling. Lovely, fresh, vibrant-colored flowers adorned the white linen table cloths. All in all we enjoyed our dining experience, but would have given them only 2 Michelin stars, feeling that the experience at Per Se and the French Laundry belong to the higher 3-star realm.

    San Pietro Ristorante *(16.5) !(4.0) $(50-100) tel=212-753-9015  fax=212-371-2337 www.sanpietro.net.  18 E. 54th St.  Lunch and dinner Mon.-Sat.
    Authentic cuisine of Salerno, Italy is prepared using extra virgin olive oil from their family farm in Salerno. Italian waiters and charming murals and memorabilia make you feel like you are dining in Italy. We were fortunate enough to arrive during white truffle season, so that we could share a delicious but outrageously expensive truffled fettuccini portion for the table. Other pastas and antipasti were enjoyable, as were assorted fish and veal entrees. This is one of those rare places that still prepares crepes suzettes table side. We chose an NV Veuve Cliquot Champagne (@$110) and a 2002 Montevetrano from Compagna (@$110) from their fine wine list.

        
    Vong*(15.0) !(4.0) $(35-70) tel=212-486-9592 http://www.jean-georges.com/. 200 E. 54th St. between 2nd & 3rd Ave. Lunch M-F=12:00-3:00, Dinner daily 5:30-11:00.
    This is another slice of Jean George Vongerichten’s dining empire, specializing in cuisine of S.E. Asia. We found most of their courses somewhat overly spiced for our palates. We suggest beginning with a tasting plate of their signature appetizers and supplement that with sauteed foie gras, ginger and mango. We sampled entrees of bass, chicken, beef, rabbit and Thai lobster. Each had appropriate accompaniments, but none were truly exceptional. Dessert samplers were equally pleasant. A bottle of Pol Roger brut Champagne at $88.00, chosen from their appropriate wine list, went nicely with most courses. The ambiance captures colorful S.E. Asia decor. They automatically add a 20% gratuity for parties of 6 or more.

   
    Picholine *(18.5) !(4.5) $(65-105) 212-724-8585. Picholinenyc.com. 35 W. 64th St. between Broadway and Central Park W. Dinner nightly from 5:30.
    This is our favorite formal place to dine before a concert, because it’s located right across the street from Lincoln Center, and they know how to time things so that patrons get out on time to make the opening curtain. Frette linens, solid weight silver, fine china and crystal make this contemporary dining room feel quite elegant. Prelude courses included: an ordinary tasting pumpkin bisque, funny textured but tasty foie gras torchon accompanied by an over-peppered brioche toast, excellent warm lobster with mousserons and savoy cabbage, and a scrumptious wild mushroom risotto. We loved our olive oil-poached halibut, and our sea bass with oyster veloute was delightful. Since they have the best cheese selection we’ve tasted in America, we couldn’t leave without a taste of each of the following, which were all superb: Oregon classic sheep, pave d’Auge, Robiola, petit munster (France), taleggio and epoisses. A bottle of 2003 Etienne Sauzet Puligny Montrachet held up well throughout the meal. We wholeheartedly agree with the Michelin Guide’s 2-star rating.

    Gallagher’s Steak House *(14.5) !(3) $(35-75) 212-245-5426. Fax: 212-245-5426. 228 W. 52nd St. Open daily from 12:00 noon to midnight.
    1927 is the founding date for this old time off-Broadway steakhouse. Good rib eye and filet mignon beef with simple baked potatoes and steamed broccoli are just the ticket for hungry theater goers in between performances. A Heitz Cellar cabernet at $69.00 was just the right wine for the steaks.

     Angelo’s Pizza *(12) !(1) $(12-26) 212-245-8811. 1699 W. Broadway between 53rd & 54th St. 11:00 A.M.-11:00 P.M. daily.
    A fun place to get a late bite of pizza or pasta in the midtown area.

     Burger Heaven *(10) !(1) $(8-24) 212-753-4214. burgerheavenny.com. 536 Madison Ave. and 5 other Manhattan locations. 7:00 A.M.-9:00 P.M. daily.
    A 60-year old chain of no-nonsense, reliable burgers and diner foods. Good for a fast bite or to take the kids.