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Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)

Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

New England: Boston Area, Massachussetts

  The Blue Room *(15) !(3) $(17-53) Tel.=(617) 494-9034, 1 Kendall Sq # B2001

Cambridge, MA 02139-1593, Lunch and Dinner daily.

  The Blue Room is a simple, comfortable place filled with students and local business people. Housed in a renovated woven hose factory, the space has bare wooden beams, brick and granite walls, and zinc-topped tables. The food is pleasant but not exceptional. We liked their simple wood grilled pizza, roasted beet-ricotta salad, grilled tuna, pan seared cod loin and wood grilled lamb rack with a side of mashed potatoes. Leave room for the apple tart and poached pears. A bottle of Pierre Morey Puligny Montrachet at $95.00 was a fine accompaniment. Service was efficient and pleasant.

  L’Espalier *(15) !(4) $(82-185) Tel.=(617) 262-3023, 774 Boylston St. in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Lunch and dinner daily.

  This is one of the most over-rated restaurants we’ve visited in recent times. The pompous “I’m doing you a favor by serving you” attitude of the wait staff is matched only by the overly fussy preparations coming out of the kitchen. The chef learned the lesson of writing a menu that sounds great; now they have to teach him to prepare dishes to taste as good as they sound. Because of the good things we heard about the place, we paid extra for the least successful lobster course of our trip. The taste of the $40.00 truffles supplement  was lost on an otherwise forgettable course. Actually, there were no dishes we could actually recommend. The one memorable saving grace of the evening was a $250.00 bottle of 2005 Jadot Chevalier Montrachet les Demoiselles. Decor, lighting and tableware were a class act.

  Riverbend Bar and Grill in the Newton Marriott *(14.5) !(3) $(16-46) Tel.=617-969-1000, 2345 Commonwealth Ave., Newton, MA 02666 Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner daily.

  This is an interesting venue for a relaxed, simple lunch. We specially enjoyed the back tables looking out at the river with Autumn leaves dropping and a light cover of snow on the ground. Inexpensive and tasty chowder, lobster roll, tuna salad and burgers hit the spot. Prompt, friendly service was a plus.

  Turner Fisheries at the Westin Copley Place *(17) !(3.5) $(35-95) Tel.=(617) 424-7425, 10 Huntington Avenue, Boston, MA 02116-5707, Dinner =5:30-10 PM Mon.-Sat.

  This large space with simple nautical decor is best enjoyed from a window table overlooking Copley Place for added ambiance. The wait staff is pleasant but relatively uninformed. Make sure to taste the wonderful New England clam chowder. Lobster lovers will go ga-ga over the fresh, flavorful 3.5 pound steamed Maine lobster. The hooked Gulf of Maine haddock preparation was only fair. Even the apple pie with vanilla ice cream is highly recommended. A $90.00 bottle of N.V. Veuve Clicquot Champagne went nicely throughout the meal.

The Oak Room at the Fairmont Copley Plaza  *(16) (4) $(35-105) Tel= 617-267-5300 Fax 617-867-8556 Email=theoakroom@fairmont.com 138 St. James Avenue, Boston, MA 02116, Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.

  There were game trophies on the oak walls of the high ceiling dining room with plush drapes, thick carpeting, ornate chandeliers and heavily draped, well spaced tables and booths. Their specialties are Maine lobsters and thick steaks, each of which was done quite well in standard fashion. Old fashioned waiters have been around a long time, but never learned the nuances of what was on the menu; they could also be more attentive. The hotel itself was attractive and well serviced, but needs upgraded bathrooms.

New England: New Hampshire

  Weathervane Seafood *(15) !(2.5) $(15-35) Tel=(603) 893-6269, 41 South Broadway, Salem, NH, Lunch and dinner daily.

Weathervane Seafood Restaurants is a family seafood restaurant in the Northeast with 14 locations in Maine, New Hampshire, and Massachusetts. There is a simple nautical diner decor with friendly staff and one of the best steamed lobsters we found all week, though the bay scallops did not rise to the occasion. We would not hesitate to stop at their other places, if we come across them.

http://aswelikeit.vox.com/

Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)

Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

New York City, NY (Part 2)

Picholine *(18.5) !(4.5) $(92-125) 212-724-8585. Picholinenyc.com. 35 W. 64th St. between Broadway and Central Park W. Dinner nightly from 5:30.

This continues to be our favorite formal place to dine before a concert, because it’s located right across the street from Lincoln Center, and they know how to time things so that patrons get out on time to make the opening curtain. Frette linens, solid weight silver, fine china and crystal make this contemporary dining room feel quite elegant. Outstanding amuse gueules included: warm chestnut-truffle soup, beet panna cotta and gougeres with citrus oil accent. Prelude courses included: a delightful, but slightly under-cooked, warm Maine lobster with fried vanilla milk, endive and kumquats; a fabulous wild mushroom risotto with local squash and black truffle butter; and an appealing marriage of flavors and textues in the sheep’s milk ricotta gnocchi with artichokes barigoule, bottarga and parsley pistou. We can’t remember ever eating better diver sea scallops, which were garnished with sunchoke silk and a spectacular blood orange Grenobloise (sauce of browned butter, capers, parsley and pieces of lemon). A highly seasoned, fine quality grilled daurade was served with terrific eggplant blini, romanesco and Basqaise jus. Since they have the best cheese selection we’ve had in America, we couldn’t leave without a taste of each of the following perfectly aged cheeses: Robiola, St. Nectaire, taleggio, Charollain, tomme Crayeuse and epoisses with sensational breads and an accompaniment of fine dried apricots and dates. A bottle of 2005 Etienne Sauzet Puligny Montrachet at $185.00 held up well throughout the meal. We wholeheartedly agree with the Michelin Guide’s continued 2-star rating.

  Dovetail *(16) !(3) $(38-56 for Sunday supper) Tel.=212-362-2800, dovetailnyc.com, 103 W. 77th St. at Columbus Ave., Lunch Mon.-Fri., Dinner nightly.

    We dined on a Sunday night, which has a stripped down selection, rather than the regular dinner menu. The spare industrial space is appropriate for the neighborhood. Bare walls are framed with brick; track lighting and wooden tables with votive candles complete the picture. Wait service is inattentive and superficial. A starter of very tasty shrimp a la plancha with a coulis of soft polenta contrasted with an impossibly salty beet tart on a pedestrian base. Main courses had the same dichotomy: a delightful panko crusted cod with lentils and farro risotto contrasted with an overly spiced, olive oil poached halibut. They serve toothsome white cheddar cornbread. A terrific apple crumble was complemented by adequate vanilla ice cream. Marinated black mission figs, vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce came with a just passable pain perdu. We enjoyed the 2006 Meursault les Cras 1er cru Buisson-Charles at a reasonable $145.00.

http://aswelikeit.vox.com/

Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)

Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

New York City, NY

  Alto *(19) !(4) $(41-92) Tel.=212-308-1099, 11 E. 53rd St. between 5th Ave. and Madison, http://www.altorestaurant.com/, Lunch Mon.-Fri. 12:00 Noon-2:30 PM, Dinner Mon.-Thurs=5:30-10:30 PM, Fri.-Sat.=5:00-11:00 PM.

    They just received their well deserved 2nd Michelin star. White tablecloths and elegant table settings are included in the contemporary decor. Some of the best pastas we’ve had in this country included: Tagliatelle con ragu di vitello e fonduta (thin egg pasta ribbons, braised veal ragu, parmigiano cheese), Agnolotti del plin con fegatto grasso e salvia (duck and foie gras ravioli, melted butter, sage, red wine jus) and Tortellini pasticciati con prosciutto (peasant style meat tortellini, prosciutto, tomato, Battenkill Valley fresh cream). We certainly enjoyed the Branzino con melagrana e zucca (sautéed sea bass, caramelized brussel sprouts, pancetta, acorn squash and pomegranate). Nodino di vitello con cipolline e pancetta consisted of a fabulous roasted Amish veal chop, cipollini onions, grilled endive and a superfluous pancetta cream sauce. Make sure to leave room for outstanding desserts of Souffiele di cioccolato (warm chocolate-nutella soufflé, crisp puffed rice and hazelnut anglaise) and Bomboloni (apple-filled doughnut with Calvados-caramel dipping sauce). Fine service and a comprehensive wine list (from which we chose just the right accompaniments to our dinner of Henriot Brut Rosé Champagne NV at $115.00 and a Ceretto Barolo Zonchera 2004 at $115.00) made for a delightful dinner. Chef Michael White’s group has 2 other NYC restaurants that are on our radar for dinners next time we’re in town: Convivo (Michelin 1-star) at 45 Tudor City Place and Marea (Michelin 1-star, seafood specialty) at 240 Central Park South in the old San Domenico location. 

  Bouley *(19) !(5) $(85-150) Tel.=212-964-2525, 163 Duane St. at Hudson, www.bouleyrestaurants.com, Lunch daily= 11:30-3.00, Dinner nightly 5:00-11:30 PM.

  The ambiance of their new location is amazing, like something out of a Metropolitan Opera stage set. From the aroma of apples in the antique wood and glass entryway to the arches resembling a medieval abbey ceiling, you feel transported to a more perfect world. There are large pastoral paintings and some of the lovliest floral arrangements we’ve seen. Soft indirect lighting, lots of candles, a large fireplace, elegant tableware and table linens complete the picture. The sophisticated cuisine certainly deserves their one Michelin star award. Fantastic starters with just the right balances included Japanese Hamachi with watermelon pickles, fresh wasabi and citrus-shiso dressing, as well as a porcini flan with dungeness crab and black truffle dashi (seaweed broth). Golden trumpet mushrooms were disappointingly raw and the accompanying foie gras terrine was too buttery. A perfectly roasted rouget was garnished with black olives, pickled fennel and a tomato coriander red pepper reduction. One of the best egg courses we’ve experienced consisted of an organic Connecticut farm egg with serrano ham, steamed polenta, artichoke purée, radish sprouts and a coconut-garlic broth. We certainly enjoyed our fish: line caught Chatham haddock on a corn base. The Maine day boat lobster was pleasant, but it was overshadowed by the amazing combination and dramatic presentation of fresh Washington State black cod with organic Japanese buckwheat, sunchoke cloud and black onion powder. Seared foie gras with quince purée, Agen prunes, vieux-Armagnac sauce and confit peach purée was quite fine. The only course similar to last year’s menu was a perfectly done New York State organic squab wrapped in Hudson Valley savoy cabbage and steamed with foie gras and lemon thyme. A delectable raviolini with Comté cheese and blue kale preceded our outstanding meat courses of dry-aged NY sirloin (broccoli rabe, Silamar Farm roasted onions and maitake mushrooms) and breast of all-natural Pennsylvania chicken baked en cocotte with alfalfa and clover hay, fresh fava beans and Canadian chanterelles. A plate of mind-blowing mashed potatoes came on the side. Refreshing  local strawberry and rhubarb parfait, yogurt and raspberry sorbet and strawberry granité preceded toothsome desserts of chocolate frivolous, chocolate brulée, chocolate parfait, hazelnut dacquoise, chocolate-walnut spice bread as well as praline & prune Armagnac ice creams. The wine selection was quite appropriate, and we chose a bottle of Henri Clerc 2005 Puligny Montrachet les Combettes at $240.00 as a fine companion to most courses, filling in with a glass or two of others as needed.

  Le Bernardin *(19.5) !(4.5) $(109-209) Tel.=212-554-1515, 155 W. 51st St. between 6-7th Ave., Lunch=Mon.-Fri. Dinner Mon.-Sat.

  An incredible crab amuse gueule was just the right way to begin a heavenly meal where the fish, not the chef, is the star of the plate. We have become true believers in the interesting way this Michelin 3-star rated restaurant aggregates its courses: “almost raw” included fabulous combinations of tuna (layers of thinly pounded yellowfin tuna, foie gras and toasted baguette, excessive shaved chives and extra virgin olive oil) or yuzu cured wild Alaskan salmon (endive and shaved red beet, coriander infused verjus); “barely touched” included terrific seared langoustine (mache, wild mushroom salad, shaved foie gras, white balsamic vinaigrette) and purity of ingredients in the poached, pastured egg with Osetra caviar (mariniere broth and English muffin); and “lightly cooked” visually stunning, baked lobster (white asparagus, sauce gribiche) and baked wild striped bass (corn canneloni of leeks, light Perigord sauce). Toothsome desserts of hazelnut gianduja parfait (with caramelized banana and brown butter ice cream) and a chocolate-peanut combo were followed by delectable petits fours. Frette linens, regal china and tableware, shogi screening of windows, hanging pale wooden beams, lovely floral arrangements and attractive oil paintings with maritime themes made for a warm contemporary atmosphere. Attentive service and an extensive wine list, from which we chose a perfectly balanced 2006 Henri Germain Meursault Perrieres at $240.00 made the picture complete.

  Cafe Carlyle (in the Carlyle Hotel) *(15) !(3.5) $(40-91) Tel.=212-744-1600, 35 E. 76 St. at Madison, Dinner Mon.-Sat from 6:30-7:30 PM, Music performance at 8:45 PM.

  This colorful, jazz and entertainment supper club serves an excellent torchon of Hudson Valley foie gras with fresh plum salad, huckleberry vinaigrette and toasted brioche. Main courses included a pleasant, roasted, Amish chicken from Pennsylvania (roasted artichokes, baby turnips, pommes Anna and chicken jus) and a delicious Dover sole with overly sauced accompaniments of haricots verts almondine and roasted potato medley. The warm berries crumble with vanilla ice cream finished the dinner nicely. A bottle of Roederer Brut Premier Champagne was quite appropriate for dinner and the show. And what a show it was!! Woody Allen and the superb musicians of the Eddy Davis New Orleans Jazz Band played straight through past 10:00 PM, as they  do almost every Monday night. Cover charges for performances are $75.00 at the bar, $100.00 for general seating and $150 to sit right next to the stage in the VIP area and about $10.00 higher on Friday and Saturday nights.

  Bar Boulud *(17) !(2.5) $(35-82) Tel.=212-595-0303, 1900 Broadway between 63rd and 64th St.,  Lunch Mon.-Fri.=12:00-2:30, Brunch Sat.-Sun.=11:00-2:30, Dinner from 5:00 PM nightly and open till 10:00 Sun.,11:00 Mon.-Thurs., Midnight Fri.-Sat. with cheese and charcuterie till 1:00 AM.

  This is Daniel Boulud’s homage to classical French brasserie/bistro cooking with some of the best charcuterie around; paté grand pére (coarse country paté with foie gras, truffle juice and port) and paté grand-mere (fine country paté with chicken liver, pork and Cognac) were our favorites. Follow that with some fine coq au vin, baked daurade (sea breem) or grilled sea bass, a bit of well aged cheese and memorable desserts of pear tart tatin or ile flottante with Pernod. Simple decor with closely placed tables reminds us of its French counterparts. Being located across the street from Lincoln Center makes this a perfect place for pre- or post-theater dining. Loud bar music was a negative for us.

go to: aswelikeit.vox.com

http://aswelikeit.vox.com/
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

    Beverly Hills, CA

     Piccolo Paradiso *(18) !(3) $(22-70) Tel.=310-271-0300, Fax=310-271-1233 www.giacominodrago.com.  150 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, Lunch Monday-Friday, Dinner nightly.
    We found this part of the Giacomino Drago dining empire (Panzanella, Il Pastaio, Il Buco Ristorante Paninoteca, Shu Sushi, Via Alloro) on our last trip to Beverly Hills and were very pleased with the ambiance, service and cuisine. The lively, contemporary decor sparks an upbeat energy to the place. We enjoyed the beet salad and the polenta with mushrooms. Terrific pastas included tagliolini with scampi and fettuccinis Bolognese and carbonara. The branzino (sea bass) and risotto with lamb chops were wonderful. We chose a young but delightful bottle of 2004 Gaja Sito Moresco Langhe at $132 (3 times retail) to complement the dinner. Corkage is a reasonable $15 if you bring your own bottle. Valet parking is $7.00.

http://aswelikeit.vox.com/
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

    San Francisco Bay Area, CA

    San Francisco

     Acquerello *(18.5) !(4) $(60-82) Tel.= 415-567-5432,  Fax=415-567-6432, www.acquerello.com, 1722 Sacramento Street between Polk Street and Van Ness Avenue, Open Tuesday-Saturday from 5:30-10:30 PM.
    An elegant setting with high quality Italian cuisine makes this our favorite destination for such fare in San Francisco. There is always a lovely central floral arrangement with romantic lighting and exceptional wine service and selection. Start with a delightfully refreshing salad of crisp greens and sweet Chioggia beets with warm, crusted Barilot cheese and toasted hazelnuts. We have difficulty choosing among the exquisite pasta preparations, which vary with the season. Perfect balances were present in the asparagus tortelloni scented with black truffles in an asparagus sauce. A fabulous rabbit-filled agnolotti was served with Taggiasca olives and prosciutto. Another favorite was the Sardinian saffron malloreddus (like a tiny pasta gnocchi) tossed with rich duck ragu. Ridged pasta with foie gras, scented with black truffles and Marsala is rich but delicious. We loved the Prosecco risotto with prawns, caviar and Venetian style (carpaccio) bay scallops on top with micro greens. The selection of Italian artisanal cheeses looked terrific, but we were too full to do anything but skip to  desserts of: a toothsome huckleberry and pear tart with Italian triple creme as well as outstanding sorbets of roasted strawberry, raspberry and lemon & lime followed by addicting biscotti. Park on the street at a meter or at the reasonably priced Bank Of America parking lot across the street.

     Petaluma

     Cucina Paradiso *(17.5) !(3.5) $(22-55) Tel.=707-782-1130, cucinaparadisopetaluma.com, 114 Petaluma Blvd. N., Monday-Saturday: lunch=11:30-2:30, dinner= 5:00-9:00 PM, till 10=Friday & Saturday.
     Our favorite local North bay Italian restaurant has moved, with its loyal clientele, from a simple store front in a shopping center to an elegant new venue in the center of town. With an attractive bar area against one wall and an open kitchen in the back, it has more than doubled its space and included a separate dining area with room for 35 people. Lots of wood and attractive wall art enhance the atmosphere. Start with a salad of organic spring mixed greens, red pears, endives, pecans and Point Reyes blue cheese. Pastas and risottos are always top notch. We loved the pappardelle con salsiccia (homemade noodles with fresh porcini mushrooms, Molinari sausage and light tomato sauce. The fine homemade ravioli was filled with fresh porcini mushrooms, parmigiano, butter, sage and light tomato sauce; though we would have preferred more substance in the filling. Risotto con granchio was fabulous: imported arborio rice with fresh crab, champagne and a touch of cream. The wine list and service are terrific, and corkage is $15 if you bring your own bottle. Free street parking is usually readily available.

    Novato

    Boca *(15.5) !(3)$(30-70) Tel=415-883-0901, www.bocasteak.com, 340 Ignacio Blvd. Monday-Friday lunch=11:30-2:30, Nightly dinner= 5:00-10:00 PM.
    Stick to the flavorful, simply grilled steaks and you'll do just fine. Our favorites are the 8 ounce filet mignon and the ribeye. Add a simple baked potato, and you're in meat eaters' heaven. Sauteed prawns and salads are also enjoyable. Service is pleasant but inefficient.

http://aswelikeit.vox.com/
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

    San Francisco Bay Area, CA

    Redwood City

     Old Port Lobster Shack *(16) !(1.5) $(18-64) Tel.= 650-366-2400, Fax= 650-366-4658, http://oplobster.com/index.htm, 851 Veterans Boulevard, Open Monday-Saturday continuously from 11:30 AM till 8:30-9:00 PM, Sunday=12:00 Noon-8:00 PM.
    Started by a lobster professional from Maine, the steamed 1.25 pound Maine lobster special is first rate (worthy of a *19 food rating), the best we’ve discovered locally, and a bargain at $32.75 (or $60.00 for 2). It comes with a nut cracker, lobster fork and bib. Next time we’ll bring our own special lobster scissors to facilitate dismembering. Garnishes include melted butter, fries, cole slaw and corn on the cob. Don’t bother with the surf and turf. Other pleasant courses included beer battered haddock and chips, grilled salmon, shack crab club and baked, stuffed lobster. Set in a simple storefront with unadorned wooden picnic tables, food and drinks are ordered at the front desk and brought to the table when ready by a pleasant staff, eager to please. A decent selection of appropriate wines and beers is available, though we suggest bringing your own Champagne or white Burgundy to complement the fabulous, simply steamed fresh lobsters. For a special treat, call in advance, and they can even order a 5 pounder for people who are nuts about lobster. Lots of onsite parking is available in this strip mall.

    Sebastopol

     Eloise *(17.5) !(3.5) $(32-55) Tel.=707-823-6300, www.restauranteloise.com, 2295 Gravenstein Highway, Lunch Monday and Wednesday-Friday= 11:30-2:30, Brunch Saturday-Sunday 10-2:30, Dinner= 5:30-10:00 PM Monday+Wednesday-Saturday, Sunday=5-9:00 PM.
     The ambiance and service are that of a French country inn with food to match. They even have a few outside tables for sun lovers. A delightful but rich plate of pig trotters was drizzled with a walnut vinaigrette. Other appetizers included a super fresh green salad directly from their garden; tasty, in-season asparagus with a bit too much gribiche sauce (vinaigrette with hard boiled egg , gherkins and capers) and great texture to the ravioli with an egg yolk center and a bit too much sauce; perhaps the sauce should be placed on the side, to be used as desired by the patron. An excess of pepper marred the otherwise fabulous main courses of rabbit pappardelle and guinea hen with matzoh ball soup. The cassoulet was first rate as well. Leave room for the fine lemon curd with warm madeleines or house-made hazelnut-chocolate ice cream. Would that they bring back our favorite: lemon crepes! There is an appropriate wine list with a $15.00 corkage fee if you bring your own. Lots of onsite parking is available. A recession-special Wednesday night 3-course dinner is offered at $35.00, and corkage is waived.

    Palo Alto

     Il Fornaio *(14.5) !(3) $(15-41) Tel.=650-853-3888, 520 Cowper Street in the Garden Court Hotel, Mon.-Thu.= 7:00 a.m.-10:00 p.m., Fri.= 7:00 a.m.-11:00 p.m., Sat. 8:00 a.m.-11:00 p.m., Sun.=  8:00 a.m.-10:00 p.m.
     This is one of the more attractive of the 20 locations in this corporate chain with lots of well spaced tables inside and out. The service is pleasant but not well informed. We enjoyed a lunch of tasty chicken salad and delicious meat lasagna with proper balances between pasta and stuffing. A mixed ice cream dessert provided the right finishing touch. A satisfying glass of 2007 ZD Napa Chardonnay ($18) was chosen from their appropriate wine list. Valet parking is available for $10.00.

    Sausalito

      Murray Circle *(14) !(3) $(27-60) Tel.=415-339-4750, Fax=415-339-4792 www.murraycircle.com, Cavallo Point, 602 Murray Circle, Fort Baker, Sausalito, Daily Breakfast= 7-10:00 AM, Brunch Saturday-Sunday=11:30-2:30, Lunch Monday-Friday=11:30-2:00, Dinner nightly from 5:30 PM.
     Great reviews but disappointing food are what we discovered in this fabulous location on a decommissioned Army base. We figured we would give them a second try after being disappointed on our first visit. Fine natural ingredients are spoiled by “too much stuff” spoiling the natural tastes. A mediocre sweet pea gazpacho with serrano chilies and citrus ice was filled with raw instead of al dente cooked peas. A pedestrian course of Marin mussels with smoked paprika butter was served in an inappropriate vessel having no place to dispose of the shells. A fresh, pleasant day boat halibut was marred by excessive garlic on the plate. The grilled Sonoma pork chop with a detracting carrot-ginger emulsion was garnished with a fabulous textured farro risotto spoiled by its seasoning. Jersey ice cream accompanied a pleasant Boston cream pie. The wine list is amazing with an extensive list of half bottles. Corkage is $25.00 with a 2 bottle limit, though their fee will be waived for each bottle purchased. Lots of onsite parking is available.

    San Francisco

      Piperade *(18) !(4) $(29-61) Tel.=415-391-2555, Fax=415-391-1159, 1015 Battery at Green, Lunch= Monday-Friday 11:30-3:00, Dinner = Monday-Saturday 5:30-10:30 PM.
     Gerald Hirigoyen is a chef who knows how to enhance his high quality ingredients  without messing them up with unnecessary “stuff” on the plate as evidenced by delectable starters of: simply delicious cream of asparagus soup; butter lettuce and fresh herb salad; and superb cold poached foie gras with black pepper, sea salt and rhubarb-ginger compote. We loved our steamed Pacific snapper with spinach and fried garlic vinaigrette. Bluenose sea bass with wilted rapini, bacon, kumquat and meyer lemon was a beautifully balanced course. Save room for scrumptious desserts of: orange blossom beignets, warm apple tart with vanilla ice cream and cornmeal cake with strawberry-rhubarb compote and creme fraiche. The ambiance and service are reminiscent of a charming left bank restaurant in Paris. Street parking is easily available at dinner time.

http://aswelikeit.vox.com/
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

    Wine Country- Yountville, California

    The French Laundry *(19.5) !(5) $(240-300 includes service) 707-944-2380 for reservations taken up to 2 months in advance. www.frenchlaundry.com.  6640 Washington St.  at Creek. Lunch Fri.-Sun.11:30-1:00, Dinner 5:30-9:30 P.M. Nightly.
    Having just returned from a gastronomic dining experience in Paris, we wanted a taste comparison with the  pinacle of our local Michelin firmament. The essence of a Michelin 3-star restaurant dining experience is all about a place where each patron is treated like royalty and eats and drinks like a king; this definition fits the French Laundry perfectly. The hefty charge for dinner includes a plentiful, multi-course meal with lots of choices (including a tasting of vegetables in all their glory), so those people searching for a more simple experience should go elsewhere. Service is world class, beginning with their telephone personnel, front desk reception and pacing throughout the meal. One begins with a series of amuse gueules to enhance the appetite. These will frequently include some of the following: warm cheese gougeres, salmon tartare cornets, small tastes of exquisite soup combinations (perhaps green grape with garlic, cilantro and a purée of green garlic) and custard preparations (sometimes with truffles in an egg shell). At this point the actual menu courses begin to arrive. Refreshing salads might include roasted Hawaiian hearts of peach palm with green grapes, spicy pili nuts and Napa Valley verjus. Oysters and pearls show an exceptional balance between tiny oysters and oscetra caviar. A delectable sautéed Japanese blue fin tuna was served rare with a tomato compote and delicate greens from their garden. We loved the black cod with saffron foam sauce as well as the Louisiana white prawns with spaetzel and beets. These were followed by an outstanding foie gras, sautéed just right. Fortunately for us, black truffles were in season to perfume a fantastic al dente tagliatelle pasta; truffle courses incur a supplementary charge, but they are “to die for”!!! We loved the rich, sensuous courses of: quail with black truffle sauce, as well as the Elysian Fields Farm lamb with peas, morels and a bordelaise sauce. Next came the tasty cheese course followed by a ruby red grapefruit sorbet, “coffee & donuts” and a chocolate mousse with vanilla bean ice cream. We took the petits fours home to enjoy the next day. Their wine selection a nd service are world class as well. Corkage is $50.00 if you bring your own bottle. We considered the following to be a perfect wine complement to the food: start with the lovely house Champagne, followed by our own 1990 Latour Batard Montrachet and a half bottle of 1995 Chateau Rauzan Segla (Margaux). The decor of a converted manor home with delicate linens, wine friendly, elegant Riedel crystal, Bernardaud Limoges china service and Ercuis silver specially designed by Chef Thomas Keller complete the look and feel of elegance.

http://aswelikeit.vox.com/
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding beverage=$. Simple=appetizer + main course;
full= best available multi-course meal. France meal prices include  tax and service.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

    Paris, France Dining

     L’Ambroisie *(20) !(5) $(200-450) Tel.=01-4278-5145, www.ambroisie-placedesvosges.com, 9, Place des Vosges, 75004, Tuesday-Saturday: Lunch=12-1:30 PM, Dinner=8:00-9:30 PM.
    We enjoyed one of the most outstanding meals in recent memory on a routine Thursday lunch service. The exquisite 17th century town house, decorated with a few large scale, stunning paintings and tapestries, is home to some of the most gracious service we’ve experienced. All table settings and linens are of the highest quality. A rouget fish amuse gueule with tapenade was wonderfully balanced. The fabulous seabass (escalopines de bar a l’eminance d’artichaut, nage reduit, caviar oscietre gold) and lobster (navarin de homard et pommes de terre de Noirmoutier au romarin) preparations were “to die for”. We followed with a double veal chop for two people (cote de veau double, coeurs de sucrine braises au jus, with delicate gnocchi); never have we had such a veal dish of pure perfection. Would that we could get such meat from our suppliers in the San Francisco Bay Area. We were too full to partake of the great looking cheese platter. Make sure to leave room for dessert; we loved the red fruit melba with chocolate cake as well as the dried rhubarb sticks with heavenly strawberry sorbet. A bottle of Brut 1er de Roederer Champagne, specially made for l’Ambroisie, ($140) was the perfect accompaniment to everything. Thanks to Michelin 3-star Chef Bernard Pacaud and his staff for maintaining such high standards over these many years. Valet parking is available.

     Le Pré Catelan*(19.5) !(5) $(200-320) Tel.=01-4414-4114, fax=01-4524-4325, http://www.lenotre.fr., rte. Suresnes in the Bois de Boulogne, 75016, Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday.
     This regal chateau is set in the magnificent gardens of the Bois de Boulogne and has all the accoutrements to match: from the voiturie (to park your car) to the furniture and table settings with lovely orchids and plush carpets. Michelin 3-star Chef Frédéric Anton lives up to his stars with outstanding preparations manifesting a nouvelle approach based on solid underlying principals, starting with a wonderful amuse-gueule of cream of onion with petit pois purée. A contemporary preparation of homard (lobster) Breton began with a gelée de homard au caviar d’Aquitaine, followed by pinces croustillantes (like a tempura of the legs) and a perfectly roasted body with garlic, capers and mushrooms. The turbot with almonds couldn’t have been better, and it was accompanied by a splendid, generous serving of risotto with pan roasted octopus; BRAVO!! Beautifully roasted quail with truffles and honey came with potatoes roasted in the jus and foie gras, as well as rillettes and toast. Exciting desserts included a perfect wild strawberry tartelette (sous une feuille de meringue aux amandes argentée, fine tartelette et creme vanillée, fraises des Bois juste sucrée) and a unique, marvelous apple creation (soufflée croustillante, creme glacée caramel, cidre et sucre pétillant). Even the breads and music selection were notable. From the excellent wine list, we chose a 1995 Pol Roger Blanc de blanc Champagne ($160) to complement our meal. We called on a glorious Saturday for lunch in the magnificence of the Bois de Boulogne and found that we were the only patrons in the restaurant for the first 45 minutes, after which time another couple arrived; however, the room was fully booked for the dinner service.

     Guy Savoy *(19.5) !(4) $(160-370) Tel.=01-4380-4061, fax=01-4622-4309 www.guysavoy.com, 18 rue Troyon 75017, Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Friday, dinner only on Saturday.
     Chef Guy Savoy’s long standing Michelin 3-star rating is certainly well deserved for his cuisine. It was nice to see this charming chef in the dining room despite his large restaurant empire. We started with a glorious preparation of artichoke and black truffle soup, layered brioche with mushrooms and truffles. Next came a masterfully executed split-portion of whole grilled sea bass with the skin, vanilla and sweet spices. We could not pass up the opportunity to try our favorite fish, young turbot on the bone with seaweed butter done for 2 people with braised potatoes, young leeks and spinach: a real winner. Desserts were a mixed bag; textures of strawberry were just okay, but rhubarb and flowers with vanilla syrup made for a terrific melange. We also enjoyed their trolley of ice creams, sorbets (especially the rhubarb), conserves, mini tarts and biscuits. A special bread cart arrives with a different bread selected by the chef for each course. We enjoyed a coupe of Billecart Salmon rosé Champagne ($32) as we studied the encyclopedic wine list to choose JN Gagnard 1er cru Chassagne Montrachet ($130) in half bottle to complement our fish courses. The decor of the room is quite modern with straight lines and many African sculpture pieces and artifacts. We found service at lunch time to be too rushed, more like a business lunch in New York than a relaxed meal in Paris. The menu has translations into English, Chinese, Japanese and Russian. Valet parking is available.

      Taillevent *(19.5) !(5) $(140-420) Tel.=01-4495-1501, Fax=014225-9518, 15 rue Lamennais, 75008 Piccadilly, Mon.-Fri.=Lunch and Dinner.
     Jean-Claude Vrinat, who proudly ran this establishment with an iron fist in a velvet glove for these many years, has passed away. Jean-Marie Ancher, his long time Maitre d’, has continued the high class tradition in the classic French way. The Michelin 2-star meal began with beautifully sauced asparagus de Provence with generous, scrumptious morel mushrooms. Bonbons croustillants of duck foie gras with a chestnut cappuccino was an interesting, cutting edge preparation, but a bit salty. A casserole preparation of lobster with chestnuts was amazing. Terrific veal courses included a mignon of milk fed veal with gray shallots and salsify, as well as a casserole-roasted cote de veau with morels. We loved the wild strawberry tart, but found the baba au rhum a bit alcoholic. We began with a coupe de Champagne, after which we chose a superb bottle of 1999 Volnay Santenots du Millieu, Comtes Lafon ($250)from their well chosen, fairly priced wine list. Valet parking is available.

    La Table de Joel Robuchon *(17.75) !(3) $(65-235) Tel.=01-5628-1616, fax=01-5628-1678, latabledejoelrobuchon@wanadoo.fr, 16 Avenue Bugeaud, 75116, Open daily for lunch and dinner.
     We have happily followed Joel Robuchon’s career and restaurants for many years and were most recently impressed with his NYC location; however, we don’t feel this Paris location merits its 2 Michelin stars for cuisine. We did enjoy the fact that they offer a “small plates” menu, so that each person can sample 3 or 4 dishes plus dessert. We enjoyed a refreshing, chilled spider crab (l’araignee de mer)in a vichyssoise preparation, as well as crab wrapped in thin turnip sheets. Chicken soup with foie gras raviolis was tasty but excessively herbaceous, and the morels with green asparagus were too salty. Langoustines en papillotes croustillantes au basilic resembled exquisite tempura prawns, and the Saint Pierre with lime was delicious. Quail with foie gras was again too salty, but the pigeon wrapped in cabbage, like a cannelloni, was delightful. A generous portion of Robuchon’s signature, overly rich but scrumptious mashed potatoes accompanied the bird courses. We certainly enjoyed the yuzu (Japanese citrus) soufflé with citrus sorbet, as well as Le Cafe Frivole (sphere of chocolate au coeur de Guanaja, bisquit dacquois, feuillantine pralinée with pear). The wine list was decent in all price ranges, and we found a Bruno Paillard blanc de blanc brut reserve Champagne ($135) to go nicely with the meal. The somber decor is modern with black chairs, banquettes and table cloths, a golden cast to the walls, large mirrors and lit crystal faces and wall sconces. Valet parking is available.

      Benoit*(18) !(3.5) $(72-160) Tel.=01-4272-2576, fax=01-4272-4568, www.esprit-bistro.com, 20 rue St.-Martin. 75004,  Lunch and Dinner daily.
     Chef Alain Ducasse has taken this Michelin 1-star rated bistro and preserved its old world charm and appearance. It has been in existance since 1912. Even the rushed bistro service in the packed dinner time is to be expected. We loved the foie gras terrine with Port reduction, as well as the plump, green, poached asparagus de Provence with a sauce mousseline. The scrumptious fricassée of farm raised chicken came with a very generous coating of morel mushrooms, and the roast lamb with potatoes was a winner as well. We couldn’t pass up the in-season wild strawberries with fromage blanc sorbet and honey. Mini tarts of chocolate, lemon and rhubarb were lovely. We chose a 2006 René Monnier Puligny Montrachet les Folatieres ($160) from their decent wine selection. A special note about parking is critical. They are located on a pedestrian street, so garage parking is necessary. Parking St.-Martin can be accessed readily from rue Rivoli into rue St.-Bon directly into the garage. The entrance to Restaurant Benoit is located right across from the pedestrian exit of the garage.

      Le Pergolese *(18.5) !(4) $(95-142) Tel.=01-4500-2140, fax=01-4500-8131, www.lepergolese.com, 40 rue Pergolese, 75116, Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner, for dinner only on Saturday, which is not mentioned in the Michelin guide.
     This intimate, neighborhood venue sports a traditional decor with lots of mirrors and a few interesting contemporary paintings. A delicious creme of broccoli with chicken liver amuse-gueule prepared our palates for the quite exceptional prawn ravioli (traditionelles ravioles de langoustines en duxelle de champignons, émulsion de crustacés au foie gras) and plump, delicious asparagus vinaigrette with a bit of excess vinegar. The poulet de Bresse en ballotine de foie gras a la truffe with pot-au-feu de legumes was “other-worldly”. A rack of lamb was in perfect accord with its garnishes (carré d’agneau de nos terroirs en croute d’herbes with semolina a la Provencale). Leave room for scrumptious desserts of chocolate eclair with coffee glaze or ginger meringue sphere with red fruit soup and strawberry gelée. We missed out on the traditional grand Marnier soufflé, because we didn’t order it at the beginning of the meal; our server should have given us a “heads-up” on that one when we ordered. That will be the first thing on our agenda for next time. A coupe de Champagne and a half bottle of 2005 Bastide de Dauzac, Margaux ($50) were just the right choices to accompany this splendid lunch. One doesn’t often find such high quality at such reasonable prices elsewhere in Paris; not cheap, but great value for the price. Valet parking is available.

      Au Trou Gascon *(16) !(2.5) $(80-166) Tel.=01-4344-3426, fax=01-4307-8055, http://www.autrougascon.fr, 40 rue Taine, 75012, Lunch and dinner Monday-Friday.
     This Michelin 1-star rated restaurant specializes in serving hearty fare from Gascony (in the south west of France). Informal bistro ambiance with business men at their computers and rushed service to turn the tables make for a less-than-relaxed repas at dinnertime. We certainly enjoyed the gambas (jumbo shrimp) with foie gras flan and green pea foam sauce. Their green salad was pleasant. Pintade (guinea fowl) roasted with truffles under the skin was quite enjoyable, but it was garnished with sub-par vegetables. A braised, then roasted, leg of Pyrenees lamb was tasty but overspiced; it was garnished with an adequate mashed potato and watercress flan. Desserts were nothing to write home about: pear crumble with gingerbread, hazelnut and chocolate parfait and rice pudding; as well as a rose flavored macaroon cake with wild strawberries and lichees in gelée. From their excellent, reasonably priced wine list we chose a half bottle of 2004 1er cru Gevrey Chambertin ($75) to complement our meal.

      L’Escarbille *(17.5) !(3.5) $(55-100) Tel.=01-4534-1203, fax=01-4689-0475, http://www.escarbille.fr,  8 rue Velizy in Meudon (a suburb 6 miles south of Paris), Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Friday, dinner only on Saturday, lunch only on Sunday.
     Looking forward to a day in the countryside, we discovered this delightful mom & pop restaurant in an antique relic of a building shell next to the local train station with painted words outside in large print advertising “Hotel Restaurant Billard”; even though they only run a restaurant. But inside, this restaurant is a whole different world; it is the essence of “France in the provinces” with a family organization, farm fresh flowers, a delightful courtyard for al fresco dining and honest, home-cooking at reasonable prices for the locals rather than for the tourists. Even the periodic roar of the passing trains on the way to Paris did not disturb the peacefulness of the setting. Start with some delicious foie gras confit (aux épices douces, gelée de verjus) or warm lobster salad with artichoke hearts. Follow with excellent, done-just-right squab breast (supremes de pigeon) with leg confit or roast turbot with caramelised endives and a delicate citronelle creme. Leave room for the coconut sorbet with dark chocolate cake or  raspberry shortbread with lemon-thyme creme. This Michelin 1-star chef, Régis Douysset, also has another 1-star establishment nearby in Versailles, l’Angelique, on 27 Avenue de St. Cloud tel=01-3084-9885, which is open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. We look forward to trying that one as well.

      Chez Francis *(14.5) !(3) $(60-110) Tel.=01-4720-8683, Fax=01-4720-4326,  28 7 Place de l’Alma, 75008,  Daily=12:00 Noon-02:00 AM.
     This colorful, old time brasserie is located just down the block from the Theatre de Champs-Élysée; so convenient, that the conductor and the soloist with their entourage were seated across from us 30 minutes after the end of the concert. We shared a delicious mi-cuit foie gras with dried fruit chutney, followed by a nicely prepared sea bass for 2 people roasted whole. Dessert consisted of decent red fruits with good vanilla ice cream. Half a bottle of La Roche 2007 Chablis 1er cru les Fourchaumes ($61) went nicely with our late supper.
 
      Cafe de Flore  *(14) !(2.5) $(30-60)Tel.=01-4548-5526, 172 Boulevard Saint Germain, 75006, Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.
     We feel the aura of history when we sit here (or in Brasserie Lipp across the boulevard), for this is where the artists and intellectuals hung-out in the early part of the 20th century. It is still a decent place to have a ham sandwich, slab of foie gras, fine cup of onion soup or tarte Tatin for dessert. The shining light on their simple wine list is an outstanding half bottle of Krug multivintage Champagne for the bargain price of $130. If you’re not in the mood for a meal, just sit outside with a beer or coffee and watch the world go by.

    Au Pied de Cochon *(14.5) !(3.5) $(35-92) Tel.=01-4013-7700, Fax=01-4013-7709, www.pieddecochon.com,  6 rue Coquilliere, 75001,  Daily=24/7, never closed.
     We have been coming to this colorful, old time brasserie for the past 46 years, since before they relocated Les Halles, the produce district, when the butchers and others would come here for their onion soup (one of the best around, just the right balance of cheese, onion and crust) in the middle of the night. After all this time, we felt it only right to actually order their specialty: stuffed pied de cochon (pig’s foot) with sauce Périgourdine; we guess it must be an acquired taste, but at least we tried, even though we didn’t particularly care for it. The white asparagus was done beautifully with a sauce mousseline, and we loved their crepes flambées au Grand Marnier. Lots of mirrors with art deco, colorful chandeliers and other artifacts give the room a timeless appearance of old Paris. An appropriate half bottle of Michel Laroche 2005 Chablis ($28) was chosen from their simplistic wine list.

http://aswelikeit.vox.com/
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

    London, England

     Gordon Ramsay *(19.5) !(4.5) $(125-185) Tel.=020-7352-4441 Fax=020-7352-3334, www.gordonramsay.com, 68 Royal Hospital Road, SW3 4HP, Mon.-Fri.: Lunch=12-2:30 PM, Dinner=6:30-11:00PM.
    We loved his New York (Michelin 2-star rated) restaurant so much, that we had to dine at this venue, his Michelin 3-star rated crown jewel on his home turf. And we were not disappointed. Exquisite preparations of prime ingredients were served flawlessly in elegant dishes with regal tableware. Scrumptious starters included: ravioli of lobster, langoustine and salmon poached in a light bisque; quail and foie gras pithivier with wild mushrooms; butter-poached Scottish lobster tail with chestnut lasagne, trompettes de la mort, baby spinach and black truffles; sautéed foie gras with roasted veal sweetbreads; and pressed foie gras with confit chicken and Périgord truffles. Main courses were “to die for”, each dish delicately balanced to showcase the ingredients in perfect harmony: roasted fillet of line-caught turbot with langoustines, linguine and wild mushrooms; pan-fried, line-caught sea bass with steamed charlotte potatoes, cucumber, oyster beignet and caviar velouté; oven-roasted Bresse pigeon with grilled polenta, crispy lardons, braised shallots, baby golden beetroot and date sauce; Cornish lamb with confit shoulder, provençale vegetables, baby spinach and thyme jus; and roasted saddle of Highland venison with roasted pumpkin and quince. Next came a perfectly aged selection of cheeses, followed by our favorite dessert, and one that makes the trip to London or New York worthwhile, caramelised tarte Tatin of apples with vanilla ice cream (for two). The encyclopedic wine list contained the following selections that complemented dinner exquisitely: Bollinger Champagne ($105.), P. Pernot Puligny Montrachet ($105) and a Corton Bressande ($150). Call 2 months in advance between 10:00 AM and 3:30 PM to book a table, and be prepared to leave your credit card information (a good way to prevent no-shows), which will not be charged if you cancel properly. For those of you wishing for a less expensive way to share in the Gordom Ramsay experience, he operates these other London restaurants: Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s (Michelin 1-star), Boxwood Cafe, Maze (Michelin 1-star), Maze Grill, Foxtrot Oscar (bistro), Murano, York & Albany and 3 pubs (The Narrow, The Devonshire and the Warrington). It seems that you can spend a week and a half dining in different Gordon Ramsay places with varied styles and prices. We look forward to trying them all.

     Brasserie Roux in the Sofitel Hotel *(17) !(3.5) $(30-65) Tel.=(0)20 7747 2200, http://www.sofitelstjames.com/brasserieroux/brasserieroux.html, 8 Pall Mall, Daily= 6:30 AM-11.30 PM.
     This one hundred-seat restaurant offers classic French brasserie cuisine in an atmosphere of informal elegance. With its long hours, it is available whenever people are interested in eating. We enjoyed the French onion soup, pike quenelle with Nantua sauce, duck foie gras with fig chutney, organic Scottish salmon with smoked salmon, spit-roasted free range chicken, pot au feu and roasted woodcock with wild mushrooms. Save room for desserts of: creme caramel a l’orange or rum baba with caramelized pineapple. An appropriate wine list exists, and service is attentive.

     The Wolseley *(15) !(3.5) $(15-68) Tel.=020-7499-6996, 160 Piccadilly, Mon-Fri.=7:00 AM-Midnight, Sat.=8:00 AM-Midnight, Sun.=8:00 AM-11:00 PM.
     They offer a lunch and dinner menu as well as menus in the Grand Café tradition at different times throughout the day including breakfast, morning pastries, afternoon tea and an all day menu with sandwiches, salads, crustacea and plats du jour. It’s such a popular place, that we were only able to book a fine English breakfast there on one occasion; they were fully booked otherwise. The rather formal, elegant setting contrasts with the slow, inefficient service. Looks like a fun place for high tea, but we couldn’t get reservations, even with a week’s notice.

      Richoux *(14.5) !(3.5) $(15-50) Tel.=0207-493-2204, 172 Piccadilly, Mon.-Fri.=8:00 AM-11:00 PM, Sat.= till 11:30 PM, Sun.=9:00 AM-11:00 PM.
     The Richoux team runs 4 restaurants in London, but this location was around the corner from our lodgings, and it proved a reliable place for delicious English breakfasts with pancakes, eggs any fashion, sausage, meaty bacon, beans and black pudding. Lunch proved popular with spaghetti carbonara, curried chicken and risotto with chicken. Pick some delicious patisseries from the front counter to enjoy with your coffee. You don’t need to reserve, they alway seem to be able to seat you, even if there is a queue. The English equivalent of a brasserie decor make for a pleasant atmosphere.

    Yauatcha *(17.5) !(3) $(24-75) Tel.=020 7494 8888, www.yauatcha.com, 15-17 Broadwick Street, Soho W1F 0DL, Mon.-Sat.=12:00 Noon-11:45 PM, Sun. till 10:30 PM.
     This is part luxury dim sum restaurant and part tea-house with a French-Oriental patisserie counter. Unlike in California, the dishes don’t come around on a tray or cart, but you order them directly from the menu, along with the rest of the primarily Cantonese courses. And also unlike California, the servers are not of oriental origin, but rather attractive, young people who seem like they’re waiting for a Hollywood producer to discover them. The dim sum is first class with some modern variations, and it deserves its Michelin 1-star rating. We loved several variations of dumplings, pork rolls, venison puffs, smoked duck with Chinese pancakes, pot stickers, noodle dishes and selections from the upstairs pastry counter. The choice location to sit is downstairs with glass sparkly “stars” shining from the walls and ceiling and a huge fish tank over the bar.

      Locanda Locatelli *(18.5) !(3.5) $(34-89) Tel.=0207-935-9088, www.locanalocatelli.com, 8 Seymour St., W1H 7JZ,  Lunch=12:00-3:00 daily, Dinner from 6:45 PM nightly.
     This delightful, Michelin 1-star rated restaurant nicely satisfied our desire for a special Italian-London dinner in an elegant, contemporary setting. Hearty soups included a vegetable-packed minestrone and a superb tortellini in brodo. House-made pastas were combined with perfect complements in the pappardelle with wild boar ragu and the tagliatelle with kid goat ragu. Quail risotto with grana padano cheese was another of our favorites, as was their preparation of kid goat with roasted vegetables. Leave room for scrumptious desserts of: tiramisu; apple tart with chocolate chip ice cream; savarin with coconut ice cream and pineapple; montebianco (moscovado sponge, vanilla whipped cream and chestnut ice cream); and tasting of “Amedei” chocolates. The service was top notch, as was their wonderful wine selection from which we enjoyed a 2001 Barbaresco Riserva Vigneti In Pora Produttori Del Barbaresco ($135) and a 2004 Barolo Bussia, Prunotto ($135).

      Le Cafe Anglais *(15.5) !(2.5) $(35-74) Tel.=020-7721-1415, www.lecafeanglais.co.uk, 8 Porchester Gardens, Bayswater, W2 4DB, Open daily= 12-3.30 PM, 6.30-11.30PM.
     This transformation of a second floor McDonalds branch into a British brasserie has its plusses (decent grilled halibut and chocolate soufflé) and minuses (inedible foie gras terrine and inefficient service). The oysters were good, and the chicken liver flan was enjoyable. Chicken with garlic and rosemary was just okay, as was the rack of lamb with rosemary, garlic and tarbais beans. A custard tart with prunes was pleasant, as was the pear belle Helene. There is a reasonably priced, appropriate wine selection from which we chose Louis Roederer brut Champagne NV ($100) and 2003 Patrick Jasmin Cote Roti ($100); they were a fine accompaniment to dinner. The restaurant is located in an interesting, commercial, multi-ethnic neighborhood.

      Wild Honey *(17) !(3) $(41-66) Tel.=020-7758-9160, http://www.wildhoneyrestaurant.co.uk, 12 St. George St., W1S 2FB, Lunch daily from 12:00 noon, Dinner from 6:00 PM nightly.
     This Michelin 1-star rated restaurant specializes in serving fresh seasonal produce at reasonable prices in an oak-panelled, old English atmosphere. We savored the soup of potato, organic hen’s egg and radish shoots. Ravioli of English veal, butternut squash and fresh sheep ricotta was stellar, but the chicken and duck terrine was less successful. A warm salad of winter vegetables with olive oil and rosemary highlighted their fresh, seasonal produce claim-to-fame. They certainly did a fine job with the grilled beef rib (for 2 persons) garnished with Anna potatoes. Roast young chicken and traditional Marseille-style bouillabaisse were well prepared. There was a properly aged cheese course to precede scrumptious desserts of: vanilla cheesecake with Yorkshire rhubarb; “pain perdu” (French toast) with apples and golden sultanas; warm chocolate soup with milk ice cream; and their namesake wild honey ice cream with crushed honeycomb. We chose a Billecart Salmon brut reserve NV ($80) and a 2001 Chateau Batailley, grand cru classé, Pauillac ($105.) from the well-selected, well-priced wine list.

      The Capital Restaurant in the Capital Hotel *(18.5) !(4) $(75-105) Tel.=(0)20-7589-5171, http://www.capitalhotel.co.uk/restaurantbar.html,  22 BASIL STREET, LONDON SW3 1AT, Lunch and dinner daily as well as afternoon tea from 3-5:30 PM.
     We had dined here 10 years ago and remarked about an inattentive sommelier, but on this visit the sommelier was omnipresent and the other servers should have been more attentive. They deserve their Michelin 2-star rating for their fine food preparation combining English ingredients with superb French technique in a relatively formal atmosphere. Start with  the crab lasagne with langoustine cappuccino, or the pan-fried foie gras with rhubarb, or even a warm quail salad. That will get you ready for the fine entrees of: Grilled turbot with mushroom ravioli; saddle of rabbit ‘Provençale’, seared calamari and tomato risotto; Pigeon “d’Anjou” with garniture ‘Grand -Mère’; or fillet of lamb with cumin jus and spicy couscous. Intrigueing desserts included: iced coffee parfait with warm chocolate fondant; cheesecake with orange caramel and caramelized hazelnut ice cream; litchi baba with coconut sorbet and exotic foam; and vanilla pearls with roasted banana, rum pannacotta and mango sorbet. The international wine list is quite extensive and expensive.

      Le Cafe du Jardin *(15) !(3) $(35-55) Tel.=020-7836-8769, Fax=020-7836-4123, http://www.lecafedujardin.com/, 28 Wellington St., Covent Garden, WC2E 7BD,  Daily=12:00 Noon-12:00 Midnight.
     Convenient to the Opera, this informal venue is fine for any time of the day for a simply prepared meal. The downstairs room is quieter for visiting with friends, but upstairs is more lively. Start with a warm salad of ham hock with a soft-poached free range egg, or deep fried crab cake with spring onion risotto, or even crayfish risotto with caramelised red onions and shaved parmesan. Interesting entrees included: beef Bourguignon with smoked bacon and cauliflower puree; char-grilled rib eye of Scotch beef with pommes frites, grilled tomato, mushrooms and béarnaise sauce; rare-grilled fillet of ostrich with sauted new potatoes and red peppers, mushroom duxelle and a port reduction; and crispy skin fillet of sea bass with caramelised fennel and brown butter. Pleasant desserts included: lemon tart, chocolate tart, fruit crumble, chocolate mousse and sticky toffee pudding. Service was adequate, as was their wine list from which we chose a Chablis 1er Cru Vau Ligneau (Domaine Thierry Hamelin) 2006 ($54) and a Chateau Lucas (Lussac, St. Emilion) 2004 ($45).
 

      Arlington House  Tel.=011-44-207-629-0021 from USA, 25 Arlington St. off Piccadilly.
     We find this small building of flats in the Mayfair District to be a great location just down the block from the Ritz Hotel. There was always a taxi available when we needed one, and it’s only 2 blocks from the Green Park Underground tube station. The flats range from 1-3 bedrooms, and prices/availability vary with the season. Reservations can be made through regentsuites.com with a USA telephone=1-800-513-0010; they are also a good source of flats in other areas of London.