3 posts from May 2009

http://aswelikeit.vox.com/
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

    San Francisco Bay Area, CA

    Redwood City

     Old Port Lobster Shack *(16) !(1.5) $(18-64) Tel.= 650-366-2400, Fax= 650-366-4658, http://oplobster.com/index.htm, 851 Veterans Boulevard, Open Monday-Saturday continuously from 11:30 AM till 8:30-9:00 PM, Sunday=12:00 Noon-8:00 PM.
    Started by a lobster professional from Maine, the steamed 1.25 pound Maine lobster special is first rate (worthy of a *19 food rating), the best we’ve discovered locally, and a bargain at $32.75 (or $60.00 for 2). It comes with a nut cracker, lobster fork and bib. Next time we’ll bring our own special lobster scissors to facilitate dismembering. Garnishes include melted butter, fries, cole slaw and corn on the cob. Don’t bother with the surf and turf. Other pleasant courses included beer battered haddock and chips, grilled salmon, shack crab club and baked, stuffed lobster. Set in a simple storefront with unadorned wooden picnic tables, food and drinks are ordered at the front desk and brought to the table when ready by a pleasant staff, eager to please. A decent selection of appropriate wines and beers is available, though we suggest bringing your own Champagne or white Burgundy to complement the fabulous, simply steamed fresh lobsters. For a special treat, call in advance, and they can even order a 5 pounder for people who are nuts about lobster. Lots of onsite parking is available in this strip mall.

    Sebastopol

     Eloise *(17.5) !(3.5) $(32-55) Tel.=707-823-6300, www.restauranteloise.com, 2295 Gravenstein Highway, Lunch Monday and Wednesday-Friday= 11:30-2:30, Brunch Saturday-Sunday 10-2:30, Dinner= 5:30-10:00 PM Monday+Wednesday-Saturday, Sunday=5-9:00 PM.
     The ambiance and service are that of a French country inn with food to match. They even have a few outside tables for sun lovers. A delightful but rich plate of pig trotters was drizzled with a walnut vinaigrette. Other appetizers included a super fresh green salad directly from their garden; tasty, in-season asparagus with a bit too much gribiche sauce (vinaigrette with hard boiled egg , gherkins and capers) and great texture to the ravioli with an egg yolk center and a bit too much sauce; perhaps the sauce should be placed on the side, to be used as desired by the patron. An excess of pepper marred the otherwise fabulous main courses of rabbit pappardelle and guinea hen with matzoh ball soup. The cassoulet was first rate as well. Leave room for the fine lemon curd with warm madeleines or house-made hazelnut-chocolate ice cream. Would that they bring back our favorite: lemon crepes! There is an appropriate wine list with a $15.00 corkage fee if you bring your own. Lots of onsite parking is available. A recession-special Wednesday night 3-course dinner is offered at $35.00, and corkage is waived.

    Palo Alto

     Il Fornaio *(14.5) !(3) $(15-41) Tel.=650-853-3888, 520 Cowper Street in the Garden Court Hotel, Mon.-Thu.= 7:00 a.m.-10:00 p.m., Fri.= 7:00 a.m.-11:00 p.m., Sat. 8:00 a.m.-11:00 p.m., Sun.=  8:00 a.m.-10:00 p.m.
     This is one of the more attractive of the 20 locations in this corporate chain with lots of well spaced tables inside and out. The service is pleasant but not well informed. We enjoyed a lunch of tasty chicken salad and delicious meat lasagna with proper balances between pasta and stuffing. A mixed ice cream dessert provided the right finishing touch. A satisfying glass of 2007 ZD Napa Chardonnay ($18) was chosen from their appropriate wine list. Valet parking is available for $10.00.

    Sausalito

      Murray Circle *(14) !(3) $(27-60) Tel.=415-339-4750, Fax=415-339-4792 www.murraycircle.com, Cavallo Point, 602 Murray Circle, Fort Baker, Sausalito, Daily Breakfast= 7-10:00 AM, Brunch Saturday-Sunday=11:30-2:30, Lunch Monday-Friday=11:30-2:00, Dinner nightly from 5:30 PM.
     Great reviews but disappointing food are what we discovered in this fabulous location on a decommissioned Army base. We figured we would give them a second try after being disappointed on our first visit. Fine natural ingredients are spoiled by “too much stuff” spoiling the natural tastes. A mediocre sweet pea gazpacho with serrano chilies and citrus ice was filled with raw instead of al dente cooked peas. A pedestrian course of Marin mussels with smoked paprika butter was served in an inappropriate vessel having no place to dispose of the shells. A fresh, pleasant day boat halibut was marred by excessive garlic on the plate. The grilled Sonoma pork chop with a detracting carrot-ginger emulsion was garnished with a fabulous textured farro risotto spoiled by its seasoning. Jersey ice cream accompanied a pleasant Boston cream pie. The wine list is amazing with an extensive list of half bottles. Corkage is $25.00 with a 2 bottle limit, though their fee will be waived for each bottle purchased. Lots of onsite parking is available.

    San Francisco

      Piperade *(18) !(4) $(29-61) Tel.=415-391-2555, Fax=415-391-1159, 1015 Battery at Green, Lunch= Monday-Friday 11:30-3:00, Dinner = Monday-Saturday 5:30-10:30 PM.
     Gerald Hirigoyen is a chef who knows how to enhance his high quality ingredients  without messing them up with unnecessary “stuff” on the plate as evidenced by delectable starters of: simply delicious cream of asparagus soup; butter lettuce and fresh herb salad; and superb cold poached foie gras with black pepper, sea salt and rhubarb-ginger compote. We loved our steamed Pacific snapper with spinach and fried garlic vinaigrette. Bluenose sea bass with wilted rapini, bacon, kumquat and meyer lemon was a beautifully balanced course. Save room for scrumptious desserts of: orange blossom beignets, warm apple tart with vanilla ice cream and cornmeal cake with strawberry-rhubarb compote and creme fraiche. The ambiance and service are reminiscent of a charming left bank restaurant in Paris. Street parking is easily available at dinner time.

http://aswelikeit.vox.com/
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

    Wine Country- Yountville, California

    The French Laundry *(19.5) !(5) $(240-300 includes service) 707-944-2380 for reservations taken up to 2 months in advance. www.frenchlaundry.com.  6640 Washington St.  at Creek. Lunch Fri.-Sun.11:30-1:00, Dinner 5:30-9:30 P.M. Nightly.
    Having just returned from a gastronomic dining experience in Paris, we wanted a taste comparison with the  pinacle of our local Michelin firmament. The essence of a Michelin 3-star restaurant dining experience is all about a place where each patron is treated like royalty and eats and drinks like a king; this definition fits the French Laundry perfectly. The hefty charge for dinner includes a plentiful, multi-course meal with lots of choices (including a tasting of vegetables in all their glory), so those people searching for a more simple experience should go elsewhere. Service is world class, beginning with their telephone personnel, front desk reception and pacing throughout the meal. One begins with a series of amuse gueules to enhance the appetite. These will frequently include some of the following: warm cheese gougeres, salmon tartare cornets, small tastes of exquisite soup combinations (perhaps green grape with garlic, cilantro and a purée of green garlic) and custard preparations (sometimes with truffles in an egg shell). At this point the actual menu courses begin to arrive. Refreshing salads might include roasted Hawaiian hearts of peach palm with green grapes, spicy pili nuts and Napa Valley verjus. Oysters and pearls show an exceptional balance between tiny oysters and oscetra caviar. A delectable sautéed Japanese blue fin tuna was served rare with a tomato compote and delicate greens from their garden. We loved the black cod with saffron foam sauce as well as the Louisiana white prawns with spaetzel and beets. These were followed by an outstanding foie gras, sautéed just right. Fortunately for us, black truffles were in season to perfume a fantastic al dente tagliatelle pasta; truffle courses incur a supplementary charge, but they are “to die for”!!! We loved the rich, sensuous courses of: quail with black truffle sauce, as well as the Elysian Fields Farm lamb with peas, morels and a bordelaise sauce. Next came the tasty cheese course followed by a ruby red grapefruit sorbet, “coffee & donuts” and a chocolate mousse with vanilla bean ice cream. We took the petits fours home to enjoy the next day. Their wine selection a nd service are world class as well. Corkage is $50.00 if you bring your own bottle. We considered the following to be a perfect wine complement to the food: start with the lovely house Champagne, followed by our own 1990 Latour Batard Montrachet and a half bottle of 1995 Chateau Rauzan Segla (Margaux). The decor of a converted manor home with delicate linens, wine friendly, elegant Riedel crystal, Bernardaud Limoges china service and Ercuis silver specially designed by Chef Thomas Keller complete the look and feel of elegance.

http://aswelikeit.vox.com/
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding beverage=$. Simple=appetizer + main course;
full= best available multi-course meal. France meal prices include  tax and service.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

    Paris, France Dining

     L’Ambroisie *(20) !(5) $(200-450) Tel.=01-4278-5145, www.ambroisie-placedesvosges.com, 9, Place des Vosges, 75004, Tuesday-Saturday: Lunch=12-1:30 PM, Dinner=8:00-9:30 PM.
    We enjoyed one of the most outstanding meals in recent memory on a routine Thursday lunch service. The exquisite 17th century town house, decorated with a few large scale, stunning paintings and tapestries, is home to some of the most gracious service we’ve experienced. All table settings and linens are of the highest quality. A rouget fish amuse gueule with tapenade was wonderfully balanced. The fabulous seabass (escalopines de bar a l’eminance d’artichaut, nage reduit, caviar oscietre gold) and lobster (navarin de homard et pommes de terre de Noirmoutier au romarin) preparations were “to die for”. We followed with a double veal chop for two people (cote de veau double, coeurs de sucrine braises au jus, with delicate gnocchi); never have we had such a veal dish of pure perfection. Would that we could get such meat from our suppliers in the San Francisco Bay Area. We were too full to partake of the great looking cheese platter. Make sure to leave room for dessert; we loved the red fruit melba with chocolate cake as well as the dried rhubarb sticks with heavenly strawberry sorbet. A bottle of Brut 1er de Roederer Champagne, specially made for l’Ambroisie, ($140) was the perfect accompaniment to everything. Thanks to Michelin 3-star Chef Bernard Pacaud and his staff for maintaining such high standards over these many years. Valet parking is available.

     Le Pré Catelan*(19.5) !(5) $(200-320) Tel.=01-4414-4114, fax=01-4524-4325, http://www.lenotre.fr., rte. Suresnes in the Bois de Boulogne, 75016, Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday.
     This regal chateau is set in the magnificent gardens of the Bois de Boulogne and has all the accoutrements to match: from the voiturie (to park your car) to the furniture and table settings with lovely orchids and plush carpets. Michelin 3-star Chef Frédéric Anton lives up to his stars with outstanding preparations manifesting a nouvelle approach based on solid underlying principals, starting with a wonderful amuse-gueule of cream of onion with petit pois purée. A contemporary preparation of homard (lobster) Breton began with a gelée de homard au caviar d’Aquitaine, followed by pinces croustillantes (like a tempura of the legs) and a perfectly roasted body with garlic, capers and mushrooms. The turbot with almonds couldn’t have been better, and it was accompanied by a splendid, generous serving of risotto with pan roasted octopus; BRAVO!! Beautifully roasted quail with truffles and honey came with potatoes roasted in the jus and foie gras, as well as rillettes and toast. Exciting desserts included a perfect wild strawberry tartelette (sous une feuille de meringue aux amandes argentée, fine tartelette et creme vanillée, fraises des Bois juste sucrée) and a unique, marvelous apple creation (soufflée croustillante, creme glacée caramel, cidre et sucre pétillant). Even the breads and music selection were notable. From the excellent wine list, we chose a 1995 Pol Roger Blanc de blanc Champagne ($160) to complement our meal. We called on a glorious Saturday for lunch in the magnificence of the Bois de Boulogne and found that we were the only patrons in the restaurant for the first 45 minutes, after which time another couple arrived; however, the room was fully booked for the dinner service.

     Guy Savoy *(19.5) !(4) $(160-370) Tel.=01-4380-4061, fax=01-4622-4309 www.guysavoy.com, 18 rue Troyon 75017, Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Friday, dinner only on Saturday.
     Chef Guy Savoy’s long standing Michelin 3-star rating is certainly well deserved for his cuisine. It was nice to see this charming chef in the dining room despite his large restaurant empire. We started with a glorious preparation of artichoke and black truffle soup, layered brioche with mushrooms and truffles. Next came a masterfully executed split-portion of whole grilled sea bass with the skin, vanilla and sweet spices. We could not pass up the opportunity to try our favorite fish, young turbot on the bone with seaweed butter done for 2 people with braised potatoes, young leeks and spinach: a real winner. Desserts were a mixed bag; textures of strawberry were just okay, but rhubarb and flowers with vanilla syrup made for a terrific melange. We also enjoyed their trolley of ice creams, sorbets (especially the rhubarb), conserves, mini tarts and biscuits. A special bread cart arrives with a different bread selected by the chef for each course. We enjoyed a coupe of Billecart Salmon rosé Champagne ($32) as we studied the encyclopedic wine list to choose JN Gagnard 1er cru Chassagne Montrachet ($130) in half bottle to complement our fish courses. The decor of the room is quite modern with straight lines and many African sculpture pieces and artifacts. We found service at lunch time to be too rushed, more like a business lunch in New York than a relaxed meal in Paris. The menu has translations into English, Chinese, Japanese and Russian. Valet parking is available.

      Taillevent *(19.5) !(5) $(140-420) Tel.=01-4495-1501, Fax=014225-9518, 15 rue Lamennais, 75008 Piccadilly, Mon.-Fri.=Lunch and Dinner.
     Jean-Claude Vrinat, who proudly ran this establishment with an iron fist in a velvet glove for these many years, has passed away. Jean-Marie Ancher, his long time Maitre d’, has continued the high class tradition in the classic French way. The Michelin 2-star meal began with beautifully sauced asparagus de Provence with generous, scrumptious morel mushrooms. Bonbons croustillants of duck foie gras with a chestnut cappuccino was an interesting, cutting edge preparation, but a bit salty. A casserole preparation of lobster with chestnuts was amazing. Terrific veal courses included a mignon of milk fed veal with gray shallots and salsify, as well as a casserole-roasted cote de veau with morels. We loved the wild strawberry tart, but found the baba au rhum a bit alcoholic. We began with a coupe de Champagne, after which we chose a superb bottle of 1999 Volnay Santenots du Millieu, Comtes Lafon ($250)from their well chosen, fairly priced wine list. Valet parking is available.

    La Table de Joel Robuchon *(17.75) !(3) $(65-235) Tel.=01-5628-1616, fax=01-5628-1678, latabledejoelrobuchon@wanadoo.fr, 16 Avenue Bugeaud, 75116, Open daily for lunch and dinner.
     We have happily followed Joel Robuchon’s career and restaurants for many years and were most recently impressed with his NYC location; however, we don’t feel this Paris location merits its 2 Michelin stars for cuisine. We did enjoy the fact that they offer a “small plates” menu, so that each person can sample 3 or 4 dishes plus dessert. We enjoyed a refreshing, chilled spider crab (l’araignee de mer)in a vichyssoise preparation, as well as crab wrapped in thin turnip sheets. Chicken soup with foie gras raviolis was tasty but excessively herbaceous, and the morels with green asparagus were too salty. Langoustines en papillotes croustillantes au basilic resembled exquisite tempura prawns, and the Saint Pierre with lime was delicious. Quail with foie gras was again too salty, but the pigeon wrapped in cabbage, like a cannelloni, was delightful. A generous portion of Robuchon’s signature, overly rich but scrumptious mashed potatoes accompanied the bird courses. We certainly enjoyed the yuzu (Japanese citrus) soufflé with citrus sorbet, as well as Le Cafe Frivole (sphere of chocolate au coeur de Guanaja, bisquit dacquois, feuillantine pralinée with pear). The wine list was decent in all price ranges, and we found a Bruno Paillard blanc de blanc brut reserve Champagne ($135) to go nicely with the meal. The somber decor is modern with black chairs, banquettes and table cloths, a golden cast to the walls, large mirrors and lit crystal faces and wall sconces. Valet parking is available.

      Benoit*(18) !(3.5) $(72-160) Tel.=01-4272-2576, fax=01-4272-4568, www.esprit-bistro.com, 20 rue St.-Martin. 75004,  Lunch and Dinner daily.
     Chef Alain Ducasse has taken this Michelin 1-star rated bistro and preserved its old world charm and appearance. It has been in existance since 1912. Even the rushed bistro service in the packed dinner time is to be expected. We loved the foie gras terrine with Port reduction, as well as the plump, green, poached asparagus de Provence with a sauce mousseline. The scrumptious fricassée of farm raised chicken came with a very generous coating of morel mushrooms, and the roast lamb with potatoes was a winner as well. We couldn’t pass up the in-season wild strawberries with fromage blanc sorbet and honey. Mini tarts of chocolate, lemon and rhubarb were lovely. We chose a 2006 René Monnier Puligny Montrachet les Folatieres ($160) from their decent wine selection. A special note about parking is critical. They are located on a pedestrian street, so garage parking is necessary. Parking St.-Martin can be accessed readily from rue Rivoli into rue St.-Bon directly into the garage. The entrance to Restaurant Benoit is located right across from the pedestrian exit of the garage.

      Le Pergolese *(18.5) !(4) $(95-142) Tel.=01-4500-2140, fax=01-4500-8131, www.lepergolese.com, 40 rue Pergolese, 75116, Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner, for dinner only on Saturday, which is not mentioned in the Michelin guide.
     This intimate, neighborhood venue sports a traditional decor with lots of mirrors and a few interesting contemporary paintings. A delicious creme of broccoli with chicken liver amuse-gueule prepared our palates for the quite exceptional prawn ravioli (traditionelles ravioles de langoustines en duxelle de champignons, émulsion de crustacés au foie gras) and plump, delicious asparagus vinaigrette with a bit of excess vinegar. The poulet de Bresse en ballotine de foie gras a la truffe with pot-au-feu de legumes was “other-worldly”. A rack of lamb was in perfect accord with its garnishes (carré d’agneau de nos terroirs en croute d’herbes with semolina a la Provencale). Leave room for scrumptious desserts of chocolate eclair with coffee glaze or ginger meringue sphere with red fruit soup and strawberry gelée. We missed out on the traditional grand Marnier soufflé, because we didn’t order it at the beginning of the meal; our server should have given us a “heads-up” on that one when we ordered. That will be the first thing on our agenda for next time. A coupe de Champagne and a half bottle of 2005 Bastide de Dauzac, Margaux ($50) were just the right choices to accompany this splendid lunch. One doesn’t often find such high quality at such reasonable prices elsewhere in Paris; not cheap, but great value for the price. Valet parking is available.

      Au Trou Gascon *(16) !(2.5) $(80-166) Tel.=01-4344-3426, fax=01-4307-8055, http://www.autrougascon.fr, 40 rue Taine, 75012, Lunch and dinner Monday-Friday.
     This Michelin 1-star rated restaurant specializes in serving hearty fare from Gascony (in the south west of France). Informal bistro ambiance with business men at their computers and rushed service to turn the tables make for a less-than-relaxed repas at dinnertime. We certainly enjoyed the gambas (jumbo shrimp) with foie gras flan and green pea foam sauce. Their green salad was pleasant. Pintade (guinea fowl) roasted with truffles under the skin was quite enjoyable, but it was garnished with sub-par vegetables. A braised, then roasted, leg of Pyrenees lamb was tasty but overspiced; it was garnished with an adequate mashed potato and watercress flan. Desserts were nothing to write home about: pear crumble with gingerbread, hazelnut and chocolate parfait and rice pudding; as well as a rose flavored macaroon cake with wild strawberries and lichees in gelée. From their excellent, reasonably priced wine list we chose a half bottle of 2004 1er cru Gevrey Chambertin ($75) to complement our meal.

      L’Escarbille *(17.5) !(3.5) $(55-100) Tel.=01-4534-1203, fax=01-4689-0475, http://www.escarbille.fr,  8 rue Velizy in Meudon (a suburb 6 miles south of Paris), Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Friday, dinner only on Saturday, lunch only on Sunday.
     Looking forward to a day in the countryside, we discovered this delightful mom & pop restaurant in an antique relic of a building shell next to the local train station with painted words outside in large print advertising “Hotel Restaurant Billard”; even though they only run a restaurant. But inside, this restaurant is a whole different world; it is the essence of “France in the provinces” with a family organization, farm fresh flowers, a delightful courtyard for al fresco dining and honest, home-cooking at reasonable prices for the locals rather than for the tourists. Even the periodic roar of the passing trains on the way to Paris did not disturb the peacefulness of the setting. Start with some delicious foie gras confit (aux épices douces, gelée de verjus) or warm lobster salad with artichoke hearts. Follow with excellent, done-just-right squab breast (supremes de pigeon) with leg confit or roast turbot with caramelised endives and a delicate citronelle creme. Leave room for the coconut sorbet with dark chocolate cake or  raspberry shortbread with lemon-thyme creme. This Michelin 1-star chef, Régis Douysset, also has another 1-star establishment nearby in Versailles, l’Angelique, on 27 Avenue de St. Cloud tel=01-3084-9885, which is open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. We look forward to trying that one as well.

      Chez Francis *(14.5) !(3) $(60-110) Tel.=01-4720-8683, Fax=01-4720-4326,  28 7 Place de l’Alma, 75008,  Daily=12:00 Noon-02:00 AM.
     This colorful, old time brasserie is located just down the block from the Theatre de Champs-Élysée; so convenient, that the conductor and the soloist with their entourage were seated across from us 30 minutes after the end of the concert. We shared a delicious mi-cuit foie gras with dried fruit chutney, followed by a nicely prepared sea bass for 2 people roasted whole. Dessert consisted of decent red fruits with good vanilla ice cream. Half a bottle of La Roche 2007 Chablis 1er cru les Fourchaumes ($61) went nicely with our late supper.
 
      Cafe de Flore  *(14) !(2.5) $(30-60)Tel.=01-4548-5526, 172 Boulevard Saint Germain, 75006, Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.
     We feel the aura of history when we sit here (or in Brasserie Lipp across the boulevard), for this is where the artists and intellectuals hung-out in the early part of the 20th century. It is still a decent place to have a ham sandwich, slab of foie gras, fine cup of onion soup or tarte Tatin for dessert. The shining light on their simple wine list is an outstanding half bottle of Krug multivintage Champagne for the bargain price of $130. If you’re not in the mood for a meal, just sit outside with a beer or coffee and watch the world go by.

    Au Pied de Cochon *(14.5) !(3.5) $(35-92) Tel.=01-4013-7700, Fax=01-4013-7709, www.pieddecochon.com,  6 rue Coquilliere, 75001,  Daily=24/7, never closed.
     We have been coming to this colorful, old time brasserie for the past 46 years, since before they relocated Les Halles, the produce district, when the butchers and others would come here for their onion soup (one of the best around, just the right balance of cheese, onion and crust) in the middle of the night. After all this time, we felt it only right to actually order their specialty: stuffed pied de cochon (pig’s foot) with sauce Périgourdine; we guess it must be an acquired taste, but at least we tried, even though we didn’t particularly care for it. The white asparagus was done beautifully with a sauce mousseline, and we loved their crepes flambées au Grand Marnier. Lots of mirrors with art deco, colorful chandeliers and other artifacts give the room a timeless appearance of old Paris. An appropriate half bottle of Michel Laroche 2005 Chablis ($28) was chosen from their simplistic wine list.