14 posts tagged “dining”

http://aswelikeit.vox.com/
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

    San Francisco Bay Area, CA

    Redwood City

     Old Port Lobster Shack *(16) !(1.5) $(18-64) Tel.= 650-366-2400, Fax= 650-366-4658, http://oplobster.com/index.htm, 851 Veterans Boulevard, Open Monday-Saturday continuously from 11:30 AM till 8:30-9:00 PM, Sunday=12:00 Noon-8:00 PM.
    Started by a lobster professional from Maine, the steamed 1.25 pound Maine lobster special is first rate (worthy of a *19 food rating), the best we’ve discovered locally, and a bargain at $32.75 (or $60.00 for 2). It comes with a nut cracker, lobster fork and bib. Next time we’ll bring our own special lobster scissors to facilitate dismembering. Garnishes include melted butter, fries, cole slaw and corn on the cob. Don’t bother with the surf and turf. Other pleasant courses included beer battered haddock and chips, grilled salmon, shack crab club and baked, stuffed lobster. Set in a simple storefront with unadorned wooden picnic tables, food and drinks are ordered at the front desk and brought to the table when ready by a pleasant staff, eager to please. A decent selection of appropriate wines and beers is available, though we suggest bringing your own Champagne or white Burgundy to complement the fabulous, simply steamed fresh lobsters. For a special treat, call in advance, and they can even order a 5 pounder for people who are nuts about lobster. Lots of onsite parking is available in this strip mall.

    Sebastopol

     Eloise *(17.5) !(3.5) $(32-55) Tel.=707-823-6300, www.restauranteloise.com, 2295 Gravenstein Highway, Lunch Monday and Wednesday-Friday= 11:30-2:30, Brunch Saturday-Sunday 10-2:30, Dinner= 5:30-10:00 PM Monday+Wednesday-Saturday, Sunday=5-9:00 PM.
     The ambiance and service are that of a French country inn with food to match. They even have a few outside tables for sun lovers. A delightful but rich plate of pig trotters was drizzled with a walnut vinaigrette. Other appetizers included a super fresh green salad directly from their garden; tasty, in-season asparagus with a bit too much gribiche sauce (vinaigrette with hard boiled egg , gherkins and capers) and great texture to the ravioli with an egg yolk center and a bit too much sauce; perhaps the sauce should be placed on the side, to be used as desired by the patron. An excess of pepper marred the otherwise fabulous main courses of rabbit pappardelle and guinea hen with matzoh ball soup. The cassoulet was first rate as well. Leave room for the fine lemon curd with warm madeleines or house-made hazelnut-chocolate ice cream. Would that they bring back our favorite: lemon crepes! There is an appropriate wine list with a $15.00 corkage fee if you bring your own. Lots of onsite parking is available. A recession-special Wednesday night 3-course dinner is offered at $35.00, and corkage is waived.

    Palo Alto

     Il Fornaio *(14.5) !(3) $(15-41) Tel.=650-853-3888, 520 Cowper Street in the Garden Court Hotel, Mon.-Thu.= 7:00 a.m.-10:00 p.m., Fri.= 7:00 a.m.-11:00 p.m., Sat. 8:00 a.m.-11:00 p.m., Sun.=  8:00 a.m.-10:00 p.m.
     This is one of the more attractive of the 20 locations in this corporate chain with lots of well spaced tables inside and out. The service is pleasant but not well informed. We enjoyed a lunch of tasty chicken salad and delicious meat lasagna with proper balances between pasta and stuffing. A mixed ice cream dessert provided the right finishing touch. A satisfying glass of 2007 ZD Napa Chardonnay ($18) was chosen from their appropriate wine list. Valet parking is available for $10.00.

    Sausalito

      Murray Circle *(14) !(3) $(27-60) Tel.=415-339-4750, Fax=415-339-4792 www.murraycircle.com, Cavallo Point, 602 Murray Circle, Fort Baker, Sausalito, Daily Breakfast= 7-10:00 AM, Brunch Saturday-Sunday=11:30-2:30, Lunch Monday-Friday=11:30-2:00, Dinner nightly from 5:30 PM.
     Great reviews but disappointing food are what we discovered in this fabulous location on a decommissioned Army base. We figured we would give them a second try after being disappointed on our first visit. Fine natural ingredients are spoiled by “too much stuff” spoiling the natural tastes. A mediocre sweet pea gazpacho with serrano chilies and citrus ice was filled with raw instead of al dente cooked peas. A pedestrian course of Marin mussels with smoked paprika butter was served in an inappropriate vessel having no place to dispose of the shells. A fresh, pleasant day boat halibut was marred by excessive garlic on the plate. The grilled Sonoma pork chop with a detracting carrot-ginger emulsion was garnished with a fabulous textured farro risotto spoiled by its seasoning. Jersey ice cream accompanied a pleasant Boston cream pie. The wine list is amazing with an extensive list of half bottles. Corkage is $25.00 with a 2 bottle limit, though their fee will be waived for each bottle purchased. Lots of onsite parking is available.

    San Francisco

      Piperade *(18) !(4) $(29-61) Tel.=415-391-2555, Fax=415-391-1159, 1015 Battery at Green, Lunch= Monday-Friday 11:30-3:00, Dinner = Monday-Saturday 5:30-10:30 PM.
     Gerald Hirigoyen is a chef who knows how to enhance his high quality ingredients  without messing them up with unnecessary “stuff” on the plate as evidenced by delectable starters of: simply delicious cream of asparagus soup; butter lettuce and fresh herb salad; and superb cold poached foie gras with black pepper, sea salt and rhubarb-ginger compote. We loved our steamed Pacific snapper with spinach and fried garlic vinaigrette. Bluenose sea bass with wilted rapini, bacon, kumquat and meyer lemon was a beautifully balanced course. Save room for scrumptious desserts of: orange blossom beignets, warm apple tart with vanilla ice cream and cornmeal cake with strawberry-rhubarb compote and creme fraiche. The ambiance and service are reminiscent of a charming left bank restaurant in Paris. Street parking is easily available at dinner time.

http://aswelikeit.vox.com/
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

    Wine Country- Yountville, California

    The French Laundry *(19.5) !(5) $(240-300 includes service) 707-944-2380 for reservations taken up to 2 months in advance. www.frenchlaundry.com.  6640 Washington St.  at Creek. Lunch Fri.-Sun.11:30-1:00, Dinner 5:30-9:30 P.M. Nightly.
    Having just returned from a gastronomic dining experience in Paris, we wanted a taste comparison with the  pinacle of our local Michelin firmament. The essence of a Michelin 3-star restaurant dining experience is all about a place where each patron is treated like royalty and eats and drinks like a king; this definition fits the French Laundry perfectly. The hefty charge for dinner includes a plentiful, multi-course meal with lots of choices (including a tasting of vegetables in all their glory), so those people searching for a more simple experience should go elsewhere. Service is world class, beginning with their telephone personnel, front desk reception and pacing throughout the meal. One begins with a series of amuse gueules to enhance the appetite. These will frequently include some of the following: warm cheese gougeres, salmon tartare cornets, small tastes of exquisite soup combinations (perhaps green grape with garlic, cilantro and a purée of green garlic) and custard preparations (sometimes with truffles in an egg shell). At this point the actual menu courses begin to arrive. Refreshing salads might include roasted Hawaiian hearts of peach palm with green grapes, spicy pili nuts and Napa Valley verjus. Oysters and pearls show an exceptional balance between tiny oysters and oscetra caviar. A delectable sautéed Japanese blue fin tuna was served rare with a tomato compote and delicate greens from their garden. We loved the black cod with saffron foam sauce as well as the Louisiana white prawns with spaetzel and beets. These were followed by an outstanding foie gras, sautéed just right. Fortunately for us, black truffles were in season to perfume a fantastic al dente tagliatelle pasta; truffle courses incur a supplementary charge, but they are “to die for”!!! We loved the rich, sensuous courses of: quail with black truffle sauce, as well as the Elysian Fields Farm lamb with peas, morels and a bordelaise sauce. Next came the tasty cheese course followed by a ruby red grapefruit sorbet, “coffee & donuts” and a chocolate mousse with vanilla bean ice cream. We took the petits fours home to enjoy the next day. Their wine selection a nd service are world class as well. Corkage is $50.00 if you bring your own bottle. We considered the following to be a perfect wine complement to the food: start with the lovely house Champagne, followed by our own 1990 Latour Batard Montrachet and a half bottle of 1995 Chateau Rauzan Segla (Margaux). The decor of a converted manor home with delicate linens, wine friendly, elegant Riedel crystal, Bernardaud Limoges china service and Ercuis silver specially designed by Chef Thomas Keller complete the look and feel of elegance.

http://aswelikeit.vox.com/
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding beverage=$. Simple=appetizer + main course;
full= best available multi-course meal. France meal prices include  tax and service.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

    Paris, France Dining

     L’Ambroisie *(20) !(5) $(200-450) Tel.=01-4278-5145, www.ambroisie-placedesvosges.com, 9, Place des Vosges, 75004, Tuesday-Saturday: Lunch=12-1:30 PM, Dinner=8:00-9:30 PM.
    We enjoyed one of the most outstanding meals in recent memory on a routine Thursday lunch service. The exquisite 17th century town house, decorated with a few large scale, stunning paintings and tapestries, is home to some of the most gracious service we’ve experienced. All table settings and linens are of the highest quality. A rouget fish amuse gueule with tapenade was wonderfully balanced. The fabulous seabass (escalopines de bar a l’eminance d’artichaut, nage reduit, caviar oscietre gold) and lobster (navarin de homard et pommes de terre de Noirmoutier au romarin) preparations were “to die for”. We followed with a double veal chop for two people (cote de veau double, coeurs de sucrine braises au jus, with delicate gnocchi); never have we had such a veal dish of pure perfection. Would that we could get such meat from our suppliers in the San Francisco Bay Area. We were too full to partake of the great looking cheese platter. Make sure to leave room for dessert; we loved the red fruit melba with chocolate cake as well as the dried rhubarb sticks with heavenly strawberry sorbet. A bottle of Brut 1er de Roederer Champagne, specially made for l’Ambroisie, ($140) was the perfect accompaniment to everything. Thanks to Michelin 3-star Chef Bernard Pacaud and his staff for maintaining such high standards over these many years. Valet parking is available.

     Le Pré Catelan*(19.5) !(5) $(200-320) Tel.=01-4414-4114, fax=01-4524-4325, http://www.lenotre.fr., rte. Suresnes in the Bois de Boulogne, 75016, Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday.
     This regal chateau is set in the magnificent gardens of the Bois de Boulogne and has all the accoutrements to match: from the voiturie (to park your car) to the furniture and table settings with lovely orchids and plush carpets. Michelin 3-star Chef Frédéric Anton lives up to his stars with outstanding preparations manifesting a nouvelle approach based on solid underlying principals, starting with a wonderful amuse-gueule of cream of onion with petit pois purée. A contemporary preparation of homard (lobster) Breton began with a gelée de homard au caviar d’Aquitaine, followed by pinces croustillantes (like a tempura of the legs) and a perfectly roasted body with garlic, capers and mushrooms. The turbot with almonds couldn’t have been better, and it was accompanied by a splendid, generous serving of risotto with pan roasted octopus; BRAVO!! Beautifully roasted quail with truffles and honey came with potatoes roasted in the jus and foie gras, as well as rillettes and toast. Exciting desserts included a perfect wild strawberry tartelette (sous une feuille de meringue aux amandes argentée, fine tartelette et creme vanillée, fraises des Bois juste sucrée) and a unique, marvelous apple creation (soufflée croustillante, creme glacée caramel, cidre et sucre pétillant). Even the breads and music selection were notable. From the excellent wine list, we chose a 1995 Pol Roger Blanc de blanc Champagne ($160) to complement our meal. We called on a glorious Saturday for lunch in the magnificence of the Bois de Boulogne and found that we were the only patrons in the restaurant for the first 45 minutes, after which time another couple arrived; however, the room was fully booked for the dinner service.

     Guy Savoy *(19.5) !(4) $(160-370) Tel.=01-4380-4061, fax=01-4622-4309 www.guysavoy.com, 18 rue Troyon 75017, Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Friday, dinner only on Saturday.
     Chef Guy Savoy’s long standing Michelin 3-star rating is certainly well deserved for his cuisine. It was nice to see this charming chef in the dining room despite his large restaurant empire. We started with a glorious preparation of artichoke and black truffle soup, layered brioche with mushrooms and truffles. Next came a masterfully executed split-portion of whole grilled sea bass with the skin, vanilla and sweet spices. We could not pass up the opportunity to try our favorite fish, young turbot on the bone with seaweed butter done for 2 people with braised potatoes, young leeks and spinach: a real winner. Desserts were a mixed bag; textures of strawberry were just okay, but rhubarb and flowers with vanilla syrup made for a terrific melange. We also enjoyed their trolley of ice creams, sorbets (especially the rhubarb), conserves, mini tarts and biscuits. A special bread cart arrives with a different bread selected by the chef for each course. We enjoyed a coupe of Billecart Salmon rosé Champagne ($32) as we studied the encyclopedic wine list to choose JN Gagnard 1er cru Chassagne Montrachet ($130) in half bottle to complement our fish courses. The decor of the room is quite modern with straight lines and many African sculpture pieces and artifacts. We found service at lunch time to be too rushed, more like a business lunch in New York than a relaxed meal in Paris. The menu has translations into English, Chinese, Japanese and Russian. Valet parking is available.

      Taillevent *(19.5) !(5) $(140-420) Tel.=01-4495-1501, Fax=014225-9518, 15 rue Lamennais, 75008 Piccadilly, Mon.-Fri.=Lunch and Dinner.
     Jean-Claude Vrinat, who proudly ran this establishment with an iron fist in a velvet glove for these many years, has passed away. Jean-Marie Ancher, his long time Maitre d’, has continued the high class tradition in the classic French way. The Michelin 2-star meal began with beautifully sauced asparagus de Provence with generous, scrumptious morel mushrooms. Bonbons croustillants of duck foie gras with a chestnut cappuccino was an interesting, cutting edge preparation, but a bit salty. A casserole preparation of lobster with chestnuts was amazing. Terrific veal courses included a mignon of milk fed veal with gray shallots and salsify, as well as a casserole-roasted cote de veau with morels. We loved the wild strawberry tart, but found the baba au rhum a bit alcoholic. We began with a coupe de Champagne, after which we chose a superb bottle of 1999 Volnay Santenots du Millieu, Comtes Lafon ($250)from their well chosen, fairly priced wine list. Valet parking is available.

    La Table de Joel Robuchon *(17.75) !(3) $(65-235) Tel.=01-5628-1616, fax=01-5628-1678, latabledejoelrobuchon@wanadoo.fr, 16 Avenue Bugeaud, 75116, Open daily for lunch and dinner.
     We have happily followed Joel Robuchon’s career and restaurants for many years and were most recently impressed with his NYC location; however, we don’t feel this Paris location merits its 2 Michelin stars for cuisine. We did enjoy the fact that they offer a “small plates” menu, so that each person can sample 3 or 4 dishes plus dessert. We enjoyed a refreshing, chilled spider crab (l’araignee de mer)in a vichyssoise preparation, as well as crab wrapped in thin turnip sheets. Chicken soup with foie gras raviolis was tasty but excessively herbaceous, and the morels with green asparagus were too salty. Langoustines en papillotes croustillantes au basilic resembled exquisite tempura prawns, and the Saint Pierre with lime was delicious. Quail with foie gras was again too salty, but the pigeon wrapped in cabbage, like a cannelloni, was delightful. A generous portion of Robuchon’s signature, overly rich but scrumptious mashed potatoes accompanied the bird courses. We certainly enjoyed the yuzu (Japanese citrus) soufflé with citrus sorbet, as well as Le Cafe Frivole (sphere of chocolate au coeur de Guanaja, bisquit dacquois, feuillantine pralinée with pear). The wine list was decent in all price ranges, and we found a Bruno Paillard blanc de blanc brut reserve Champagne ($135) to go nicely with the meal. The somber decor is modern with black chairs, banquettes and table cloths, a golden cast to the walls, large mirrors and lit crystal faces and wall sconces. Valet parking is available.

      Benoit*(18) !(3.5) $(72-160) Tel.=01-4272-2576, fax=01-4272-4568, www.esprit-bistro.com, 20 rue St.-Martin. 75004,  Lunch and Dinner daily.
     Chef Alain Ducasse has taken this Michelin 1-star rated bistro and preserved its old world charm and appearance. It has been in existance since 1912. Even the rushed bistro service in the packed dinner time is to be expected. We loved the foie gras terrine with Port reduction, as well as the plump, green, poached asparagus de Provence with a sauce mousseline. The scrumptious fricassée of farm raised chicken came with a very generous coating of morel mushrooms, and the roast lamb with potatoes was a winner as well. We couldn’t pass up the in-season wild strawberries with fromage blanc sorbet and honey. Mini tarts of chocolate, lemon and rhubarb were lovely. We chose a 2006 René Monnier Puligny Montrachet les Folatieres ($160) from their decent wine selection. A special note about parking is critical. They are located on a pedestrian street, so garage parking is necessary. Parking St.-Martin can be accessed readily from rue Rivoli into rue St.-Bon directly into the garage. The entrance to Restaurant Benoit is located right across from the pedestrian exit of the garage.

      Le Pergolese *(18.5) !(4) $(95-142) Tel.=01-4500-2140, fax=01-4500-8131, www.lepergolese.com, 40 rue Pergolese, 75116, Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner, for dinner only on Saturday, which is not mentioned in the Michelin guide.
     This intimate, neighborhood venue sports a traditional decor with lots of mirrors and a few interesting contemporary paintings. A delicious creme of broccoli with chicken liver amuse-gueule prepared our palates for the quite exceptional prawn ravioli (traditionelles ravioles de langoustines en duxelle de champignons, émulsion de crustacés au foie gras) and plump, delicious asparagus vinaigrette with a bit of excess vinegar. The poulet de Bresse en ballotine de foie gras a la truffe with pot-au-feu de legumes was “other-worldly”. A rack of lamb was in perfect accord with its garnishes (carré d’agneau de nos terroirs en croute d’herbes with semolina a la Provencale). Leave room for scrumptious desserts of chocolate eclair with coffee glaze or ginger meringue sphere with red fruit soup and strawberry gelée. We missed out on the traditional grand Marnier soufflé, because we didn’t order it at the beginning of the meal; our server should have given us a “heads-up” on that one when we ordered. That will be the first thing on our agenda for next time. A coupe de Champagne and a half bottle of 2005 Bastide de Dauzac, Margaux ($50) were just the right choices to accompany this splendid lunch. One doesn’t often find such high quality at such reasonable prices elsewhere in Paris; not cheap, but great value for the price. Valet parking is available.

      Au Trou Gascon *(16) !(2.5) $(80-166) Tel.=01-4344-3426, fax=01-4307-8055, http://www.autrougascon.fr, 40 rue Taine, 75012, Lunch and dinner Monday-Friday.
     This Michelin 1-star rated restaurant specializes in serving hearty fare from Gascony (in the south west of France). Informal bistro ambiance with business men at their computers and rushed service to turn the tables make for a less-than-relaxed repas at dinnertime. We certainly enjoyed the gambas (jumbo shrimp) with foie gras flan and green pea foam sauce. Their green salad was pleasant. Pintade (guinea fowl) roasted with truffles under the skin was quite enjoyable, but it was garnished with sub-par vegetables. A braised, then roasted, leg of Pyrenees lamb was tasty but overspiced; it was garnished with an adequate mashed potato and watercress flan. Desserts were nothing to write home about: pear crumble with gingerbread, hazelnut and chocolate parfait and rice pudding; as well as a rose flavored macaroon cake with wild strawberries and lichees in gelée. From their excellent, reasonably priced wine list we chose a half bottle of 2004 1er cru Gevrey Chambertin ($75) to complement our meal.

      L’Escarbille *(17.5) !(3.5) $(55-100) Tel.=01-4534-1203, fax=01-4689-0475, http://www.escarbille.fr,  8 rue Velizy in Meudon (a suburb 6 miles south of Paris), Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Friday, dinner only on Saturday, lunch only on Sunday.
     Looking forward to a day in the countryside, we discovered this delightful mom & pop restaurant in an antique relic of a building shell next to the local train station with painted words outside in large print advertising “Hotel Restaurant Billard”; even though they only run a restaurant. But inside, this restaurant is a whole different world; it is the essence of “France in the provinces” with a family organization, farm fresh flowers, a delightful courtyard for al fresco dining and honest, home-cooking at reasonable prices for the locals rather than for the tourists. Even the periodic roar of the passing trains on the way to Paris did not disturb the peacefulness of the setting. Start with some delicious foie gras confit (aux épices douces, gelée de verjus) or warm lobster salad with artichoke hearts. Follow with excellent, done-just-right squab breast (supremes de pigeon) with leg confit or roast turbot with caramelised endives and a delicate citronelle creme. Leave room for the coconut sorbet with dark chocolate cake or  raspberry shortbread with lemon-thyme creme. This Michelin 1-star chef, Régis Douysset, also has another 1-star establishment nearby in Versailles, l’Angelique, on 27 Avenue de St. Cloud tel=01-3084-9885, which is open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. We look forward to trying that one as well.

      Chez Francis *(14.5) !(3) $(60-110) Tel.=01-4720-8683, Fax=01-4720-4326,  28 7 Place de l’Alma, 75008,  Daily=12:00 Noon-02:00 AM.
     This colorful, old time brasserie is located just down the block from the Theatre de Champs-Élysée; so convenient, that the conductor and the soloist with their entourage were seated across from us 30 minutes after the end of the concert. We shared a delicious mi-cuit foie gras with dried fruit chutney, followed by a nicely prepared sea bass for 2 people roasted whole. Dessert consisted of decent red fruits with good vanilla ice cream. Half a bottle of La Roche 2007 Chablis 1er cru les Fourchaumes ($61) went nicely with our late supper.
 
      Cafe de Flore  *(14) !(2.5) $(30-60)Tel.=01-4548-5526, 172 Boulevard Saint Germain, 75006, Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.
     We feel the aura of history when we sit here (or in Brasserie Lipp across the boulevard), for this is where the artists and intellectuals hung-out in the early part of the 20th century. It is still a decent place to have a ham sandwich, slab of foie gras, fine cup of onion soup or tarte Tatin for dessert. The shining light on their simple wine list is an outstanding half bottle of Krug multivintage Champagne for the bargain price of $130. If you’re not in the mood for a meal, just sit outside with a beer or coffee and watch the world go by.

    Au Pied de Cochon *(14.5) !(3.5) $(35-92) Tel.=01-4013-7700, Fax=01-4013-7709, www.pieddecochon.com,  6 rue Coquilliere, 75001,  Daily=24/7, never closed.
     We have been coming to this colorful, old time brasserie for the past 46 years, since before they relocated Les Halles, the produce district, when the butchers and others would come here for their onion soup (one of the best around, just the right balance of cheese, onion and crust) in the middle of the night. After all this time, we felt it only right to actually order their specialty: stuffed pied de cochon (pig’s foot) with sauce Périgourdine; we guess it must be an acquired taste, but at least we tried, even though we didn’t particularly care for it. The white asparagus was done beautifully with a sauce mousseline, and we loved their crepes flambées au Grand Marnier. Lots of mirrors with art deco, colorful chandeliers and other artifacts give the room a timeless appearance of old Paris. An appropriate half bottle of Michel Laroche 2005 Chablis ($28) was chosen from their simplistic wine list.

http://aswelikeit.vox.com/
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

    London, England

     Gordon Ramsay *(19.5) !(4.5) $(125-185) Tel.=020-7352-4441 Fax=020-7352-3334, www.gordonramsay.com, 68 Royal Hospital Road, SW3 4HP, Mon.-Fri.: Lunch=12-2:30 PM, Dinner=6:30-11:00PM.
    We loved his New York (Michelin 2-star rated) restaurant so much, that we had to dine at this venue, his Michelin 3-star rated crown jewel on his home turf. And we were not disappointed. Exquisite preparations of prime ingredients were served flawlessly in elegant dishes with regal tableware. Scrumptious starters included: ravioli of lobster, langoustine and salmon poached in a light bisque; quail and foie gras pithivier with wild mushrooms; butter-poached Scottish lobster tail with chestnut lasagne, trompettes de la mort, baby spinach and black truffles; sautéed foie gras with roasted veal sweetbreads; and pressed foie gras with confit chicken and Périgord truffles. Main courses were “to die for”, each dish delicately balanced to showcase the ingredients in perfect harmony: roasted fillet of line-caught turbot with langoustines, linguine and wild mushrooms; pan-fried, line-caught sea bass with steamed charlotte potatoes, cucumber, oyster beignet and caviar velouté; oven-roasted Bresse pigeon with grilled polenta, crispy lardons, braised shallots, baby golden beetroot and date sauce; Cornish lamb with confit shoulder, provençale vegetables, baby spinach and thyme jus; and roasted saddle of Highland venison with roasted pumpkin and quince. Next came a perfectly aged selection of cheeses, followed by our favorite dessert, and one that makes the trip to London or New York worthwhile, caramelised tarte Tatin of apples with vanilla ice cream (for two). The encyclopedic wine list contained the following selections that complemented dinner exquisitely: Bollinger Champagne ($105.), P. Pernot Puligny Montrachet ($105) and a Corton Bressande ($150). Call 2 months in advance between 10:00 AM and 3:30 PM to book a table, and be prepared to leave your credit card information (a good way to prevent no-shows), which will not be charged if you cancel properly. For those of you wishing for a less expensive way to share in the Gordom Ramsay experience, he operates these other London restaurants: Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s (Michelin 1-star), Boxwood Cafe, Maze (Michelin 1-star), Maze Grill, Foxtrot Oscar (bistro), Murano, York & Albany and 3 pubs (The Narrow, The Devonshire and the Warrington). It seems that you can spend a week and a half dining in different Gordon Ramsay places with varied styles and prices. We look forward to trying them all.

     Brasserie Roux in the Sofitel Hotel *(17) !(3.5) $(30-65) Tel.=(0)20 7747 2200, http://www.sofitelstjames.com/brasserieroux/brasserieroux.html, 8 Pall Mall, Daily= 6:30 AM-11.30 PM.
     This one hundred-seat restaurant offers classic French brasserie cuisine in an atmosphere of informal elegance. With its long hours, it is available whenever people are interested in eating. We enjoyed the French onion soup, pike quenelle with Nantua sauce, duck foie gras with fig chutney, organic Scottish salmon with smoked salmon, spit-roasted free range chicken, pot au feu and roasted woodcock with wild mushrooms. Save room for desserts of: creme caramel a l’orange or rum baba with caramelized pineapple. An appropriate wine list exists, and service is attentive.

     The Wolseley *(15) !(3.5) $(15-68) Tel.=020-7499-6996, 160 Piccadilly, Mon-Fri.=7:00 AM-Midnight, Sat.=8:00 AM-Midnight, Sun.=8:00 AM-11:00 PM.
     They offer a lunch and dinner menu as well as menus in the Grand Café tradition at different times throughout the day including breakfast, morning pastries, afternoon tea and an all day menu with sandwiches, salads, crustacea and plats du jour. It’s such a popular place, that we were only able to book a fine English breakfast there on one occasion; they were fully booked otherwise. The rather formal, elegant setting contrasts with the slow, inefficient service. Looks like a fun place for high tea, but we couldn’t get reservations, even with a week’s notice.

      Richoux *(14.5) !(3.5) $(15-50) Tel.=0207-493-2204, 172 Piccadilly, Mon.-Fri.=8:00 AM-11:00 PM, Sat.= till 11:30 PM, Sun.=9:00 AM-11:00 PM.
     The Richoux team runs 4 restaurants in London, but this location was around the corner from our lodgings, and it proved a reliable place for delicious English breakfasts with pancakes, eggs any fashion, sausage, meaty bacon, beans and black pudding. Lunch proved popular with spaghetti carbonara, curried chicken and risotto with chicken. Pick some delicious patisseries from the front counter to enjoy with your coffee. You don’t need to reserve, they alway seem to be able to seat you, even if there is a queue. The English equivalent of a brasserie decor make for a pleasant atmosphere.

    Yauatcha *(17.5) !(3) $(24-75) Tel.=020 7494 8888, www.yauatcha.com, 15-17 Broadwick Street, Soho W1F 0DL, Mon.-Sat.=12:00 Noon-11:45 PM, Sun. till 10:30 PM.
     This is part luxury dim sum restaurant and part tea-house with a French-Oriental patisserie counter. Unlike in California, the dishes don’t come around on a tray or cart, but you order them directly from the menu, along with the rest of the primarily Cantonese courses. And also unlike California, the servers are not of oriental origin, but rather attractive, young people who seem like they’re waiting for a Hollywood producer to discover them. The dim sum is first class with some modern variations, and it deserves its Michelin 1-star rating. We loved several variations of dumplings, pork rolls, venison puffs, smoked duck with Chinese pancakes, pot stickers, noodle dishes and selections from the upstairs pastry counter. The choice location to sit is downstairs with glass sparkly “stars” shining from the walls and ceiling and a huge fish tank over the bar.

      Locanda Locatelli *(18.5) !(3.5) $(34-89) Tel.=0207-935-9088, www.locanalocatelli.com, 8 Seymour St., W1H 7JZ,  Lunch=12:00-3:00 daily, Dinner from 6:45 PM nightly.
     This delightful, Michelin 1-star rated restaurant nicely satisfied our desire for a special Italian-London dinner in an elegant, contemporary setting. Hearty soups included a vegetable-packed minestrone and a superb tortellini in brodo. House-made pastas were combined with perfect complements in the pappardelle with wild boar ragu and the tagliatelle with kid goat ragu. Quail risotto with grana padano cheese was another of our favorites, as was their preparation of kid goat with roasted vegetables. Leave room for scrumptious desserts of: tiramisu; apple tart with chocolate chip ice cream; savarin with coconut ice cream and pineapple; montebianco (moscovado sponge, vanilla whipped cream and chestnut ice cream); and tasting of “Amedei” chocolates. The service was top notch, as was their wonderful wine selection from which we enjoyed a 2001 Barbaresco Riserva Vigneti In Pora Produttori Del Barbaresco ($135) and a 2004 Barolo Bussia, Prunotto ($135).

      Le Cafe Anglais *(15.5) !(2.5) $(35-74) Tel.=020-7721-1415, www.lecafeanglais.co.uk, 8 Porchester Gardens, Bayswater, W2 4DB, Open daily= 12-3.30 PM, 6.30-11.30PM.
     This transformation of a second floor McDonalds branch into a British brasserie has its plusses (decent grilled halibut and chocolate soufflé) and minuses (inedible foie gras terrine and inefficient service). The oysters were good, and the chicken liver flan was enjoyable. Chicken with garlic and rosemary was just okay, as was the rack of lamb with rosemary, garlic and tarbais beans. A custard tart with prunes was pleasant, as was the pear belle Helene. There is a reasonably priced, appropriate wine selection from which we chose Louis Roederer brut Champagne NV ($100) and 2003 Patrick Jasmin Cote Roti ($100); they were a fine accompaniment to dinner. The restaurant is located in an interesting, commercial, multi-ethnic neighborhood.

      Wild Honey *(17) !(3) $(41-66) Tel.=020-7758-9160, http://www.wildhoneyrestaurant.co.uk, 12 St. George St., W1S 2FB, Lunch daily from 12:00 noon, Dinner from 6:00 PM nightly.
     This Michelin 1-star rated restaurant specializes in serving fresh seasonal produce at reasonable prices in an oak-panelled, old English atmosphere. We savored the soup of potato, organic hen’s egg and radish shoots. Ravioli of English veal, butternut squash and fresh sheep ricotta was stellar, but the chicken and duck terrine was less successful. A warm salad of winter vegetables with olive oil and rosemary highlighted their fresh, seasonal produce claim-to-fame. They certainly did a fine job with the grilled beef rib (for 2 persons) garnished with Anna potatoes. Roast young chicken and traditional Marseille-style bouillabaisse were well prepared. There was a properly aged cheese course to precede scrumptious desserts of: vanilla cheesecake with Yorkshire rhubarb; “pain perdu” (French toast) with apples and golden sultanas; warm chocolate soup with milk ice cream; and their namesake wild honey ice cream with crushed honeycomb. We chose a Billecart Salmon brut reserve NV ($80) and a 2001 Chateau Batailley, grand cru classé, Pauillac ($105.) from the well-selected, well-priced wine list.

      The Capital Restaurant in the Capital Hotel *(18.5) !(4) $(75-105) Tel.=(0)20-7589-5171, http://www.capitalhotel.co.uk/restaurantbar.html,  22 BASIL STREET, LONDON SW3 1AT, Lunch and dinner daily as well as afternoon tea from 3-5:30 PM.
     We had dined here 10 years ago and remarked about an inattentive sommelier, but on this visit the sommelier was omnipresent and the other servers should have been more attentive. They deserve their Michelin 2-star rating for their fine food preparation combining English ingredients with superb French technique in a relatively formal atmosphere. Start with  the crab lasagne with langoustine cappuccino, or the pan-fried foie gras with rhubarb, or even a warm quail salad. That will get you ready for the fine entrees of: Grilled turbot with mushroom ravioli; saddle of rabbit ‘Provençale’, seared calamari and tomato risotto; Pigeon “d’Anjou” with garniture ‘Grand -Mère’; or fillet of lamb with cumin jus and spicy couscous. Intrigueing desserts included: iced coffee parfait with warm chocolate fondant; cheesecake with orange caramel and caramelized hazelnut ice cream; litchi baba with coconut sorbet and exotic foam; and vanilla pearls with roasted banana, rum pannacotta and mango sorbet. The international wine list is quite extensive and expensive.

      Le Cafe du Jardin *(15) !(3) $(35-55) Tel.=020-7836-8769, Fax=020-7836-4123, http://www.lecafedujardin.com/, 28 Wellington St., Covent Garden, WC2E 7BD,  Daily=12:00 Noon-12:00 Midnight.
     Convenient to the Opera, this informal venue is fine for any time of the day for a simply prepared meal. The downstairs room is quieter for visiting with friends, but upstairs is more lively. Start with a warm salad of ham hock with a soft-poached free range egg, or deep fried crab cake with spring onion risotto, or even crayfish risotto with caramelised red onions and shaved parmesan. Interesting entrees included: beef Bourguignon with smoked bacon and cauliflower puree; char-grilled rib eye of Scotch beef with pommes frites, grilled tomato, mushrooms and béarnaise sauce; rare-grilled fillet of ostrich with sauted new potatoes and red peppers, mushroom duxelle and a port reduction; and crispy skin fillet of sea bass with caramelised fennel and brown butter. Pleasant desserts included: lemon tart, chocolate tart, fruit crumble, chocolate mousse and sticky toffee pudding. Service was adequate, as was their wine list from which we chose a Chablis 1er Cru Vau Ligneau (Domaine Thierry Hamelin) 2006 ($54) and a Chateau Lucas (Lussac, St. Emilion) 2004 ($45).
 

      Arlington House  Tel.=011-44-207-629-0021 from USA, 25 Arlington St. off Piccadilly.
     We find this small building of flats in the Mayfair District to be a great location just down the block from the Ritz Hotel. There was always a taxi available when we needed one, and it’s only 2 blocks from the Green Park Underground tube station. The flats range from 1-3 bedrooms, and prices/availability vary with the season. Reservations can be made through regentsuites.com with a USA telephone=1-800-513-0010; they are also a good source of flats in other areas of London.

http://aswelikeit.vox.com/
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

    Las Vegas, NV

     Picasso at the Bellagio Hotel *(19.5) !(5) $(95-140) Tel.=866-259-7111 or 702-693-7223, 3600 S. Las Vegas Blvd. Dinner Wed.-Mon.=6:00-9:30 PM.
    One of the best restaurants in the world, this 2-star Michelin rated venue is definitely deserving of a third star. While other Las Vegas chefs originate menus and oversee operations, Julian Serrano is working hard in the restaurant to turn out fabulous dinners almost every night. The menu degustation began with a striking arrangement amuse bouche with Scottish smoked salmon, potato leek soup and golden osetra caviar. Maine lobster salad with apple-Champagne vinaigrette was ambrosia, and the langoustine salad with roasted zucchini, crispy artichoke, tomato confit and piquillo pepper vinaigrette was awsome. Pan seared U-10 scallop with cream of carrot and ginger was exciting. A memorable Kobe beef filet mignon with potatoes mousseline and seasonal vegetables can’t be beat. A well aged cheese selection preceded exciting desserts of warm chocolate fondant with chocolate caramel ice cream and warm apricot strudel with mirabelle plum parfait and apricot chamomile sorbet. We chose fabulous bottles (2000 Henri Clerc Bienvenue-Batard Montrachet and 1990 Chateau Pichon Longueville Lalande, Pauillac) from their outstanding, but reasonable, wine list. Knowledgeable, attentive service, museum quality picasso paintings, elegant table settings and a view of the fountains and the Eiffel Tower complete the picture for a perfect dinner.

     Bouchon *(17.5) !(3.5) $(35-83) Tel.=702-414-6200, 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Breakfast daily= 7:00-10:30 AM, Dinner nightly 5:00-10:30 PM. Brunch Sat,-Sun.= 8:00-2:00.
     They have recreated the perfect Paris Brasserie in Las Vegas, as well as its sister venue in Yountville. The raw bar is terrific, as are their rillettes, quiche, soups and salads. We loved their coq au vin, grouper and duck breast, and the kids were happy with the macaroni. Save room for desserts of bouchon chocolate cakes, pot de creme, doughnuts, profiterolles, creme brulee and chocolate mousse. A very appropriate wine list included the delicious Morey Meursault Perrieres at $199.00.

     B and B  in the Venetian Hotel*(13.5) !(3) $(35-105) Tel.=702-266-9977, 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. S.,  Dinner 5-11:00 PM nightly.
     As you walk past the gondoliers in this recreation of Venice, you look forward to a decent Italian meal from experienced restauranteurs Mario Batali and Joseph Bastianich. The dining room is attractive enough, but the inept servers had difficulty in even getting bread to the table, no less attending to the sophisticated menu that is presented. Minestrone soup is adequate as are their pastas (beef cheek ravioli and pappardelle Bolognese) and entrees (grilled quail, squab and veal chop), but we didn’t bother staying for dessert. There is a decent wine selection and an efficient sommelier.

Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

    Nate’n Al  *(16.5) !(1) $(12-28) Tel.=310-274-0101 Fax=310-274-0485 www.natenal.com.  414 N. Beverly Dr. at Brighton Way, Beverly Hills, 7:00 A.M.-9:00 P.M. daily except for Jewish Holidays.
    We wish that a Jewish style deli of comparable quality would open in the San Francisco Bay Area. Even our last few trips to New York City have not yielded food as good, though NY still has the right atmosphere. The chicken noodle soup with matzoh balls and noodles is “to die for”. Favorite sandwiches include corned beef, pastrami, chopped liver and turkey, each accompanied by their great pickles and cole slaw or potato salad. If you eat at a popular time, prepare for a long wait. Reservations are only taken for parties of 6 or more. Make sure to get your name on the list at the cashier’s desk as soon as you arrive. Validated parking is available a few doors away. Consider their take-out counter, where you can order the same food and drive away for a lovely picnic. Also note that nationwide shipping is available, for when you can't get to Beverly Hills.
        
    Il Grano*(18.5) !(4.0) $(40-90) 310-477-7886 Fax=310-477-7775. www.ilgrano.com.  11359 Santa Monica Blvd. West Los Angeles, Lunch Mon.-Fri., Dinner=Mon.-Sat.
    We found it refreshing to find an Italian chef in Los Angeles who knows how to respect the integrity of his fine ingredients and not mess things up with fussy sauces, etc. White table linens, excellent service and lots of room between tables make for a pleasant sharing with your dinner companions. We were happy to come at the right season to have white truffles with a delicious tagliolini in a cream and butter sauce. Carnaroli risotto with diced day boat scallops, winter spinach and asparagus made for a delectable appetizer, as did the daily crudo (sashimi style raw fish) assortment. The surprise crown jewel of the dinner was a salt-crusted, oven-baked Mediterranean striped bass that allowed the fabulous natural flavors to come through; this was accompanied by organic autumn vegetables, each a jewel in its own right, of purple and regular fingerling potatoes, baby asparagus, French string beans and romanesco. It reminded us of the fabulous course we frequently enjoyed at the Port d’Alma Restaurant in Paris. The Alaskan black cod was also enjoyable. Desserts were all quite good: Bacco Tabacco = mocha Bavarian, tobacco infusion, rum gelee and syrup in a chocolate basket; Budino di Cioccolato = warm chocolate cake, crema di caffe gelato and espresso tuile; and our very favorite, a Pannettone soufflé with amaretto creme anglais and glazed berries. A fine wine selection is available, and corkage is $30.00/bottle if you bring your own, which we did. A bottle of 1997 Leflaive Puligny Montrachet Clavoillon and a 1999 George de la Tour BV Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon were the perfect complement to this meal. We should also add that a 5-course vegetarian menu is available at $49.00. Street parking is easily available.

   
    Lucques *(15.5) !(4) $(40-82) 323-655-6277. 8474 Melrose Ave. 1/2 block East of La Cienega, Los Angeles, Lunch Tues.-Sat. 12:00-2:30, Dinner Mon.-Sat. 6:00-10:00, Sun. supper 5:00-10:00
    Glowing reviews in other dining guides encouraged us to call for a hard-to-get reservation, but their cuisine is a prime example of course preparation, where poor saucing can spoil fine ingredients.  The decor is upscale contemporary with a covered, rear garden room that we enjoyed. The service was outstanding, knowledgeable and able to handle all details with ease. Some courses were splendid, like the sautéed veal sweetbreads with sun chokes, potato, dates and honey vinegar, as well as the market fish crudo with green harissa, avocado, watercress, chili and lime. An appetizer of roasted beets and young carrots with black olives, gremolata and crumbled feta was just passable. Decent CK lamb loin chops were  drowned in a butter soaked salsa verde and tapenade; when will people learn to put stuff like this on the side for customers to season to taste. A grilled club steak for two with potatoes “parisienne” (mashed with lots of butter and cream) and a nice accent of arugula salad was marred by unannounced onion  marinated topping. Hand cut noodles with rabbit sausage, chanterelles, mustard greens and toasted bread crumbs were tasty, but we needed to request lots of extra noodles for proper  balance. The black cod with chocolate persimmons, fennel, radish and pomegranate salsa was underwhelming; lots of fuss that didn’t contribute anything. Desserts included very toothsome vanilla crepes, disappointing chocolate donuts and an excellent Valrhona hot chocolate drink. The wine list was appropriate but highly priced; the corkage fee was $20.00. We enjoyed our own 1995 Pol Roger Champagne to start followed by a 1998 Bonneau de Martray Corton Charlemagne; 1995 Laurent Echezeaux highlighted the entrees.

http://aswelikeit.vox.com/
Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

    Wine Country- Yountville

    The French Laundry *(20) !(5) $(240-300 includes service) 707-944-2380 for reservations taken up to 2 months in advance. www.frenchlaundry.com.  6640 Washington St.  at Creek. Lunch Fri.-Sun.11:30-1:00, Dinner 5:30-9:30 P.M. Nightly.
    This is the essence of what a Michelin 3-star restaurant experience is all about: a place where each patron is treated like royalty and dines and drinks like a king. The hefty charge for dinner includes a plentiful, multi-course meal with lots of choices, so those people searching for a more simple experience should go elsewhere. Service is world class, beginning with their telephone personnel, front desk reception and pacing throughout the meal.
    One begins with a series of amuse gueules to enhance your appetite. If there are two of you, each will receive a different taste for variety. These will frequently include some of the following: warm cheese gougeres, salmon tartare cornets, small tastes of exquisite soup combinations (perhaps a mushroom-pomegranate base under a squash puree), custard preparations (sometimes with jidori hen egg and/or truffles), white sturgeon caviar variations and an otherworldly Kahala sashimi-type fish preparation whose fresh smoke excites the senses when the transparent cover is lifted. At this point the actual menu courses begin to arrive. Refreshing salads might include Santa Barbara peaches or fennel bulb and satsuma mandarins with arugula leaves and Nicoise olive oil. Delectable oil poached blue fin tuna was served rare with a tomato concassee and delicate greens. Marvelous preparations of perfectly butter-poached Maine lobster tail (caramelized cipollini onions, sunchoke puree, scallion “Emincee”, hazelnuts and coffee-chocolate emulsion) were followed by outstanding foie gras dishes (for a $30.00 supplement, one sautéed just right, the other “au torchon” with meyer lemon relish, Tokyo turnips, watercress and Granny Smith apple puree). Fortunately for us, white truffles were in season to top our carnaroli rice risotto and tagliatelle pasta; these dishes were “to die for”!!! We loved the rich, sensuous courses of: all day-braised Kurobuta pork belly with mustard seed glaze, roasted hearts of romaine lettuce and celery root puree, as well as the rabbit shoulder with exquisite mashed potatoes. Another very special experience was tasting the grilled-rare sirloin of Kuroge beef from Shiga with hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, thumbelina carrots, wilted pea tendrils and caramelized garlic sauce (for a $100.00 supplement). At this point in the evening we were so full that we skipped the cheese course and went directly to desserts of a wonderful chocolate soufflé with caramel ice cream and chocolate sauce, as well as a chocolate mousse pavé with pistachio ice cream and sour cherries. Some strong double expressos prepared us for the drive home.
Their wine selection a nd service are world class as well. Corkage is $50.00 if you bring your own bottle. We considered the following to be a perfect wine complement to the food: start with the lovely house Champagne, followed by our own 1992 Remoissenet Montrachet Thenard and a half bottle of 2000 Chateau Palmer (Margaux).
The decor appearance of a converted manor home with delicate linens, wine friendly, elegant Riedel crystal, Bernardaud Limoges china service and Ercuis silver specially designed by Chef Thomas Keller complete the look and feel of elegance.
Even the sound of Christmas carollers singing at the entrance a few days before Xmas was a special treat.

Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

    New York City

    Jean Georges *(19) !(4.5) $(100-200) tel=212-299-3900. http://www.jean-georges.com/. 1 Central Park W. between 60-61st St. in the Trump International Hotel.  Lunch Sunday only=12:00-2:30 P.M. Dinner 5:30-11:00 Mon.-Sat.
    We have followed this chef over the years from his NY start in the Hotel Lafayette to his latest Michelin 3-star mecca here. Jean George Vongerichten is the consummate entrepreneur-chef, who is able to create restaurants for all tastes, this one being his crown jewel. Previously we were only able to snag reservations in the adjoining bistro, which was very pleasant for a pre-concert dinner. After some tantalizing amuse bouches, we felt compelled to start with his “over-the-top” ($175.00 appetizer split-for-two) truffle dumpling of white truffles over a goat-gruyere cheese custard with a delightful counter point of frisee salad and toasted hazelnut. We loved the tastes and textures of the turbot with Chateau Chalon sauce (like a sweet crepes suzettes sauce made with vin jeune d’Arbois). Beautifully sauteed foie gras came with an overly smokey-sweet chestnut and brandy accompaniment. Marvelous entrees of halibut (steamed with Honshimeji mushrooms and lemon grass consomme) and poached lobster with saffron tapioca and Gewurztraminer foam preceded delightful Autumn and apple tastings of desserts. A bottle of Roederer Premier Brut Champagne was just the right choice from their great wine selection. The dining room has an understated, modern elegance with taupe leather booths and an 8-golden-globed light fixture stretching out like the tentacles of an octopus from the ceiling. Lovely, fresh, vibrant-colored flowers adorned the white linen table cloths. All in all we enjoyed our dining experience, but would have given them only 2 Michelin stars, feeling that the experience at Per Se and the French Laundry belong to the higher 3-star realm.

    San Pietro Ristorante *(16.5) !(4.0) $(50-100) tel=212-753-9015  fax=212-371-2337 www.sanpietro.net.  18 E. 54th St.  Lunch and dinner Mon.-Sat.
    Authentic cuisine of Salerno, Italy is prepared using extra virgin olive oil from their family farm in Salerno. Italian waiters and charming murals and memorabilia make you feel like you are dining in Italy. We were fortunate enough to arrive during white truffle season, so that we could share a delicious but outrageously expensive truffled fettuccini portion for the table. Other pastas and antipasti were enjoyable, as were assorted fish and veal entrees. This is one of those rare places that still prepares crepes suzettes table side. We chose an NV Veuve Cliquot Champagne (@$110) and a 2002 Montevetrano from Compagna (@$110) from their fine wine list.

        
    Vong*(15.0) !(4.0) $(35-70) tel=212-486-9592 http://www.jean-georges.com/. 200 E. 54th St. between 2nd & 3rd Ave. Lunch M-F=12:00-3:00, Dinner daily 5:30-11:00.
    This is another slice of Jean George Vongerichten’s dining empire, specializing in cuisine of S.E. Asia. We found most of their courses somewhat overly spiced for our palates. We suggest beginning with a tasting plate of their signature appetizers and supplement that with sauteed foie gras, ginger and mango. We sampled entrees of bass, chicken, beef, rabbit and Thai lobster. Each had appropriate accompaniments, but none were truly exceptional. Dessert samplers were equally pleasant. A bottle of Pol Roger brut Champagne at $88.00, chosen from their appropriate wine list, went nicely with most courses. The ambiance captures colorful S.E. Asia decor. They automatically add a 20% gratuity for parties of 6 or more.

   
    Picholine *(18.5) !(4.5) $(65-105) 212-724-8585. Picholinenyc.com. 35 W. 64th St. between Broadway and Central Park W. Dinner nightly from 5:30.
    This is our favorite formal place to dine before a concert, because it’s located right across the street from Lincoln Center, and they know how to time things so that patrons get out on time to make the opening curtain. Frette linens, solid weight silver, fine china and crystal make this contemporary dining room feel quite elegant. Prelude courses included: an ordinary tasting pumpkin bisque, funny textured but tasty foie gras torchon accompanied by an over-peppered brioche toast, excellent warm lobster with mousserons and savoy cabbage, and a scrumptious wild mushroom risotto. We loved our olive oil-poached halibut, and our sea bass with oyster veloute was delightful. Since they have the best cheese selection we’ve tasted in America, we couldn’t leave without a taste of each of the following, which were all superb: Oregon classic sheep, pave d’Auge, Robiola, petit munster (France), taleggio and epoisses. A bottle of 2003 Etienne Sauzet Puligny Montrachet held up well throughout the meal. We wholeheartedly agree with the Michelin Guide’s 2-star rating.

    Gallagher’s Steak House *(14.5) !(3) $(35-75) 212-245-5426. Fax: 212-245-5426. 228 W. 52nd St. Open daily from 12:00 noon to midnight.
    1927 is the founding date for this old time off-Broadway steakhouse. Good rib eye and filet mignon beef with simple baked potatoes and steamed broccoli are just the ticket for hungry theater goers in between performances. A Heitz Cellar cabernet at $69.00 was just the right wine for the steaks.

     Angelo’s Pizza *(12) !(1) $(12-26) 212-245-8811. 1699 W. Broadway between 53rd & 54th St. 11:00 A.M.-11:00 P.M. daily.
    A fun place to get a late bite of pizza or pasta in the midtown area.

     Burger Heaven *(10) !(1) $(8-24) 212-753-4214. burgerheavenny.com. 536 Madison Ave. and 5 other Manhattan locations. 7:00 A.M.-9:00 P.M. daily.
    A 60-year old chain of no-nonsense, reliable burgers and diner foods. Good for a fast bite or to take the kids.

Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

     San Francisco

    La Folie *(19) !(4.5) $(70-105+) 415-776-5577  www.lafolie.com.  2316 Polk St.  Dinner 5:30-10:30 P.M. Mon.-Sat.
    This has long been one of our favorite restaurants for a special French feast. The dining room’s transformation from a “Folie” stage set to an elegant, contemporary venue has been striking, and the food has become a bit lighter and more delicate. Two amuse bouches of lobster beignet and truffled egg were just the right starters, and even the warm dinner rolls were quite fine. Don’t miss the toothsome tasting of “Passot Roe” with a crab and Meyer lemon parfait, Kona kampachi with a fennel radish salad, and perfectly done Maine lobster. The citrus marinated Hamachi and yellow fin tuna with shaved radish and bottarga salad was a refreshing starter. We loved the shaved Hudson Valley foie gras “shabu-shabu” (topped by a hot truffle broth to cook it a bit) with hazel nuts and anjou pear. The seared day boat scallop paired perfectly with crispy pork belly on a bed of mashed potato. Perfectly rare Millbrook farms pancetta-wrapped venison was accompanied by a slightly underdone apple-studded potato gallette and a wonderful  but tiny accent of chestnut. A rich but flavorful Kabocha pumpkin cake with kabocha and caramel ice cream completed the Menu Cuistot tasting dinner. It should be noted that fabulously aromatic black truffles could be added accordingly for $45.00  per person. The delicious warm edam cheese souffle with fromage blanc sorbet should not be missed. Even the petits fours were noteworthy. Service was informed, efficient and very pleasant. There is a well-selected domestic-imported wine list with something for everyone, and a $35.00 corkage fee is charged if you bring your own wines. A 1990 Latour Chevalier Montrachet les Damoiselles and 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild in half bottle complemented our meal perfectly.

Cuisine=*(0-20) Ambiance=!(0-5) Price=$(Simple-Full)
Approximate Price per person excluding tax, beverage + tip=$. Simple=appetizer + main course; full= best available multi-course meal.

As We Like It has been serving the gastronomically enlightened community since 1989.

    San Francisco

    Katia’s, A Russian Tea Room*(15.5) !(3.0) $(18-44) 415-668-9292  katias.com.  600 5th Avenue at Balboa. Lunch 11:30-2:30 Wed.-Fri. Dinner from 5:00 P.M. Wed.-Sun.
    This is our favorite hide out for Russian cuisine. Their honest, simple food at reasonable prices has something for everybody. We love the traditional beet borsch and the beef or mushroom piroshki to start. They serve fabulous blini with high quality Norwegian smoked salmon, pickled herring and salmon caviar; we actually preferred to bring our own caviar and Champagne (Pol Roger 1995) to complement everything. Have a few shared entrees of shashlik (leg of lamb strips fried in a skillet) and beef Stroganoff with basmati rice before going on to a scrumptious Napoleon, toothsome blinchiki or delicious chocolate-walnut meringue torte. Remember to have some of their fine tea-in-a-glass. It can be difficult to find a parking place, so come early.