9 posts from 2007

Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

    Nate’n Al  *(16.5) !(1) $(12-28) Tel.=310-274-0101 Fax=310-274-0485 www.natenal.com.  414 N. Beverly Dr. at Brighton Way, Beverly Hills, 7:00 A.M.-9:00 P.M. daily except for Jewish Holidays.
    We wish that a Jewish style deli of comparable quality would open in the San Francisco Bay Area. Even our last few trips to New York City have not yielded food as good, though NY still has the right atmosphere. The chicken noodle soup with matzoh balls and noodles is “to die for”. Favorite sandwiches include corned beef, pastrami, chopped liver and turkey, each accompanied by their great pickles and cole slaw or potato salad. If you eat at a popular time, prepare for a long wait. Reservations are only taken for parties of 6 or more. Make sure to get your name on the list at the cashier’s desk as soon as you arrive. Validated parking is available a few doors away. Consider their take-out counter, where you can order the same food and drive away for a lovely picnic. Also note that nationwide shipping is available, for when you can't get to Beverly Hills.
        
    Il Grano*(18.5) !(4.0) $(40-90) 310-477-7886 Fax=310-477-7775. www.ilgrano.com.  11359 Santa Monica Blvd. West Los Angeles, Lunch Mon.-Fri., Dinner=Mon.-Sat.
    We found it refreshing to find an Italian chef in Los Angeles who knows how to respect the integrity of his fine ingredients and not mess things up with fussy sauces, etc. White table linens, excellent service and lots of room between tables make for a pleasant sharing with your dinner companions. We were happy to come at the right season to have white truffles with a delicious tagliolini in a cream and butter sauce. Carnaroli risotto with diced day boat scallops, winter spinach and asparagus made for a delectable appetizer, as did the daily crudo (sashimi style raw fish) assortment. The surprise crown jewel of the dinner was a salt-crusted, oven-baked Mediterranean striped bass that allowed the fabulous natural flavors to come through; this was accompanied by organic autumn vegetables, each a jewel in its own right, of purple and regular fingerling potatoes, baby asparagus, French string beans and romanesco. It reminded us of the fabulous course we frequently enjoyed at the Port d’Alma Restaurant in Paris. The Alaskan black cod was also enjoyable. Desserts were all quite good: Bacco Tabacco = mocha Bavarian, tobacco infusion, rum gelee and syrup in a chocolate basket; Budino di Cioccolato = warm chocolate cake, crema di caffe gelato and espresso tuile; and our very favorite, a Pannettone soufflé with amaretto creme anglais and glazed berries. A fine wine selection is available, and corkage is $30.00/bottle if you bring your own, which we did. A bottle of 1997 Leflaive Puligny Montrachet Clavoillon and a 1999 George de la Tour BV Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon were the perfect complement to this meal. We should also add that a 5-course vegetarian menu is available at $49.00. Street parking is easily available.

   
    Lucques *(15.5) !(4) $(40-82) 323-655-6277. 8474 Melrose Ave. 1/2 block East of La Cienega, Los Angeles, Lunch Tues.-Sat. 12:00-2:30, Dinner Mon.-Sat. 6:00-10:00, Sun. supper 5:00-10:00
    Glowing reviews in other dining guides encouraged us to call for a hard-to-get reservation, but their cuisine is a prime example of course preparation, where poor saucing can spoil fine ingredients.  The decor is upscale contemporary with a covered, rear garden room that we enjoyed. The service was outstanding, knowledgeable and able to handle all details with ease. Some courses were splendid, like the sautéed veal sweetbreads with sun chokes, potato, dates and honey vinegar, as well as the market fish crudo with green harissa, avocado, watercress, chili and lime. An appetizer of roasted beets and young carrots with black olives, gremolata and crumbled feta was just passable. Decent CK lamb loin chops were  drowned in a butter soaked salsa verde and tapenade; when will people learn to put stuff like this on the side for customers to season to taste. A grilled club steak for two with potatoes “parisienne” (mashed with lots of butter and cream) and a nice accent of arugula salad was marred by unannounced onion  marinated topping. Hand cut noodles with rabbit sausage, chanterelles, mustard greens and toasted bread crumbs were tasty, but we needed to request lots of extra noodles for proper  balance. The black cod with chocolate persimmons, fennel, radish and pomegranate salsa was underwhelming; lots of fuss that didn’t contribute anything. Desserts included very toothsome vanilla crepes, disappointing chocolate donuts and an excellent Valrhona hot chocolate drink. The wine list was appropriate but highly priced; the corkage fee was $20.00. We enjoyed our own 1995 Pol Roger Champagne to start followed by a 1998 Bonneau de Martray Corton Charlemagne; 1995 Laurent Echezeaux highlighted the entrees.

http://aswelikeit.vox.com/
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

    Wine Country- Yountville

    The French Laundry *(20) !(5) $(240-300 includes service) 707-944-2380 for reservations taken up to 2 months in advance. www.frenchlaundry.com.  6640 Washington St.  at Creek. Lunch Fri.-Sun.11:30-1:00, Dinner 5:30-9:30 P.M. Nightly.
    This is the essence of what a Michelin 3-star restaurant experience is all about: a place where each patron is treated like royalty and dines and drinks like a king. The hefty charge for dinner includes a plentiful, multi-course meal with lots of choices, so those people searching for a more simple experience should go elsewhere. Service is world class, beginning with their telephone personnel, front desk reception and pacing throughout the meal.
    One begins with a series of amuse gueules to enhance your appetite. If there are two of you, each will receive a different taste for variety. These will frequently include some of the following: warm cheese gougeres, salmon tartare cornets, small tastes of exquisite soup combinations (perhaps a mushroom-pomegranate base under a squash puree), custard preparations (sometimes with jidori hen egg and/or truffles), white sturgeon caviar variations and an otherworldly Kahala sashimi-type fish preparation whose fresh smoke excites the senses when the transparent cover is lifted. At this point the actual menu courses begin to arrive. Refreshing salads might include Santa Barbara peaches or fennel bulb and satsuma mandarins with arugula leaves and Nicoise olive oil. Delectable oil poached blue fin tuna was served rare with a tomato concassee and delicate greens. Marvelous preparations of perfectly butter-poached Maine lobster tail (caramelized cipollini onions, sunchoke puree, scallion “Emincee”, hazelnuts and coffee-chocolate emulsion) were followed by outstanding foie gras dishes (for a $30.00 supplement, one sautéed just right, the other “au torchon” with meyer lemon relish, Tokyo turnips, watercress and Granny Smith apple puree). Fortunately for us, white truffles were in season to top our carnaroli rice risotto and tagliatelle pasta; these dishes were “to die for”!!! We loved the rich, sensuous courses of: all day-braised Kurobuta pork belly with mustard seed glaze, roasted hearts of romaine lettuce and celery root puree, as well as the rabbit shoulder with exquisite mashed potatoes. Another very special experience was tasting the grilled-rare sirloin of Kuroge beef from Shiga with hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, thumbelina carrots, wilted pea tendrils and caramelized garlic sauce (for a $100.00 supplement). At this point in the evening we were so full that we skipped the cheese course and went directly to desserts of a wonderful chocolate soufflé with caramel ice cream and chocolate sauce, as well as a chocolate mousse pavé with pistachio ice cream and sour cherries. Some strong double expressos prepared us for the drive home.
Their wine selection a nd service are world class as well. Corkage is $50.00 if you bring your own bottle. We considered the following to be a perfect wine complement to the food: start with the lovely house Champagne, followed by our own 1992 Remoissenet Montrachet Thenard and a half bottle of 2000 Chateau Palmer (Margaux).
The decor appearance of a converted manor home with delicate linens, wine friendly, elegant Riedel crystal, Bernardaud Limoges china service and Ercuis silver specially designed by Chef Thomas Keller complete the look and feel of elegance.
Even the sound of Christmas carollers singing at the entrance a few days before Xmas was a special treat.

Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

    New York City

    Jean Georges *(19) !(4.5) $(100-200) tel=212-299-3900. http://www.jean-georges.com/. 1 Central Park W. between 60-61st St. in the Trump International Hotel.  Lunch Sunday only=12:00-2:30 P.M. Dinner 5:30-11:00 Mon.-Sat.
    We have followed this chef over the years from his NY start in the Hotel Lafayette to his latest Michelin 3-star mecca here. Jean George Vongerichten is the consummate entrepreneur-chef, who is able to create restaurants for all tastes, this one being his crown jewel. Previously we were only able to snag reservations in the adjoining bistro, which was very pleasant for a pre-concert dinner. After some tantalizing amuse bouches, we felt compelled to start with his “over-the-top” ($175.00 appetizer split-for-two) truffle dumpling of white truffles over a goat-gruyere cheese custard with a delightful counter point of frisee salad and toasted hazelnut. We loved the tastes and textures of the turbot with Chateau Chalon sauce (like a sweet crepes suzettes sauce made with vin jeune d’Arbois). Beautifully sauteed foie gras came with an overly smokey-sweet chestnut and brandy accompaniment. Marvelous entrees of halibut (steamed with Honshimeji mushrooms and lemon grass consomme) and poached lobster with saffron tapioca and Gewurztraminer foam preceded delightful Autumn and apple tastings of desserts. A bottle of Roederer Premier Brut Champagne was just the right choice from their great wine selection. The dining room has an understated, modern elegance with taupe leather booths and an 8-golden-globed light fixture stretching out like the tentacles of an octopus from the ceiling. Lovely, fresh, vibrant-colored flowers adorned the white linen table cloths. All in all we enjoyed our dining experience, but would have given them only 2 Michelin stars, feeling that the experience at Per Se and the French Laundry belong to the higher 3-star realm.

    San Pietro Ristorante *(16.5) !(4.0) $(50-100) tel=212-753-9015  fax=212-371-2337 www.sanpietro.net.  18 E. 54th St.  Lunch and dinner Mon.-Sat.
    Authentic cuisine of Salerno, Italy is prepared using extra virgin olive oil from their family farm in Salerno. Italian waiters and charming murals and memorabilia make you feel like you are dining in Italy. We were fortunate enough to arrive during white truffle season, so that we could share a delicious but outrageously expensive truffled fettuccini portion for the table. Other pastas and antipasti were enjoyable, as were assorted fish and veal entrees. This is one of those rare places that still prepares crepes suzettes table side. We chose an NV Veuve Cliquot Champagne (@$110) and a 2002 Montevetrano from Compagna (@$110) from their fine wine list.

        
    Vong*(15.0) !(4.0) $(35-70) tel=212-486-9592 http://www.jean-georges.com/. 200 E. 54th St. between 2nd & 3rd Ave. Lunch M-F=12:00-3:00, Dinner daily 5:30-11:00.
    This is another slice of Jean George Vongerichten’s dining empire, specializing in cuisine of S.E. Asia. We found most of their courses somewhat overly spiced for our palates. We suggest beginning with a tasting plate of their signature appetizers and supplement that with sauteed foie gras, ginger and mango. We sampled entrees of bass, chicken, beef, rabbit and Thai lobster. Each had appropriate accompaniments, but none were truly exceptional. Dessert samplers were equally pleasant. A bottle of Pol Roger brut Champagne at $88.00, chosen from their appropriate wine list, went nicely with most courses. The ambiance captures colorful S.E. Asia decor. They automatically add a 20% gratuity for parties of 6 or more.

   
    Picholine *(18.5) !(4.5) $(65-105) 212-724-8585. Picholinenyc.com. 35 W. 64th St. between Broadway and Central Park W. Dinner nightly from 5:30.
    This is our favorite formal place to dine before a concert, because it’s located right across the street from Lincoln Center, and they know how to time things so that patrons get out on time to make the opening curtain. Frette linens, solid weight silver, fine china and crystal make this contemporary dining room feel quite elegant. Prelude courses included: an ordinary tasting pumpkin bisque, funny textured but tasty foie gras torchon accompanied by an over-peppered brioche toast, excellent warm lobster with mousserons and savoy cabbage, and a scrumptious wild mushroom risotto. We loved our olive oil-poached halibut, and our sea bass with oyster veloute was delightful. Since they have the best cheese selection we’ve tasted in America, we couldn’t leave without a taste of each of the following, which were all superb: Oregon classic sheep, pave d’Auge, Robiola, petit munster (France), taleggio and epoisses. A bottle of 2003 Etienne Sauzet Puligny Montrachet held up well throughout the meal. We wholeheartedly agree with the Michelin Guide’s 2-star rating.

    Gallagher’s Steak House *(14.5) !(3) $(35-75) 212-245-5426. Fax: 212-245-5426. 228 W. 52nd St. Open daily from 12:00 noon to midnight.
    1927 is the founding date for this old time off-Broadway steakhouse. Good rib eye and filet mignon beef with simple baked potatoes and steamed broccoli are just the ticket for hungry theater goers in between performances. A Heitz Cellar cabernet at $69.00 was just the right wine for the steaks.

     Angelo’s Pizza *(12) !(1) $(12-26) 212-245-8811. 1699 W. Broadway between 53rd & 54th St. 11:00 A.M.-11:00 P.M. daily.
    A fun place to get a late bite of pizza or pasta in the midtown area.

     Burger Heaven *(10) !(1) $(8-24) 212-753-4214. burgerheavenny.com. 536 Madison Ave. and 5 other Manhattan locations. 7:00 A.M.-9:00 P.M. daily.
    A 60-year old chain of no-nonsense, reliable burgers and diner foods. Good for a fast bite or to take the kids.

Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

     San Francisco

    La Folie *(19) !(4.5) $(70-105+) 415-776-5577  www.lafolie.com.  2316 Polk St.  Dinner 5:30-10:30 P.M. Mon.-Sat.
    This has long been one of our favorite restaurants for a special French feast. The dining room’s transformation from a “Folie” stage set to an elegant, contemporary venue has been striking, and the food has become a bit lighter and more delicate. Two amuse bouches of lobster beignet and truffled egg were just the right starters, and even the warm dinner rolls were quite fine. Don’t miss the toothsome tasting of “Passot Roe” with a crab and Meyer lemon parfait, Kona kampachi with a fennel radish salad, and perfectly done Maine lobster. The citrus marinated Hamachi and yellow fin tuna with shaved radish and bottarga salad was a refreshing starter. We loved the shaved Hudson Valley foie gras “shabu-shabu” (topped by a hot truffle broth to cook it a bit) with hazel nuts and anjou pear. The seared day boat scallop paired perfectly with crispy pork belly on a bed of mashed potato. Perfectly rare Millbrook farms pancetta-wrapped venison was accompanied by a slightly underdone apple-studded potato gallette and a wonderful  but tiny accent of chestnut. A rich but flavorful Kabocha pumpkin cake with kabocha and caramel ice cream completed the Menu Cuistot tasting dinner. It should be noted that fabulously aromatic black truffles could be added accordingly for $45.00  per person. The delicious warm edam cheese souffle with fromage blanc sorbet should not be missed. Even the petits fours were noteworthy. Service was informed, efficient and very pleasant. There is a well-selected domestic-imported wine list with something for everyone, and a $35.00 corkage fee is charged if you bring your own wines. A 1990 Latour Chevalier Montrachet les Damoiselles and 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild in half bottle complemented our meal perfectly.

Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

    San Francisco

    Katia’s, A Russian Tea Room*(15.5) !(3.0) $(18-44) 415-668-9292  katias.com.  600 5th Avenue at Balboa. Lunch 11:30-2:30 Wed.-Fri. Dinner from 5:00 P.M. Wed.-Sun.
    This is our favorite hide out for Russian cuisine. Their honest, simple food at reasonable prices has something for everybody. We love the traditional beet borsch and the beef or mushroom piroshki to start. They serve fabulous blini with high quality Norwegian smoked salmon, pickled herring and salmon caviar; we actually preferred to bring our own caviar and Champagne (Pol Roger 1995) to complement everything. Have a few shared entrees of shashlik (leg of lamb strips fried in a skillet) and beef Stroganoff with basmati rice before going on to a scrumptious Napoleon, toothsome blinchiki or delicious chocolate-walnut meringue torte. Remember to have some of their fine tea-in-a-glass. It can be difficult to find a parking place, so come early.

Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.
As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.
 
    The East Bay, Berkeley

    Eccolo  *(15) !(3) $(20-33 for lunch) 510-644-0444 www.eccolo.com. 1820 4th St. Lunch 11:30-4:00 and dinner daily from 5:30 (5:00 on Sunday).
    We spontaneously stopped in for a simple lunch one day. Chef-owner  Chris Lee was the chief chef downstairs at Chez Panisse for several years, and he really knows how to run a kitchen specializing in California-Mediterranean cuisine. We began with a very good appetizer of garden lettuces with toasted almonds and ricotta cheese. The roasted squash soup with creme fraiche and basil oil was just passable. We certainly enjoyed a daily special of Taccozzette (cut-up lasagna pasta)  with shrimp, tomato, garlic and parsley. The nicely seasoned Eccolo burger on homemade bread was done just the way we like it, and can be served with or without caramelized onions. An appropriate wine selection is available and corkage is $20.00.  We opted for a glass of their well balanced 2004 Barbera d’Alba “Terle”, Ronchi at $10.50 as well as an entrancing glass of 2004 Monthelie (Pinot Noir from a little-known area of Burgundy), Chateau Puligny-Montrachet at $15.00.   Easy parking is available in the lot behind the shopping area.

Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)

Our MOTTO: The development of a taste of any sort requires plodding through the overrated as well as uncovering the sublime. We hope that we can save you some plodding!!! Each listed restaurant has been personally visited by us within the previous quarter, and we have tasted each dish that we describe.

10/28/2007
After 5 years of muted reviewing, we've returned in a format that is available to the whole World and affordable to all: FREE.
Our MOTTO: The development of a taste of any sort requires plodding through the overrated as well as uncovering the sublime. We hope that we can save you some plodding!!! Each listed restaurant has been personally visited by us within the previous quarter, and we have tasted every dish that we describe.

Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)

Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

   San Francisco

   Range*(15.5) !(3.0) $(26-43) 415-282-8283 Fax=415-282-8828. www.rangesf.com.  842 Valencia St. between 19th & 20th St. Dinner 5:30-10:00 Sun.-Thurs., till 11:00 Fri. & Sat.
Come a little early and stroll through the interesting artsy shops between 19th street and this restaurant. On first impression, it looks like a small store front restaurant with an attractive bar, but then you go through the passageway, alongside  a large open kitchen, and enter a light and airy full size dining room. The staff is anxious to please and very pleasant. The egg noodle pasta appetizer with braised beef and roasted turnips was a winner, but the pedestrian duck leg confit with fig jam (didn’t taste any), walnuts and a poorly dressed, overly sweet parsnip salad could be omitted.A delicious, local rock sole with quinoa, early girl tomatoes and mussels was swimming in an excessive amount of tarragon sauce. A nicely grilled Washington Coho salmon was saved from that fate by ordering the disappointing mustard-caper vinaigrette on the side, though the kitchen did feel obligated to  add some butter sauce anyhow. The best part of the meal arrived with fabulous buckwheat crepes with huckleberries and maple ice cream. Chocoholics will revel in the bittersweet chocolate and Armagnac souffle, though an accompanying sauce was way too corn syrupy sweet. The overly floral rose geranium custard with raspberry coulis and ginger snaps was toothsome. A decent California-imported wine list is available, and corkage is $20.00. Our own bottle of 1997 Albert Grivault Meursault Perrieres was the perfect accompaniment to dinner This restaurant has potential.