http://aswelikeit.vox.com/
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.
As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.
London, England
Gordon Ramsay *(19.5) !(4.5) $(125-185) Tel.=020-7352-4441 Fax=020-7352-3334, www.gordonramsay.com, 68 Royal Hospital Road, SW3 4HP, Mon.-Fri.: Lunch=12-2:30 PM, Dinner=6:30-11:00PM.
We loved his New York (Michelin 2-star rated) restaurant so much, that we had to dine at this venue, his Michelin 3-star rated crown jewel on his home turf. And we were not disappointed. Exquisite preparations of prime ingredients were served flawlessly in elegant dishes with regal tableware. Scrumptious starters included: ravioli of lobster, langoustine and salmon poached in a light bisque; quail and foie gras pithivier with wild mushrooms; butter-poached Scottish lobster tail with chestnut lasagne, trompettes de la mort, baby spinach and black truffles; sautéed foie gras with roasted veal sweetbreads; and pressed foie gras with confit chicken and Périgord truffles. Main courses were “to die for”, each dish delicately balanced to showcase the ingredients in perfect harmony: roasted fillet of line-caught turbot with langoustines, linguine and wild mushrooms; pan-fried, line-caught sea bass with steamed charlotte potatoes, cucumber, oyster beignet and caviar velouté; oven-roasted Bresse pigeon with grilled polenta, crispy lardons, braised shallots, baby golden beetroot and date sauce; Cornish lamb with confit shoulder, provençale vegetables, baby spinach and thyme jus; and roasted saddle of Highland venison with roasted pumpkin and quince. Next came a perfectly aged selection of cheeses, followed by our favorite dessert, and one that makes the trip to London or New York worthwhile, caramelised tarte Tatin of apples with vanilla ice cream (for two). The encyclopedic wine list contained the following selections that complemented dinner exquisitely: Bollinger Champagne ($105.), P. Pernot Puligny Montrachet ($105) and a Corton Bressande ($150). Call 2 months in advance between 10:00 AM and 3:30 PM to book a table, and be prepared to leave your credit card information (a good way to prevent no-shows), which will not be charged if you cancel properly. For those of you wishing for a less expensive way to share in the Gordom Ramsay experience, he operates these other London restaurants: Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s (Michelin 1-star), Boxwood Cafe, Maze (Michelin 1-star), Maze Grill, Foxtrot Oscar (bistro), Murano, York & Albany and 3 pubs (The Narrow, The Devonshire and the Warrington). It seems that you can spend a week and a half dining in different Gordon Ramsay places with varied styles and prices. We look forward to trying them all.
Brasserie Roux in the Sofitel Hotel *(17) !(3.5) $(30-65) Tel.=(0)20 7747 2200, http://www.sofitelstjames.com/brasserieroux/brasserieroux.html, 8 Pall Mall, Daily= 6:30 AM-11.30 PM.
This one hundred-seat restaurant offers classic French brasserie cuisine in an atmosphere of informal elegance. With its long hours, it is available whenever people are interested in eating. We enjoyed the French onion soup, pike quenelle with Nantua sauce, duck foie gras with fig chutney, organic Scottish salmon with smoked salmon, spit-roasted free range chicken, pot au feu and roasted woodcock with wild mushrooms. Save room for desserts of: creme caramel a l’orange or rum baba with caramelized pineapple. An appropriate wine list exists, and service is attentive.
The Wolseley *(15) !(3.5) $(15-68) Tel.=020-7499-6996, 160 Piccadilly, Mon-Fri.=7:00 AM-Midnight, Sat.=8:00 AM-Midnight, Sun.=8:00 AM-11:00 PM.
They offer a lunch and dinner menu as well as menus in the Grand Café tradition at different times throughout the day including breakfast, morning pastries, afternoon tea and an all day menu with sandwiches, salads, crustacea and plats du jour. It’s such a popular place, that we were only able to book a fine English breakfast there on one occasion; they were fully booked otherwise. The rather formal, elegant setting contrasts with the slow, inefficient service. Looks like a fun place for high tea, but we couldn’t get reservations, even with a week’s notice.
Richoux *(14.5) !(3.5) $(15-50) Tel.=0207-493-2204, 172 Piccadilly, Mon.-Fri.=8:00 AM-11:00 PM, Sat.= till 11:30 PM, Sun.=9:00 AM-11:00 PM.
The Richoux team runs 4 restaurants in London, but this location was around the corner from our lodgings, and it proved a reliable place for delicious English breakfasts with pancakes, eggs any fashion, sausage, meaty bacon, beans and black pudding. Lunch proved popular with spaghetti carbonara, curried chicken and risotto with chicken. Pick some delicious patisseries from the front counter to enjoy with your coffee. You don’t need to reserve, they alway seem to be able to seat you, even if there is a queue. The English equivalent of a brasserie decor make for a pleasant atmosphere.
Yauatcha *(17.5) !(3) $(24-75) Tel.=020 7494 8888, www.yauatcha.com, 15-17 Broadwick Street, Soho W1F 0DL, Mon.-Sat.=12:00 Noon-11:45 PM, Sun. till 10:30 PM.
This is part luxury dim sum restaurant and part tea-house with a French-Oriental patisserie counter. Unlike in California, the dishes don’t come around on a tray or cart, but you order them directly from the menu, along with the rest of the primarily Cantonese courses. And also unlike California, the servers are not of oriental origin, but rather attractive, young people who seem like they’re waiting for a Hollywood producer to discover them. The dim sum is first class with some modern variations, and it deserves its Michelin 1-star rating. We loved several variations of dumplings, pork rolls, venison puffs, smoked duck with Chinese pancakes, pot stickers, noodle dishes and selections from the upstairs pastry counter. The choice location to sit is downstairs with glass sparkly “stars” shining from the walls and ceiling and a huge fish tank over the bar.
Locanda Locatelli *(18.5) !(3.5) $(34-89) Tel.=0207-935-9088, www.locanalocatelli.com, 8 Seymour St., W1H 7JZ, Lunch=12:00-3:00 daily, Dinner from 6:45 PM nightly.
This delightful, Michelin 1-star rated restaurant nicely satisfied our desire for a special Italian-London dinner in an elegant, contemporary setting. Hearty soups included a vegetable-packed minestrone and a superb tortellini in brodo. House-made pastas were combined with perfect complements in the pappardelle with wild boar ragu and the tagliatelle with kid goat ragu. Quail risotto with grana padano cheese was another of our favorites, as was their preparation of kid goat with roasted vegetables. Leave room for scrumptious desserts of: tiramisu; apple tart with chocolate chip ice cream; savarin with coconut ice cream and pineapple; montebianco (moscovado sponge, vanilla whipped cream and chestnut ice cream); and tasting of “Amedei” chocolates. The service was top notch, as was their wonderful wine selection from which we enjoyed a 2001 Barbaresco Riserva Vigneti In Pora Produttori Del Barbaresco ($135) and a 2004 Barolo Bussia, Prunotto ($135).
Le Cafe Anglais *(15.5) !(2.5) $(35-74) Tel.=020-7721-1415, www.lecafeanglais.co.uk, 8 Porchester Gardens, Bayswater, W2 4DB, Open daily= 12-3.30 PM, 6.30-11.30PM.
This transformation of a second floor McDonalds branch into a British brasserie has its plusses (decent grilled halibut and chocolate soufflé) and minuses (inedible foie gras terrine and inefficient service). The oysters were good, and the chicken liver flan was enjoyable. Chicken with garlic and rosemary was just okay, as was the rack of lamb with rosemary, garlic and tarbais beans. A custard tart with prunes was pleasant, as was the pear belle Helene. There is a reasonably priced, appropriate wine selection from which we chose Louis Roederer brut Champagne NV ($100) and 2003 Patrick Jasmin Cote Roti ($100); they were a fine accompaniment to dinner. The restaurant is located in an interesting, commercial, multi-ethnic neighborhood.
Wild Honey *(17) !(3) $(41-66) Tel.=020-7758-9160, http://www.wildhoneyrestaurant.co.uk, 12 St. George St., W1S 2FB, Lunch daily from 12:00 noon, Dinner from 6:00 PM nightly.
This Michelin 1-star rated restaurant specializes in serving fresh seasonal produce at reasonable prices in an oak-panelled, old English atmosphere. We savored the soup of potato, organic hen’s egg and radish shoots. Ravioli of English veal, butternut squash and fresh sheep ricotta was stellar, but the chicken and duck terrine was less successful. A warm salad of winter vegetables with olive oil and rosemary highlighted their fresh, seasonal produce claim-to-fame. They certainly did a fine job with the grilled beef rib (for 2 persons) garnished with Anna potatoes. Roast young chicken and traditional Marseille-style bouillabaisse were well prepared. There was a properly aged cheese course to precede scrumptious desserts of: vanilla cheesecake with Yorkshire rhubarb; “pain perdu” (French toast) with apples and golden sultanas; warm chocolate soup with milk ice cream; and their namesake wild honey ice cream with crushed honeycomb. We chose a Billecart Salmon brut reserve NV ($80) and a 2001 Chateau Batailley, grand cru classé, Pauillac ($105.) from the well-selected, well-priced wine list.
The Capital Restaurant in the Capital Hotel *(18.5) !(4) $(75-105) Tel.=(0)20-7589-5171, http://www.capitalhotel.co.uk/restaurantbar.html, 22 BASIL STREET, LONDON SW3 1AT, Lunch and dinner daily as well as afternoon tea from 3-5:30 PM.
We had dined here 10 years ago and remarked about an inattentive sommelier, but on this visit the sommelier was omnipresent and the other servers should have been more attentive. They deserve their Michelin 2-star rating for their fine food preparation combining English ingredients with superb French technique in a relatively formal atmosphere. Start with the crab lasagne with langoustine cappuccino, or the pan-fried foie gras with rhubarb, or even a warm quail salad. That will get you ready for the fine entrees of: Grilled turbot with mushroom ravioli; saddle of rabbit ‘Provençale’, seared calamari and tomato risotto; Pigeon “d’Anjou” with garniture ‘Grand -Mère’; or fillet of lamb with cumin jus and spicy couscous. Intrigueing desserts included: iced coffee parfait with warm chocolate fondant; cheesecake with orange caramel and caramelized hazelnut ice cream; litchi baba with coconut sorbet and exotic foam; and vanilla pearls with roasted banana, rum pannacotta and mango sorbet. The international wine list is quite extensive and expensive.
Le Cafe du Jardin *(15) !(3) $(35-55) Tel.=020-7836-8769, Fax=020-7836-4123, http://www.lecafedujardin.com/, 28 Wellington St., Covent Garden, WC2E 7BD, Daily=12:00 Noon-12:00 Midnight.
Convenient to the Opera, this informal venue is fine for any time of the day for a simply prepared meal. The downstairs room is quieter for visiting with friends, but upstairs is more lively. Start with a warm salad of ham hock with a soft-poached free range egg, or deep fried crab cake with spring onion risotto, or even crayfish risotto with caramelised red onions and shaved parmesan. Interesting entrees included: beef Bourguignon with smoked bacon and cauliflower puree; char-grilled rib eye of Scotch beef with pommes frites, grilled tomato, mushrooms and béarnaise sauce; rare-grilled fillet of ostrich with sauted new potatoes and red peppers, mushroom duxelle and a port reduction; and crispy skin fillet of sea bass with caramelised fennel and brown butter. Pleasant desserts included: lemon tart, chocolate tart, fruit crumble, chocolate mousse and sticky toffee pudding. Service was adequate, as was their wine list from which we chose a Chablis 1er Cru Vau Ligneau (Domaine Thierry Hamelin) 2006 ($54) and a Chateau Lucas (Lussac, St. Emilion) 2004 ($45).
Arlington House Tel.=011-44-207-629-0021 from USA, 25 Arlington St. off Piccadilly.
We find this small building of flats in the Mayfair District to be a great location just down the block from the Ritz Hotel. There was always a taxi available when we needed one, and it’s only 2 blocks from the Green Park Underground tube station. The flats range from 1-3 bedrooms, and prices/availability vary with the season. Reservations can be made through regentsuites.com with a USA telephone=1-800-513-0010; they are also a good source of flats in other areas of London.
http://aswelikeit.vox.com/
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.
As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.
Las Vegas, NV
Picasso at the Bellagio Hotel *(19.5) !(5) $(95-140) Tel.=866-259-7111 or 702-693-7223, 3600 S. Las Vegas Blvd. Dinner Wed.-Mon.=6:00-9:30 PM.
One of the best restaurants in the world, this 2-star Michelin rated venue is definitely deserving of a third star. While other Las Vegas chefs originate menus and oversee operations, Julian Serrano is working hard in the restaurant to turn out fabulous dinners almost every night. The menu degustation began with a striking arrangement amuse bouche with Scottish smoked salmon, potato leek soup and golden osetra caviar. Maine lobster salad with apple-Champagne vinaigrette was ambrosia, and the langoustine salad with roasted zucchini, crispy artichoke, tomato confit and piquillo pepper vinaigrette was awsome. Pan seared U-10 scallop with cream of carrot and ginger was exciting. A memorable Kobe beef filet mignon with potatoes mousseline and seasonal vegetables can’t be beat. A well aged cheese selection preceded exciting desserts of warm chocolate fondant with chocolate caramel ice cream and warm apricot strudel with mirabelle plum parfait and apricot chamomile sorbet. We chose fabulous bottles (2000 Henri Clerc Bienvenue-Batard Montrachet and 1990 Chateau Pichon Longueville Lalande, Pauillac) from their outstanding, but reasonable, wine list. Knowledgeable, attentive service, museum quality picasso paintings, elegant table settings and a view of the fountains and the Eiffel Tower complete the picture for a perfect dinner.
Bouchon *(17.5) !(3.5) $(35-83) Tel.=702-414-6200, 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Breakfast daily= 7:00-10:30 AM, Dinner nightly 5:00-10:30 PM. Brunch Sat,-Sun.= 8:00-2:00.
They have recreated the perfect Paris Brasserie in Las Vegas, as well as its sister venue in Yountville. The raw bar is terrific, as are their rillettes, quiche, soups and salads. We loved their coq au vin, grouper and duck breast, and the kids were happy with the macaroni. Save room for desserts of bouchon chocolate cakes, pot de creme, doughnuts, profiterolles, creme brulee and chocolate mousse. A very appropriate wine list included the delicious Morey Meursault Perrieres at $199.00.
B and B in the Venetian Hotel*(13.5) !(3) $(35-105) Tel.=702-266-9977, 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Dinner 5-11:00 PM nightly.
As you walk past the gondoliers in this recreation of Venice, you look forward to a decent Italian meal from experienced restauranteurs Mario Batali and Joseph Bastianich. The dining room is attractive enough, but the inept servers had difficulty in even getting bread to the table, no less attending to the sophisticated menu that is presented. Minestrone soup is adequate as are their pastas (beef cheek ravioli and pappardelle Bolognese) and entrees (grilled quail, squab and veal chop), but we didn’t bother staying for dessert. There is a decent wine selection and an efficient sommelier.
http://aswelikeit.vox.com/
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.
As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.
New York City, NY
Gordon Ramsay at the London Hotel *(18.5) !(4.5) $(50-150) Tel.=212-468-8888, 151 W. 54th St. between 6th and 7th Ave., Lunch Mon.-Fri., Dinner nightly.
Call 2 months in advance at 9:00 AM to book a table at this 45-seat 2-star Michelin rated restaurant. White tablecloths and elegant table settings are included in its contemporary decor. A fine combination of sauteed Maine diver scallops with braised veal cheeks came with Tahitian vanilla and parsnip cream.
Pressed Hudson Valley foie gras (actually a mousse) was garnished with tapioca and calvados jelly, candied ginger and toasted sourdough. A stunning ginger poached Maine lobster with herbed linguini, baby leeks, trompette royale mushrooms and white port sauce was matched in quality by Caramelized duck breast with red wine glazed figs, beluga lentils and chicken liver rillette. The best Tart tatin we’ve ever had was a perfect finishing touch. Fine service and a comprehensive wine list made for a delightful dinner, so much so that we booked a dinner at the crown jewel Gordon Ramsay in London to be reviewed shortly.
Bouley *(19) !(4.5) $(60-140) Tel.=212-964-2525, 163 Duane St. at Hudson, Lunch daily= 11:30-3.00, Dinner nightly 5:00-11:30 PM.
This is one of the few places where we needed multiple wines for our diverse courses and trusted the sommelier to deliver a wine pairing with our degustation dinner. We began with enchanting starters of phyllo-crusted Florida shrimp, baby squid, Cape Cod scallop and sweet Maryland crab meat in an ocean herbal broth (CA sauvignon blanc), as well as 24-hour cooked Greenmarket tomato terrine with creme fraiche and walnut vinaigrette (Spanish white). We certainly enjoyed our fish: line caught Chatham codfish with baby violet artichokes, pak choi, salsify, Hawaiian hearts of palm local white corn and black truffle broth (Pillot St-Romain); and potato-encrusted Mediterranean rouget with Iranian saffron risotto, rose olive sauce and a parmesan cloud (Chenin blanc from Languedoc). The chef sent extra marvelous extra potato puree to accompany our: Maine day boat lobster with Honshimeji mushrooms, pencil asparagus, Hawaiian hearts of palm, pomegranate reduction and port-paprika wine sauce ( Marange, 1er cru Colin 2005); and Bobo Farms squab and foie gras wrapped in savoy cabbage with foie gras ravioli, yellow oyster mushrooms, port-glazed red pearl onions and artichoke puree (Australian red). A refreshing coconut soup with pineapple granité (Poiré sparkling Normandy wine) preceeded delectable desserts: strawberry-rhubarb gratin with creme de cassis, honey and white asparagus ice cream (Canadian late harvest wine); and Valrhona chocolate soufflé with Vermont maple ice cream, vanilla ice cream and chocolate sorbet (Spanish wine similar to Banyuls).
Le Bernardin *(19.5) !(4.5) $(107-185) Tel.=212-554-1515, 155 W. 51st St. between 6-7th Ave., Lunch=Mon.-Fri. Dinner Mon.-Sat.
What an interesting way for this Michelin 3-star rated restaurant to aggregate its courses: “almost raw” included fabulous combinations of tuna (layers of thinly pounded yellowfin tuna, foie gras and toasted baguette, shaved chives and extra virgin olive oil) or black bass (black bass tartare Mediterranean style, olives, citrus, fennel and marjoram); “barely touched” included spiny lobster (warm lobster carpaccio, young ginger-matsutake mushroom salad and vanilla-citrus oil) and Tuna (seared and marinated yellowfin tuna tartare sandwich with ginger and lime); and “lightly cooked” monkfish (nicely pan-roasted monkfish with an overpowering celeriac black truffle emulsion and red wine-brandy sauce) and wild striped bass-langoustine (stellar preparation of baked langoustine and striped bass with confit tomato agnolotti, bouillabaise consommé and curry emulsion). Perfectly ripe cheeses preceded very enjoyable desserts of rhubarb-citrus (sablé Breton, rhubarb compote, orange, grapefruit and creme fraiche sorbet) and carrot (rum scented carrot cake, golden raisins, Sicilian pistachio, condensed milk ice cream), followed by artistic, delightful petits fours. Frette linens, regal china and tableware, shogi screening of windows, hanging pale wooden beams, lovely floral arrangements and attractive oil paintings with maritime themes made for a warm contemporary atmosphere. Attentive service and an extensive wine list, from which we chose a 2005 Henri Germain Meursault Perrieres at $220.00 made the picture complete.
The Russian Tea Room *(14) !(3.5) $(35-100) Tel.=212-581-7100 russiantearoomnyc.com, 150 W. 57 St., Mon.-Sat. Lunch =11:30-3:00, High tea=2-4:30 and Dinner 4:45-11:00.
This colorful, romantic dining room with beautiful samovars scattered throughout the space and early 20th century Russian art works on the walls is a place to savor its history and enjoy the gracious tea service. Apricot and chocolate blintzes were pedestrian, as were the strawberries Romanoff.
Daniel *(19) !(4) $(98-185) Tel.=212-288-0033 Fax=212-396-9014 www.danielnyc.com, 60 E. 65th St. between Madison and Park, Dinner from 5:45 PM Mon.-Sat.
There was no room for us in the elegant, contemporary main dining room, so we were seated in the intimate, semi-formal atmosphere of the lounge, where they serve the same Michelin 2-star menu with great service. We loved the appetizer of Peekytoe crab with green and yellow curry, Hawaiian hearts of palm, pickled mango and cashew pistou. The pistachio crusted duck foie gras terrine with blood orange, fennel bavarois and arugula salad was unforgettable. We couldn’t resist a tasting of white asparagus from Provence, poached with crispy prosciutto, egg-mustard dressing, velouté with savory cream and espelette oil. Make sure to leave room for the striking chocolate upside-down soufflé. A 2002 Leflaive Bienvenue Batard Montrachet at $330.00 was chosen from their extensive list to complement our dinner beautifully.
Cafe Boulud *(18) !(3.5) $(45-89) Tel.=212-772-2600, 20 E. 76 St. between 5th and Madison in the Surrey Hotel, Lunch Tues.-Sat.=12:00-2:30, Brunch Sun.=11:30-2:30, Dinner from 5:45 PM nightly.
This is the place to go for a relaxed dinner in a serene setting. Start with the seared foie gras with quince or braised beef ravioli with mustard froth. Pan roasted halibut “Dieppoise” with Puy lentils, cauliflower, and saffron mussel emulsion is recommended for fish lovers, while seared muscovy duck breast or pancetta wrapped venison loin would excite the meat enthusiasts. Molten chocolate cake or honey crisp apple strudel with walnut ice cream will send you out in the world smiling.
Bar Boulud *(17) !(2.5) $(35-82) Tel.=212-595-0303, 1900 Broadway between 63rd and 64th St., Lunch Mon.-Fri.=12:00-2:30, Brunch Sat.-Sun.=11:00-2:30, Dinner from 5:00 PM nightly and open till 10:00 Sun.,11:00 Mon.-Thurs., Midnight Fri.-Sat. with cheese and charcuterie till 1:00 AM.
This is Daniel Boulud’s homage to classical French brasserie/bistro cooking with some of the best charcuterie around; paté grand pére (coarse country paté with foie gras, truffle juice and port) was our favorite. Follow that with some fine coq au vin or grilled sea bass, a bit of well aged cheese and memorable desserts of apple tart or ile flottante. Simple decor with closely placed tables reminds us of its French counterparts. Being located across the street from Lincoln Center makes this a perfect place for pre- or post-theater dining.
Adour (Alain Ducasse) *(19.5) !(5) $(56-150) Tel.=212-710-2277 Fax=212-350-8722 www.adourstregis.com, 2 E. 55th St. at 5th Ave., Dinner from 5:30 PM nightly.
This Michelin 2-star Ducasse restaurant continues to deliver the same wonderful dining experience that we have enjoyed in his other places previously. We were fortunately in town for their white truffle tasting menu, starting with exceptional grilled day boat scallops tartuffi, followed by their striking white truffle pasta impression and continuing with a marvelous milk fed veal loin with shaved Alba truffles. Amazing gustatory sensations were created by our dessert of Asian/Bartlett pear, soft almond cake, granité, vin jaune and white truffle foam. This elegant, timeless dining room in the St. Regis Hotel is equipped with the finest linens and table settings, and the service is informed and flawless. Naturally the wine list is world class, as are the prices.
l’Atelier Robuchon *(19) !(4.5) $(35-82) Tel.=212-350-6658 Fax=212-893-6882, 57 E. 57th St. between Park and Madison in the Four Season’s Hotel, Dinner 5:30-10:30 PM nightly.
We have been fans of Chef Joel Robuchon for many years and are happy to find his intimate 46 seat restaurant with its open kitchen to be so satisfying. Half the seats are at the counter, so you can watch the food being prepared; the others are at banquettes scattered around the room. Contemporary decor with Asian touches and elegant tableware are a fine setting for the menu which includes old favorites and interesting new adventures in food preparation. Start with some free range caramelized quail stuffed with foie gras or foie gras ravioli in warm chicken and oriental herb broth; perhaps you’d enjoy spaghetti with shaved parmesan, poached egg and black truffle? Entrees of sea bass and turbot each had a tantalizing taste of black truffle. Finish up with some rice pudding or a fruit of the season tart. The wine list is extensive, and service is knowledgeable and attentive.
San Domenico *() !() $() Tel.=none, 240 Central Park S. near Broadway.
This bastion of old style Italian cooking has closed, so we won’t bother detailing the delicious dinner we enjoyed.
Sarabeth’s *(14.5) !(2.5) $(29-56) Tel.=212-410-7335, 1295 Madison Ave. at 92nd St., Daily=8:00 AM-11:00 PM, Sun.-9:30 PM.
This multi-branched, popular American restaurant is fine for any time of the day for a simply prepared meal. Start with a salad or soup of the season and follow with some diver scallops, liver or rib eye steak before an uncomplicated dessert.
Omni Berkshire Hotel Tel.=212-753-5800, 21 E. 52nd St. at Madison.
We find this to be a great location for a relatively small New York hotel. The rooms are of decent size, and the prices are not too outrageous, depending on the season.
http://aswelikeit.vox.com/
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main
course; full= best available multi-course meal.
As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.
San Francisco, CA
Hayes Street Grill *(17.5) !(3) $(28-49) Tel.=415-863-5545, 320 Hayes between
Gough and Franklin, Lunch Mon.-Fri= 11:30-2:00, Dinner from 5:00 PM nightly except from
5:30=Saturday
This 30 year old landmark restaurant is the dining base for knowledgeable
patrons before performances in the Concert-Opera-Ballet venues. The staff
really knows how to move people in and out to get them to their respective
theaters on time. And the food is nourishing and delicious. Generous portions
of starters we have enjoyed include: green salad with sherry-shallot vinaigrette
(order sauce on the side and add to taste); fabulous mushroom-celery soup;
Caesar salad (one of the best around); grilled Hoffman quail salad with varying
fruit accompaniments, e.g., grilled figs, cherries, persimmons, or fuji apples
and chicories; autumn tomato salad with feta, cucumbers and olives; Oregon
bay shrimp and avocado salad with green beans and egg; cracked local half
dungeness crab (when in season) with avocado and citrus salad; grilled
scallops, asparagus and citrus salad. Grilled marinated Monterey sardines were
tasty but marred by the multitude of tiny bones, and smoked trout toasts were
overly dressed. They do an excellent job with grilled fish that are garnished
with fine French fries and a choice of sauce; we usually substitute a simple
white rice for the fries and order the sauce on a separate dish. They slightly
undercook the fish, so order them cooked-through if you prefer. We loved the
New Zealand blue nose sea bass, wild Quinault steelhead, Hawaiian long line
ono, Alaska coho salmon, Alaska Halibut, and California white sea bass. Other
main courses we have enjoyed include: Ft. Bragg petrale sole, grilled scallops
with white corn and vegetables, Eastern sole with new potatoes and Oregon
chanterelles, and Tuscan style Alaskan halibut with artichokes and potatoes.
Desserts are straight forward and delicious; we usually split a hot fudge sundae
with toasted pecans, but have been known to savor an apple-rhubard or applecherry-
pecan crisp with vanilla ice cream, or a Meyer lemon tart with
huckleberry sauce. There is a reasonably priced and appropriate wine selection
and corkage is $20.00. Their tables with white table cloths and butcher block
paper are packed together for maximum seating capacity, but the sound levels
are not intrusive. They fill up almost every night, so reserve in advance; they
take reservations 3 weeks in advance after 10:30 AM. There is also a first-come
first-serve bar area that serves the regular menu, but you usually have to come
very early to get a seat. They also offer a “prime time” prix fixe 3-course dinner
for $33 Sunday-Thursday after 7:30 PM.
Katia’s Russian Tea Room *(16.5) !(2.5) $(23-65) Tel.=415-668-9292, 600 5th
Avenue at Balboa, Lunch Wed.-Fri= 11:30-2:30, Dinner from 5:00 PM Wed.-Sun.
Start with some beet borsch or mushroom-barley-potato soup and follow
with little bites (zakuski) of piroshki, vareniki or pelmeni to pass around the
table. Our favorite is the blini selection with smoked salmon, etc. We also like
to bring our own caviar for the blini. Beef stroganoff, veal cutlets, lamb shashlik
and poached sturgeon are recommended entrees. Save room for the blinchiki or
Napoleon desserts. Street parking can be challenging.
Jardiniere *(17.5) !(3.5) $(54-125) Tel.=415-861-5555, 300 Grove St., at Franklin,
Dinner from 5:00 PM nightly.
This is a more formal restaurant for your pre- or post-concert meal, and
it is most conveniently located across the street from the Symphony and Opera
Halls with valet parking available. We savored the foie gras terrine with
caramelized pineapple and macadamia nuts to start. Highly recommended are
the Maine diver scallops with cauliflower, golden raisins, coconut and lemon
grass nage, as well as Liberty Farms duck breast with turnips, bok choy, blood
orange and tamarind-date puree. Enjoyable desserts included a dark chocolate
cake and a rhubarb-frangipane tart with pistachio ice cream and vanilla
custard. There is an expensive, extensive wine list, and corkage is $25.
Boulevard *(18) !(4) $(46-80) Tel.=415-543-6084 Fax=415-495-2936
boulevardrestaurant.com, One Mission St. at Steuart, Lunch Mon.-Fri.=11:30-2:00, Dinner
from 5:00 PM nightly.
The delightful art deco setting makes you feel like you are in a Paris
Brasserie. Make sure to reserve in advance, because it’s one of the most popular
places in town. Outstanding starters included squab breast (with potato ravioli)
and pan seared Sonoma foie gras with honey poached quince and toasted
chocolate spice bread. Also enjoyed were the Monterey calamari stuffed with
crab and lobster, as well as an heirloom Tamworth proscuitto course. Wood
roasted rack of lamb was fabulous, and the pan roasted guinea hen was
delightful. Leave room for some delicious apple terrine or quince cake. There is
a fine but pricey wine list with a $25. corkage fee. Valet parking is available.
Fleur de Lys *(19.5) !(5) $(90-150) Tel.=415-673-7779 Fax=415-673-4619, 777
Sutter St. at Jones, Dinner from 6:00 PM Mon.-Sat.
Romance oozes from every corner of this wonderful restaurant with its
beautiful decor, seamless service and world class wine list. You can’t go wrong
with a symphony of appetizers or the salmon soufflé “Paul Haeberlin”. The
boneless quail stuffed with ris de veau (sweetbreads) is “to die for” as is the
seared filet mignon with a lobster truffled “mac & cheese” en brioche. Duck
lovers will be happy to find a muscovy duck breast on savoy cabbage with
cream of celery root. An assortment of fine cheeses is the perfect complement
to those last few ounces in your wine glass. We go back and forth at to whether
we prefer the Grand Marnier or the chocolate soufflé for dessert. Corkage is
$35. Valet parking is available.
Dining Room at the Ritz Carlton *(18.5) !(4.5) $(45-125) Tel.=415-773-6198, 600
Stockton St. between California and Pine, Dinner from 6:00 PM Tues.-Sat.
This is the place to go for an elegant dinner in a serene setting. For
maximal conversational abilities ask to be seated away from the harp player. We
loved all of these appetizers: chilled pea soup, sashimi of kampachi, chilled
foie gras and abalone. Well executed entrees included foie gras medallions with
rhubarb terrine, potato crusted moi, black cod with suckling pig, Sonoma duck
breast, poussin and veal chop with sweetbread medallion. Desserts are usually
first rate. You can’t beat the wine selection or service, and the corkage is $35.
Valet parking is available.
La Terrasse*(15.5) !(2.5) $(22-48) Tel.=415-922-3463, 215 Lincoln Blvd. at Graham St. on the Presidio of San Francisco, Breakfast Mon.-Fri.= 7:00-10:45 AM, Brunch Sat.=11.00-4:00 PM, Sun. =10:00-4:00, Lunch Mon.-Fri= 11:00-4:00, Dinner= 5:00-10:00 PM nightly.
We find this to be a delightful bistro for lunch to enjoy their generous, flavorful foie gras torchon as well as the moules frites with Pernod, salad nicoise with grilled tuna, sauteed prawns provencal and onion soup gratinee. Pot de creme and vanilla millefeuille were fine finishing touches. We look forward to trying their breakfasts, brunches and dinners in the future. An appropriate but limited wine selection is available and corkage is $25.
La Folie*(18.5) !(4) $(75-110) Tel.=415-776-5577, 2316 Polk St. between Green and Union, Dinner only= 5:30-10:30 PM Mon.-Sat.
Who could resist beautifully seared Hudson Valley Foie gras with wild Oregon huckleberries or cauliflower soup with lobster knuckles and curried pears? We loved the pan seared Tai snapper with jus de bouillabaisse and thought the trio of rabbit (loin, rack and braised leg) with natural jus to be delightful. Black mission fig tarte tatin is a marvelous innovation on one of our favorite desserts. An exceptional wine list has something for everybody, and corkage is $35. Valet parking is available.
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main
course; full= best available multi-course meal.
As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.
Los Angeles Area, CA
Cut *(18.5) !(4) $(42-220) Tel.=310-276-8500 Fax=310-276-8502
www.wolfgangpuck.com/restaurants/finedining/cut/beverlyhills/. 9500 Wilshire
Boulevard at Rodeo in the Regent Beverly Wilshire Hotel, Beverly Hills,
Dinner Mon.-Sat= 5:30-10:00 P.M.
A repeat visit reaffirmed our previous feelings that this superb, expensive
steak restaurant is terrific. Delightful starters included: bone marrow flan with
mushroom marmalade and parsley salad; honey crisp and fuji apple salad with
fennel, red endive, Medjool dates, Marcona almonds and shaved parmesan;
shaved palm hearts, Shropshire cheddar, confit cherry tomatoes, watercress and
shaved parmesan; and Austrian oxtail bouillon, chive blossoms, chervil and
bone marrow dumplings. We loved the bone-in rib eye steak. Excellent panroasted
Maine lobster and slow-simmered whole French sea bass with warm
cherry tomato vinaigrette show that the kitchen performs admirably with nonsteak
entrees. Order sides of the following to enhance enjoyment of the main
courses: herbed French fries, yukon gold potato puree, baby eggplant gratin
and caramelized cauliflower. Leave room for the tantalizing desserts of: passion
fruit ice cream baked Alaska with tangerine and vanilla sauce; dark chocolate
soufflé with gianduja ice cream; creme brulee baby banana cream pie; and
chocolate bar with layered chocolate mousse and coffee ice cream. The wine
list is fabulous but expensive. Corkage is $35.00
.
Fraiche Restaurant and Lounge *(15.5) !(3) $(32-52) Tel.=Fax=310-839-6800
www.fraicherestaurantla.com. 9411 Culver Boulevard at Main, Culver City, Lunch and
Dinner daily.
This pleasant neighborhood venue is just the right place for a relaxed lunch or dinner. Start
with the baby beets, hazelnuts, mache and house-made ricotta or go directly to the enjoyable
pastas of rigatoni with lamb bolognese and rosemary or risotto with bacon confit and chanterelle
mushrooms. Delicious comfort food entrees included braised rabbit with green olives, tomatoes,
braised artichokes, semolina and sformato as well as steak frites (seared flat iron steak with hand cut
fries). Decent desserts included an apple crepe with maple ice cream and a gianduja semifreddo.
An appropriate wine selection is offered. Corkage is $15 for the first bottle and $25 for the second.
Nate’n Al *(16.5) !(1) $(12-28) Tel.=310-274-0101 Fax=310-274-0485
www.natenal.com. 414 N. Beverly Dr. at Brighton Way, Beverly Hills, 7:00 A.M.-9:00 P.M.
daily except for Jewish Holidays.
This is our favorite Jewish deli; it beats our last trial of NYC delis. The chicken noodle soup
with matzoh balls and noodles is “to die for”. Favorite sandwiches include corned beef, pastrami,
chopped liver and turkey, each accompanied by their great pickles and cole slaw or potato salad. If
you eat at a popular time, prepare for a long wait. Reservations are only taken for parties of 6 or
more. Make sure to get your name on the list at the cashier’s desk as soon as you arrive.
Providence *(17.5) !(3.5) $(55-160) Tel.=323-460-4170 Fax= 323-460-4491 5955
Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, Lunch served Friday only, Dinner nightly.
Elegant contemporary decor sets the stage for an enjoyable evening of dining. They have
been awarded 2 stars in the 2009 Michelin Guide. Appetizers included: fine ingredients but overly
sauced lobster risotto with porcini mushrooms, parsley, tomato and lobster jus; a thick slice of
perfectly done foie gras a la plancha with Kyoto grapes, white balsamic and crispy buckwheat
brittle; and superb salt roasted spot prawns. A nicely done wild halibut had an excessive basil
crust and was garnished with tomato compote, little neck clam tempura and roasted baby
artichokes. A fabulous tenderloin of veal with chanterelles needed a simple rice for balance instead
of the torpedo onion and celery root puree. Intriguing desserts included burnt caramel ice cream
with chocolate, ginger bread and pears, as well as sous-vide jonalicious apple with barley ice
cream, pine nut puree and north star dried cherries. There is an excellent wine selection and
corkage is $30.
Sona Restaurant *(18) !(3.5) $(78-169) Tel.=310-659-7708 Fax=310-360-7965
www.sonarestaurant.com 401 N. La Cienega Blvd. at Westmount, West Hollywood, Dinner
Tuesday-Saturday from 6:00 PM.
We savored our 6-course Découverte menu from the outstanding tastes and presentations
of the amuses bouches to the final touches in this attractive Michelin-starred establishment.
Fabulous aji and wild albacore sashimi were followed by excellent Maine lobster risotto, black
chicken and seared foie gras. A tasty peach mousse and warm rice pudding followed the very fine
venison and Elysian Field lamb courses. We loved the chocolate creme with bacon vinaigrette,
caramelized banana and burnt milk ice cream, but were disappointed by the chocolate panna cotta.
The wonderful breads are of special note, especially the mini baguette and berry roll. The wine list
is incredible and well priced with an extensive selection of half bottles (including the 1999 Leoville
Barton at $83. Corkage is $30.